Author Topic: Automotive Coils  (Read 8130 times)

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meangenejr

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Automotive Coils
« on: December 23, 2005, 10:37:42 AM »
   Several years ago, I remember reading in some publication about wiring automotive coils into motorcycles. I understand enough to know that it can be done electrically but about impedences of the coils?? Are they compatible?  Does anyone have any experience with this? I also heard somewhere about making up braided plug wires (no crossfire!) aka aircraft wires. Anyone?

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2005, 11:44:29 AM »
Aircraft wires are braided (sheilded) to reduce or eliminate RFI (Radio Frequency Interferance).  This is rather important as this interference would have an impact on airborne navigation and communication, as well as the stereo headsets.

Crossfire issues would be a wire insulation defect.   Shielding would, I suppose, reduce crossfire.  However, if the insulation broke down, the shielding, which should be grounded, would simply divert energy away from the the spark gap of the plug.

As to automotive coils.  Yes, they can be made to work.  But, there are thousands of design examples out there.  There are also many methods of triggering the coils, and that is where the impedance issue come in.  Could you be more specific?

Most of the auto coils I'm familiar with are single output types rather than the dual output ones used on the SOHC4.  Since the SOHC4 lacks a spark distributor, you would have to adapt one or use four individual auto coils, with a coresponding weight and space penalty.

It might be better to state what your goals are and what you wish to accomplish.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Objectionableone

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2005, 02:09:04 PM »
I've seen some guys use auto coils on two stroke Yamaha's, takes a bit of work though

meangenejr

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2005, 03:10:20 PM »
   In response to TwoTired Response: Since two cylinders fire at once, those coils are wired together. You would have four coils total. Do you see what I'm getting at?
   Older motorcycles biggest weakness is the ignition system. The alternators have minimal output and so do the coils. An automotive alternator transplant would be more difficult than a coil transplant but could be possible to accomplish also.
   I'm not trying to necessarily accomplish anything more than a mental exercise to see if anyone has any thoughts on the subject.
   Does anyone know what the impedence of automotive coils are? Are they close enough to bike coils to be utilized?
 

cd811

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2005, 12:50:59 PM »
like others have said, the problem is ya can't find coils with 2 towers at NAPA...then if you really look hard and find them, they'll  cost more than some good Dyna coils.

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2005, 04:22:01 PM »
   In response to TwoTired Response: Since two cylinders fire at once, those coils are wired together. You would have four coils total. Do you see what I'm getting at?
   Older motorcycles biggest weakness is the ignition system. The alternators have minimal output and so do the coils. An automotive alternator transplant would be more difficult than a coil transplant but could be possible to accomplish also.
   I'm not trying to necessarily accomplish anything more than a mental exercise to see if anyone has any thoughts on the subject.
   Does anyone know what the impedence of automotive coils are? Are they close enough to bike coils to be utilized?
 

One coil per spark plug method.
The stock SOHC4 coils have four connections and two windings, primary and secondary.  The primaries are where the low voltage from the points are supplied.  This is usually the impedance or resistance referred to with coils and determines how much current is going to drawn by the coils during operation.  The coil's triggering device must be able to handle the demands of the coil primary.  The secondary's two output wires attach to a spark plug each.  The spark gap characteristics of both spark plugs determine the voltage needed for both to bridge the gap.  As they are wired in series, both must have met the conditions before either can fire.

The automotive coils I'm thinking about, also have four connections.  But, not all of the connections are exposed externally.   This limits applicability for other installations.   Sometimes a primary and secondary connection are tied together and commonized to ground.  No big woop on the primary, same triggering considerations apply.  However, that arangement only leaves one spark plug connection.  If this single output is divided into two and subsequently connected to two plugs, only one may fire unless the spark gap conditions are EXACTLY the same, which is highly improbable.  A sparking plug represents a short circuit to the coils output energy.  If one plug needs a higher voltage to spark than the other, the one with the lower requirements dumps the energy before the other can spark. 
This is true with the standard points type triggering system.  The parrallel ourput scheme may possibly work with other methods of triggering the primary that don't rely on the energy stored in the coils to develop voltage at the spark gap.  There are many different kinds of these, but they don't appear on the stock SOHC4. 

