Author Topic: Polishing engine covers (Read 6555 times)

Johnie · « **Reply #25 on:** January 17, 2010, 08:09:51 PM »

Cliff...yes, I used the red paint pen on my switch lettering.

Scott...I get my hex bolts from www.stainlesscycle.com They are on eBay and cost $30 + $6 shipping. I also was thinking about keeping the screw look but decided these look great and I was not looking for 100% concourse restore.

I do not clear my parts after polishing. Mainly because it is much easier to touch them up without having clear in the way. It is personal preference.

sbparks · « **Reply #26 on:** January 17, 2010, 08:43:12 PM »

Johnnie,

Thanks for the website link. I'm probably going to order.

Did you use the polished kit? The site is listing a kit for $24.00 + shipping.

Thanks!

Magpie · « **Reply #27 on:** January 17, 2010, 09:44:00 PM »

Thanks Ilbikes and Johnie - good stuff. Johnie, unfortuately there's "bolt bastards" around here. "Aren't those supposed to be phillips screws?" when they see the hex heads on my K1's. It really gets me angry so I'm going to go stock screws on my latest build. And, they know I'm mad.

Cliff.

Johnie · « **Reply #28 on:** January 18, 2010, 04:42:26 AM »

Scott...I did not use the polishing kit. Once you get the polished covers and the hex bolts together they compliment each other. Seems the nice polished covers make those hex bolt shine real nice. I did not feel the need to spend the time polishing each bolt. But again, it is personal preference.

wardenerd · « **Reply #29 on:** January 18, 2010, 12:15:24 PM »

Well I drilled out the screws on the stator cove and the points cover and changed those to allen screws . It took a while. Is it normal for the parts inside the stator cover to be rusty? Good thing I did this as the stator was loose and the windings on the inside of the cover were barely together . All the screws were loose. Next stop case covers with the impact tool

Johnie · « **Reply #30 on:** January 18, 2010, 02:09:28 PM »

Never had any rust in my stator covers. Just clean it out as best you can and it should be OK.

Blackhorse · « **Reply #31 on:** January 18, 2010, 04:56:02 PM »

Quote from: Ilbikes on January 17, 2010, 10:43:11 AM

4) Bufffer speed is really optimum at 1,700~1,800 rpm. I've had the cheap Harbor Freight buffers and their 3,600 rpm - they are a disaster and I DO NOT recommend them. First they are unsafe - they will throw parts at a very high speed and have bitten me more than once. 3,600 rpm is fine for a bench grinder, but not a buffer. Go with a 1,700 or 1,800 rpm buffer. I like my 1 horse power one with 10" wheels and 36" wide shaft. It give me plenty of power, the right speed, and lots of room to work the parts easily. This was less than $300 shipped with the wide buffs and compound blocks.

Gordon,

I've seen expensive buffers in the 3400 - 3600 rpm range so I don't think motor rpm relates to a buffer being cheap or ineffective. I also have a 6" Harbor Freight unit and have quite a bit of success with smaller parts being polished effectively.

Your thoughts
Pete

RRRToolSolutions · « **Reply #32 on:** January 18, 2010, 05:17:52 PM »

Pete, go to the link and give Skip a call. He told me that aluminum should be 1,700~1,800 rpm - it produces the right amount of heat and will not sling the compound off. I have used both and will say for sure that a part getting caught in a 3,600 rpm is a deadly projectile. The slower speed is not nearly as violent. Also, I don't get anywhere near the dust/lint/or sling-off with the new 1,750 rpm buffer as I did with the 3,600.

Skip sells both, but I followed his advice and bought his aluminum set-up.

Regards,
Gordon

greenjeans · « **Reply #33 on:** January 19, 2010, 07:06:05 AM »

Gordon has hit the nail on the head. I have a local distributor (Buff Polish and Grind) that gave me almost identical instructions when bought
my wheels from him & compounds.

The cheap machines will work - I've used them. But the right set-up WILL yield better and significantly faster results.

Another easy tip.... buy a bunch of wheels and double them up to do the bigger wider stuff.

The_Crippler · « **Reply #34 on:** January 19, 2010, 08:40:54 AM »

Wow...A lot of drool-worthy polish jobs in here...

ANVkevin · « **Reply #35 on:** January 19, 2010, 02:06:59 PM »

Makes me want to get off my arse and start polishing. They all look great! ...too bad they're all fake!

Magpie · « **Reply #36 on:** January 19, 2010, 02:10:02 PM »

Fake?

Cliff.

dagersh · « **Reply #37 on:** January 19, 2010, 02:45:35 PM »

Don't go there!!!

Gordon and Greenjeans have it right. Use the right buffer, and separate wheels for each compound. Also, I like to use a loose sewn wheel for my Jeweler's Rouge (White Compound).

