Topic: Caliper brake lube

[SHELLFISH]

I have had a long running problem with the front brake caliper not retracting after application. This has always been remedied by removing the caliper piston and cleaning everything. This will last for about a year when it needs to be done agin. I have a 1976 CB550F bought new.
I have asked the dealer mechanics and bike mechanics about this chronic problem and all I ever got was that blank stare like deer in the headlights. The Honda repair manual talks about greasing the back of the pads and the caliper housing but they don't tell you with what and their parts department has never heard of such a grease! I finally got tired of this constant problem and performed a Google search which led me here.

In the brake FAQ section it is said to use Dow Corning High Vacume Silicone Grease ($16.34).

I found also that Permatex has recently offered their Ceramic Extreme Brake Lube (part #24125).
They state that it has a melting point of around 2800 degrees F which exceeds the Dow Corning grease. That should certainly halt migration of the grease. It is available in a blister pack for small quantities or an 8 ounce bottle ($16.94).

[Yoshi823]

I googled Lockheed brake seal grease to find the stuff that we use over here...otherwise known as Lucas PFG102, which is red coloured seal grease....recommended.

[MCRider]

I have had a long running problem with the front brake caliper not retracting after application. This has always been remedied by removing the caliper piston and cleaning everything. This will last for about a year when it needs to be done agin. I have a 1976 CB550F bought new.
I have asked the dealer mechanics and bike mechanics about this chronic problem and all I ever got was that blank stare like deer in the headlights. The Honda repair manual talks about greasing the back of the pads and the caliper housing but they don't tell you with what and their parts department has never heard of such a grease! I finally got tired of this constant problem and performed a Google search which led me here.

In the brake FAQ section it is said to use Dow Corning High Vacume Silicone Grease ($16.34).

I found also that Permatex has recently offered their Ceramic Extreme Brake Lube (part #24125).
They state that it has a melting point of around 2800 degrees F which exceeds the Dow Corning grease. That should certainly halt migration of the grease. It is available in a blister pack for small quantities or an 8 ounce bottle ($16.94).

I am flabbergasted that the dealers are so clueless, this is a well documented problem here. But I know they are.

While you have been lucky to get some relief in cleaning the caliper, the problem almost always lies with the return hole in the master cyulinder. I would direct your attention to that. remove the lid from the reservoir, pull the lever in slowly and release it slowly. You should see a gurgle of fluid come back into the reservoir indicating that you have pumped some fluid out to engage the brake and some fliuid is returning as you release the lever and the puck should be withdrawing from the disc.

Do a search on master cylinder rebuild and related topics.

These little return holes get plugged with debris from the ages. They can often be cleared with a fine wire like from an electric cord.

Hope that's your problem. When it is, and it is addressed, your brakes will return to acceptable operating condition.

With the lid off the reservoir, the SLOWLY is important as you can pump fluid out onto your tank if you are forceful. Hold a rag around the reservoir while doing it.

[SHELLFISH]

Thanks for the replies! As I said this has been a chronic problem that I want to leave on the trail behind me!

I will try your suggestions. Thanks again.

I was just impressed with the melting temperature of the Permatex at 2800 F!

[Industrial Cafe]

These little return holes get plugged with debris from the ages. They can often be cleared with a fine wire like from an electric cord.

that and-
they have the grease you seek at the counter of advance auto parts.

[SHELLFISH]

Thanks! I'll look at Advance AP.

[MCRider]

Thanks for the replies! As I said this has been a chronic problem that I want to leave on the trail behind me!

I will try your suggestions. Thanks again.

I was just impressed with the melting temperature of the Permatex at 2800 F!

Another way to test it is to simply swap master cylinders with one you know is good. New aftermarket ones can be had for less than $80.

Its a chronic problem you should not have. THese systmes work perfectly well when all parts are working. If your caliper is as clean as you say, that should be clean enough.

And a clean, properly lubed (with the greases mentioned) caliper is necessary as you have to eliminate the variables.

That's pretty cool that you are the only owner of a 76 550F!

[Yoshi823]

Sold the 1976 CB550F last year as the wife no longer found it easy to ride anymore (bad back).

[SHELLFISH]

Advance Auto Parts in Danbury CT didn't have the grease.

Sorry you had to sell your 550F. They're a great little bike!

[Yoshi823]

The 550F2 was a bit big for the missus & she had problems moving it about by herself...so it had to go as a friend of a friend offered me a ridiculous amount of money so I said yes. Oh well, I still have the photos...

[Industrial Cafe]

If she still wants to ride she might like a little CB350four.
they're light, small, and tons of fun!

[Toxic]

in addition... make sure to replace your caliper "O" ring. It's a six dollar part and you have everything apart.

The groove it sits in should be spotless.  Any build up in this groove will result in the piston not retracting like it should.

[mgbgt89]

If she still wants to ride she might like a little CB350four.
they're light, small, and tons of fun!

+1. I had no idea such a small, slow bike could be so much fun. It's an absolute blast. Most fun you can have with your pants on.

[fasturd]

The main reason dealers are clueles now days is every modern caliper has weather seals and silicone grease is now longer considered the PRIMARY seal against debris. But it is critical to all these early Honda calipers as it is the primary seal. The silicone is the first defense to keep crud and moisture away from the piston seal. Get the caliper groove clean, press your seal in and lube every thing up with a little silicone grease. Slather it on the piston and push it in. The seal will wipe it off and keep a nice stash in the gap between the caliper body and the piston.
As stated earlier it is critical that the master is working properly too. The two bleed holes MUST be clean.
Unless the rubber bits are destroyed I re-use them. Seals last almost forever for some reason and I have had better luck with the original master parts than I have had with aftermarket kits. Honda kits are awesome however.

Last but not least the caliper swing arm MUST be clean and free to swing back and forth.

After all that you will be suprised at how well the brakes will work.

Good luck.

[DukieFrankenkit]

No, you don't want silicone grease mixing with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, big no no.

You only want to lube up the piston for insertion with brake part assembly fluid.

[axehole54]

May sound like a dumb question from a newbie but where do you get the o-ring for the piston and brake assembly lube? never heard of it where do you get that?

[Industrial Cafe]

there's this new website called eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-BRAKE-LUBE-ANTI-SIEZE-LUBE-AUTO-BODY-SHOP-SUPPLIES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19b5842de7QQitemZ110419520999QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

[axehole54]

Thanks that was extremely helpful... and sarcastic I couldn't have put it beter myself

[Industrial Cafe]