A coil per cylinder method.
First drawback is the weight and space penalty.  Ignoring that...
Assuming the same points type triggering?  This is a key assumption.
High output voltage coils usually have a lower resistance primary.  This is because in order to develop higher voltage for the 12 v electrical system the truns ratio of the coil must be larger.  Adding turns to the secondary also introduces wire resistance related energy losses.  Removing turns from the primary accomplishes the same ratio increase.  However, this reduces the resistance, and increases the current demands from the triggering device.  I haven't calculated what the change should be, but the condenser or capacitor value used to reduce arcing should also be changed. The points will, nevertheless, increase their heating from such an application.  To the points further detriment, we would need to drive two coils from the same points set.  This will double the current the contacts have to handle leading to further heating and shortened life.  To maintain 12v to each coil primary they would have to be wired in parrallel (double current).  You could halve the current by wiring in series, but each coild would then receive only 6V, halving the coutput voltage.

Perhaps now you understand why I asked previously about the triggering method. The coil is only one part of the ignition system.  If you intend to use the points, do you care about their durability?  They will trigger automotive coils, for a while anyway.  You can measure the primary resistance of the coil with an ohmmeter.  The stock SOHC4 coils are about 5 ohms.  At 12V, the points routinely handle 2.4 amps,  3 ohm primaries would require a switch capable of 4 amps, 2 ohm primaries, 6 amps.  Ohms law:  I=E/R.  Two high output coils in parrallel  could require 12 amp switched handling.  I'm thinking this shouldn't come through the stock ignition switch.

You still haven't identified the big weakness in the ignition system.  What is this big weakness you are trying to overcome?
If you had 100Kv going to the spark gap, what benefit to you envision this would have?

Do you want a larger spark gap?
Do you want to eliminate points adjustment/life?

I'd sure like a description of the specific goals you are trying to achieve.  Do you have some auto coils laying around looking for a home?

Cheers,


Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Bodi

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2005, 07:19:13 PM »
The only sheilded spark plug wires I've seen are on military engines made to run underwater; this was pretty common and they would either use a "fording kit" with an air snorkel or have the engine air intake on the dashboard where the driver could see if the water level was about to drown the engine. These cables only worked with special coils, distributors, and spark plugs that included a waterproof coaxial connector; they look more like lengths of iron pipe that what we would rcognize as a spark plug.
Extraordinary care would need to be taken to avoid any sharp ends on the shielding at both ends if you tried to do it yourself, otherwise the charge concentration at the sharp points would cause arcing very quickly.
You could use two 6V auto coils in series for each cyllinder pair if you really like automotive coils. I can't see any good reason to, Dyna coils fit in the available space and work very well. I've never had a crossfire problem with a SOHC4, mostly the wires get degraded at the plug end and after cutting the end off for a clean connection the wire is a bit too short - plus Honda used non-replaceable wires on most of these bikes (although you can substitute coils from other bikes (DOHC4 and GL1000 I think) that have terminal towers allowing HV cable replacement).

Offline jbailey

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2005, 08:37:00 PM »
I have a '99 Saturn SL.  It uses two coils with four wires.  Esenially the same as the Honda ignition.  It is a relatively small coil pack and could probably be mounted under the tank.  They can probably be purchased used at a junk yard.  I believe all the S series saturns used the same coil pack.  I have no clue what the primary resistance is.
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meangenejr

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #8 on: December 25, 2005, 04:18:58 PM »
   Thanks to all for your input. As I said before, it is a mental exercise more than an attempt to use auto coils. I like to throw things out there and see what responses come back.
   What about the use of auto alternators on bikes? Remove and replace into same location to shaft with new cover? This would give additional output and enable the auto coils and thus give the bike a muck hotter ignition! Most older bikes could sure use it.
   Keep in mind this is a mental exercise to see what people think is do-able and what is not. I am not trying to accomplish anything as some of you seem to think.

eldar

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #9 on: December 26, 2005, 08:21:11 AM »
I would do what jbailey suggested. There are enough saturn s cars in junk that you should be able to find something. They WILL have a higher output than the stock coils and if are the size he says, should work ok as long as ohms are not extremely low or high.
It is always nice to see what works or might work.