Some pics:

Johnie · « **Reply #38 on:** January 19, 2010, 03:01:18 PM »

I like the idea of putting a couple wheels on the shaft. Never heard that one before, but I will try it. The results you guys have there are great.

SHELLFISH · « **Reply #39 on:** January 19, 2010, 07:41:12 PM »

Beautiful aluminum polishing! I just looked at the Baldor polishers on line.
Tar heels does not list prices but prices must have gone up a bit!
3/4 hp...$400.00, 1 hp.....$565.00!

I don't know what speeds the Harbor freight ($49.00) or Sears ($99.00) run at but the prices are more in line with my wallet!

Decisions, decisions...what to do?

dagersh · « **Reply #40 on:** January 19, 2010, 08:06:04 PM »

Johnie,

Doubling up is really great, especially for big sidecovers. It also helps keep the temps up, so everything happens more efficiently.

Shellfish,

I don't know what they run at either, but maybe try Ebay or CL? Also, maybe try to hook up a dimmer switch to lower the RPM's if they are running too fast.

HTH

Gersh

RRRToolSolutions · « **Reply #41 on:** January 20, 2010, 07:06:51 AM »

Guys, talk to Skip about the Jet - mine was 1/2 the price of a Baldor. The Jet has a 1" shaft, 1,750 rpm, 1 horsepower! You will not stall this buffer!! It has an over-load circuit that automatically kicks in if the amps go up, has a 36" wide span and you can put 10 buff pads on there if you want - it comes with the collars and spacers for that purpose. Skip shipped it to me with all the buffs and compounds for around $300 - less than I was going to pay for 1 bike's covers. It does weigh 80 pounds without the stand, do not let your clothes or hair get into it - 1 horsepower will eat you and spit you out. - it's no toy. I bought it because that local shop I told you about early in the thread that was backed-up has been using one professionslly for 2 years and not a single failure. He'll use his more in 1 week than I'll use it in a lifetime. The Jet works for me.

Regards,
Gordon

The_Crippler · « **Reply #42 on:** January 20, 2010, 09:31:38 AM »

Quote from: dagersh on January 19, 2010, 02:45:35 PM

Don't go there!!!

Now I'm curious...

But seriously, they all look great.

SHELLFISH · « **Reply #43 on:** January 20, 2010, 01:24:01 PM »

That Jet does look good! I'll check into them. I have also looked at Eastwood buffers . A 3/4 hp is $260.00. ! hp is $329.00. They also carry Baldor buffers 3/4 hp for $499.00.
Too much money for how often I will use it after I get the main jobs out of the way.
I'm wondering if Makita makes a buffer? I have a lot of their power tools and never had a problem.

Johnie · « **Reply #44 on:** January 20, 2010, 02:27:48 PM »

You guys make a lot of great sense on the quality of the buffers. They are very nice. I bought a Sears Craftsman back in 2007 and use the red, green and white rouge with dedicated buffing wheels. I have been very happy with my results. I just could not afford a $300 unit at the time. I have used it on three of my 750's to date. Am doing the K4 at the moment. Below you can see the fork on the left is before I started and the one on the right is after the green rouge. Huge difference.

Really? · « **Reply #45 on:** January 20, 2010, 03:15:18 PM »

I polished momma's bike with the HF buffer and I was happy with the results of most of what I had done. I think mine ran about $28 - on sale and use a 20% coupon.

SHELLFISH · « **Reply #46 on:** January 20, 2010, 03:20:18 PM »

The cheapest Jet I could find on line was $259.00 1 hp.
Proably what I'll go for. The spread between buffers is 36". The rest are 26" or there abouts.

RRRToolSolutions · « **Reply #47 on:** January 20, 2010, 04:40:21 PM »

Guys, I still am not seeing chrome-like results with these high-speed buffers. Do many of the parts shown have chrome-like finishes? Take a look at these covers and compare the polished aluminum sprocket cover to the chromed chainguard and shocks - this is the result of using the right speed, right heat, and keeping those flannel buff wheels absolutely and perfectly clean. You will not get this is you let the brown compound transfer to the final buff.

I'm not showing these to say "mines better", I'm saying that if you want that extra "pop" you must have the right tool. I would never have been able to get this with my other buffing equipment. I did the sporcket cover - I did not do the cylinders, head, or stator cover - those were done by my local shop, but no more - I'm moving to a new standard

Regards,
Gordon

Blackhorse · « **Reply #48 on:** January 20, 2010, 07:41:37 PM »

Quote from: SHELLFISH on January 20, 2010, 03:20:18 PM

The cheapest Jet I could find on line was $259.00 1 hp.
Proably what I'll go for. The spread between buffers is 36". The rest are 26" or there abouts.

Found JEt JSB-10L for $197.57 here:
http://www.all2ools.com/index.pl/froogle?productid=JET/JSB-10L

News:

Author Topic: Polishing engine covers (Read 6555 times)