Offline oldbiker

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #10 on: December 27, 2005, 02:10:34 AM »
MandP Motorcycle Stores list acoil (3ohm) which they describe as for Suzuki gs models. It costs £25 ($44) and would be suitable for the CB if you can't get the correct thing.

Offline kpier883

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Re: Automotive Coils --Help needed
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2007, 07:56:53 AM »
Well, I was hoping this thread would help me.  I am running on two cylinders only.  I am about 700 miles from my destination today.  The CB750 dropped the center two cylinders. 

I have been to two  motorcycle shops but haven't had any luck finding replacement coils.  I have stopped at an auto repair shop and picked up two old coils from 4 cylinder cars.  They are of two different types.  Both have two spark plug wires exiting, just like motorcycle coils.  One has two wires input, the other has three.  I have some pigtails and am thinking of connecting my wires and see what happens.

Has anyone found an automotive coil that works on the dyna ignition - something I could get at an auto parts store??:

I  stopped at a Toyota dealership and posted this message
 I have the address for another motorcycle shop and am heading there.  I will check for answers when I can find internet access again.   

Help if you can because I am a long way from home right now.

Thanks - Kirk
74 CB750
80 CBX
82 KZ1000 K2 (LTD)
57 1/2 ton chevy

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2007, 08:14:58 AM »
Why is it you think the coils are bad and not the Dyna?
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline dusterdude

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2007, 09:20:05 AM »
if anyone is interested in the round style automotive coil for your bike,go to a aftermarket harley shop and buy 2 coils for a harley.the aftermarket makes chrome round coils for them that have the 2 leads for the plug wires.
mark
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Offline super pasty white guy

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #14 on: October 18, 2007, 09:24:07 AM »
where are you at?  a member may be around to help.

Can't help with the automotive question, but you could probably go with older goldwing, or DOHC coils as well-  Especially given the situation.

Dave
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Offline OldSchool_IsCool

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #15 on: October 18, 2007, 11:42:35 AM »
Why is it you think the coils are bad and not the Dyna?

May want to swap the yellow wire with the blue, the #1 and #2 plug wires and #3 & #4 wires.  This will in essence swap your coils.  If the center two jugs continue to not fire, then it's the ignition module, if the fault moves to the ourside, then it's most likely the coil.

Have you checked all your wires to make sure there isn't a simple disconnect or pinch causing the trigger signal to not make it to the coil?
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Offline kpier883

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #16 on: October 19, 2007, 12:48:24 PM »
Well, I found a coil at a salvage yard and was on the road by 2:00 PM yesterday.  Worked out well really, as a cold front had time to pass ahead of me and leave me out of the rain and in the cool dry air that is behind the front.  Hail, rain etc is all well ahead of me and will clear by the time I get where I am going. 

I will post the salvage yard name in a later post.

I still want to learn more about the auto options.  I have seen one that looks like it would work, based on the conections.  However, I don't know how they are "triggered".  Will coils from CDI systems - "Capacitive Discharge" work with the Dyna?

I did find that one of the wires to the coil that wasn't functioning was bare, and taped it with some black tape.  Once I get home I will test the "bad" coil now that the wire has been repaired. 
74 CB750
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Offline MoTo-BunnY

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #17 on: October 19, 2007, 02:02:56 PM »
Here is an article on using auto coils with cycles I uploaded some time ago - its in .pdf format.  enjoy!  ;D

Using 4 Car Coils on a Bike - CYCLE - AUG 1977.pdf

---> instagram.com/moto_bunny# <---

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hoppin' on down the bunny trail . . .

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Offline SohcCBs

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #18 on: October 19, 2007, 07:06:30 PM »
   Several years ago, I remember reading in some publication about wiring automotive coils into motorcycles. I understand enough to know that it can be done electrically but about impedences of the coils?? Are they compatible?  Does anyone have any experience with this? I also heard somewhere about making up braided plug wires (no crossfire!) aka aircraft wires. Anyone?

I used to use big Delco automotive coils in my Britts.  I used the ones with built in ballast so I also got rid of the (little) condensors, too....but I put them in the battery box after installing a capacitor and removing the battery (can't do that without solid magnets in the alternator). 
Auto coils are bigger and take up lots of room.

Offline kpier883

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #19 on: October 19, 2007, 08:02:00 PM »
Look at this.  Says it fits:
GM  10457109, 10472748, 10474481, D-547, D-550, D-583 
Buick '88-'98
Chevrolet '90-'98
Oldsmobile '87-'98
Pontiac '88-'99
http://www.enginesworld.com/autoparts/ignitioncoil/dry/gm.htm
go to the bottom of the page.

I am wondering if these sorts of coils would work?


74 CB750
80 CBX
82 KZ1000 K2 (LTD)
57 1/2 ton chevy

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #20 on: October 19, 2007, 08:07:00 PM »
Here is an article on using auto coils with cycles I uploaded some time ago - its in .pdf format.  enjoy!  ;D

Using 4 Car Coils on a Bike - CYCLE - AUG 1977.pdf



Good one, M-Bunny! Better get an add-on alternator for those, I think....

It would have been more impressive, though, if he could have spelled "resistor" correctly at lleast once in the article....

This whole topic may just drive me forward on my "1-coil-per-cylinder" adaptation of my electronic ignition module (yes, I'm talking about a sneak preview here, for all you Hondaman Ignition owners...  ;)  ). This is a possible add-on improvement for my now-famous-only-here ignition, with the intent of raising spark voltage on these bikes by using some recent Ford technology, thereby putting my two favorite brands together.  ;D
---And, to give hope to those of you with the CB500/550/400F/350F with alternators that barely make the "headlights on" grade.

This is also the first step toward the EFI portion of this same project (for those of you who are nudging me about it...but, that part is after my tranny rebuild, which will begin Monday nite...).
See SOHC4shop.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

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Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
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Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

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Link to website: https://sohc4shop.com/  (Note: no longer at www.SOHC4shop.com, moved off WWW. in 2024).

Offline kpier883

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #21 on: October 19, 2007, 08:08:46 PM »
Or this:

74 CB750
80 CBX
82 KZ1000 K2 (LTD)
57 1/2 ton chevy

Offline kpier883

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #22 on: October 19, 2007, 09:13:33 PM »
And finally, this which sells for 75 bucks U.S. and is for a Ford Thunderbird 4 cylinder and appears to only use one coil for 4 cylinders.  There appear to be 3 leads going to it.  I would guess there would be one ground and two igniter pulse wires.  Beauty of this (if it would fit) is that you could get a replacement at any FLAPs in just about any town in America - even if there wasn't a motorcyle shop in the town...  Of course the downside is that you might lose all four cylinders at once if it failed. 
74 CB750
80 CBX
82 KZ1000 K2 (LTD)
57 1/2 ton chevy

Offline SohcCBs

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #23 on: October 19, 2007, 10:04:52 PM »
And finally, this which sells for 75 bucks U.S. and is for a Ford Thunderbird 4 cylinder and appears to only use one coil for 4 cylinders.  There appear to be 3 leads going to it.  I would guess there would be one ground and two igniter pulse wires.  Beauty of this (if it would fit) is that you could get a replacement at any FLAPs in just about any town in America - even if there wasn't a motorcyle shop in the town...  Of course the downside is that you might lose all four cylinders at once if it failed. 

Voltage output is easy to match....30k to 40k, but you'll need to match the ohms.....'round 3ohms for the Dyna and 4.5 to 5 for regular points.


Offline mark

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Re: Automotive Coils
« Reply #24 on: October 20, 2007, 12:27:47 AM »
Here's another one:

Fits a lot of late-80s to mid-90s GM 4 and 6 cyl. $20-50 at the parts store.
These coils sit on the module - primary connections by 2 blade terminals pushed in back. Minor mounting issues due to location of terminals:

Unlike the 3 coils shown above, these use fairly normal plug wire ends. Like the other 3, modern Distributorless Ignition System coils all, they have a primary resistance of about 0.5 ohm. oops.

Add a ballast resistor, perhaps?

my 2 cents.

Happy trails.

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F you mark...... F you.