Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Hopefully Good!?

[SKTP]

New guy asks: Are all the side covers and cases clear coated?

[MCRider]

New guy asks: Are all the side covers and cases clear coated?

The sidecovers (engine) are, incl the rocker box, but the cases themselves are just paint, no clear.

[SKTP]

So I got my cases "parts-washed" to take off the grime...there were really gross I spent about 4 hours with a spray bottle of Simple Green and a tooth brush and was not happy with the results I was getting...so 60 bucks later (also did my block and oil pan)...I am happy

I could not get that pin out that holds in the kick-started and I left that big bearing in...Will there be any kick issues? (I barely ever used it anyways)

as for the bearing, I should be able to spin it with my fingers right? It seems to be seized. Any special trick to popping that baby out. I was planning on smacking it but thought I'd ask first in case there's a chance of damaging the case?

Here's a before and after of the cleaning and the bearing in question...Painting soon then it will actually start going back together!

Before:

After:



bearing:


So chains and tensioners...they are expensive. Does anybody just sell the rubber wheels (on the tensioners) OEM? or do I have to buy 50 and 70 parts?

$200 seems to me the going rate for Primary chains. Do you agree? Are all years chains the same?

thanks SOHCers!

[MCRider]

I'm 99% sure the primary chains are priced as a pair. $100 pair, not each. Yamiya has them for $70.50 pr.  I'll email them to confirm the "pair" issue.  Its not clear on various fishies, as they call for quantity of 2, but many people here have said they get 2 in the box when ordered for the sub-$100 price.

Should help the budget.

[SKTP]

That is excellent news, thanks!

[MCRider]

That is excellent news, thanks!

here's the response I got from Yamiya to the question are the chains priced individually or as a pair:

"Dear sir,

Thank you for your inquiry.

CHAIN, PRIMARY (68L TAKASAGO)E041 is the price of the pair of a photograph.
It is US$60.62 today.

Best regards
***********************************
CB750K series Motorcycle Specialty store
MOTORCYCLE YAMIYA
order@yamiya750.com
2-18-7KAMEJIMA NAKAMURA-KU
NAGOYA-CITY AICHI-KEN JAPAN
http://www.yamiya750.com"

Broken English. "of a photograph" should be "in the photograph" in their catalog. Pretty nice price, must be an exchange rate thing. FYI: I just noticed my credit card charges me a fee for the international transaction. Still Yamiya's service and often their prices make the fee nominal. I get parts from them in 3 days, quicker than many US suppliers.

[SKTP]

Thanks very much for this info...greatly appreciated

now if only there was a magic fin-cleaning machine....

[MCRider]

Thanks very much for this info...greatly appreciated

now if only there was a magic fin-cleaning machine....

I got a set of metal (brass and steel combos) tube brushes (about 2-3 inches long where the brush part is, about 8 to 10 inches altogether, various small diameters.)  from Harbor Freight, cut the handles down short (with sidecuts) and chucked them into a variable speed cordless drill. Then run them into the fins from all angles. Scrubs them down pretty good, blow out with air. You'll get a lot of crud out. I used up the whole set of brushes about $10 worth. Ready for paint after an acetone wash.

[wannabridin]

i remember you posting you've done this before.  thanks for letting us know again!  SUCH good advice!!!

[motocyconomad]

i need to try it!!!

[SKTP]

Slowest teardown ever is almost complete...



All that is left to rip apart are:
-fork legs
-swingarm bushings
-oil pump

then the putting together begins!

<edit> crap! I forgot about the carbs...saving those for last.

<edit#2> Head rebuilding...its a stock bike and so far I have left the head/valves alone. Are there any "MUSTS" I should do to the valves while I'm in there. I figure cleaning but other than that, if its stock, is there much point to new valve spring,guides, etc...? before the tranny went it'd cruise around 100-110mph all day long.

[SKTP]

Well the funds are low and I am saving for new Primary and Cam Chains so work has slowed down a little...but then I remembered polishing and sanding are almost free so I am back to the cleaning polishing grind...I hope to paint my cases painted this week...Airplane stripper fun! here's some thrilling parts cleaning pictures to try to keep my build thread alive. I am also starting to think that for the price of OEM rings I should just save some more and go for the 836 bore out...How much difference does 100cc's make (gas mileage, off the line, top speed)?...let me know 836cc owners...would you eve go back to 733cc?

These all use to be black...the shifter drum will flash rust FAST!


The shifter cover is the easiest piece to polish so far, hands down...this is just after 400 grit...still a long way to go


I have found that a cloth wheel on the dremel works pretty well for buffing...these shots are all 400 grit then demel buffed...I think I will still go to 1000 grit but to get a "preview" I do a quick buff....However I melted the switch on the dremel (knock-off) and had to hotwire it

[SKTP]

So I turned my grinder sideways and removed the guard, a trip to Sears later for 2 cloth wheels (about 10 bucks) I have myself a buffer...I used red rouge and still have to go over everythinq with the softer stuff and a new clean wheel. But overall I am very happy with the results. sanded 400, 800, 100 then buffed...still more parts to do but the result is so worth it...

I might have to re-sand and rebuff some areas (man that valve cover is hard to work on)...I might look into something like this:

http://www.bettymills.com/shop/product/view/3M%20Abrasive/3MA405-048011-09548.html?source=froogle2&utm_source=froogle2&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=parts&utm_keyword=3MA405-048011-09548&utm_content=Facility

to avoid all the sanding? Anybody used something similar?

[mrrch]

I painted my valve cover because it looked to hard to polish all the nooks & crannies. Everything else I would use paint stripper first then start polishing from there(my covers were not corroded real bad)
Polishing what fun

[Aladinsane07]

Everything is coming along really nicely.  That basket full of polished bits must feel great to see (even if your fingers are still bleeding).

[RAFster122s]

To get into the nooks and crannies you'll need a dremel sized polishing buffs. The wheel type you have on the grinder isn't what I would have used personally. I prefer the Spiral sewn cotton buffs for the cutting after sanding to 1000. IF you didn't sand the nooks and crannies you'll need to do them before polishing to save yourself some time with the buffer.
There are drill/die grinder polishing buffs that are felt bullet tips and the like and they can polish grooves and the like...just take a little longer because they are smaller.
Polishing parts with lots of nooks and crannies is time consuming and lots of people hit the high spots like you have on the valve cover and call it done. I wouldn't be happy until it was all highly polished and gleaming with those nice reflections.

You will want to clean it and clear coat it if you don't wish to have to have higher maintenance on the polished parts.
Especially those tough to reach ones when reinstalled on the bike.

Great work. Look forward to more photos and posts.

David

[SKTP]

Thanks for the buffing tips...

My frame got fixed yesterday and on the down side I got my first speeding ticket ever on my Ducati

Here's the pics of the frame repair (rust hole removal)







and here's the original hole and the first "quick-fix" when the bike was all still together and a daily driver





if all goes well, the frame should be nickel-plated by the end of the week!

[Syscrush]

if all goes well, the frame should be nickel-plated by the end of the week!

THAT is extremely exciting!!!!!! 

[Tintop]

if all goes well, the frame should be nickel-plated by the end of the week!

just make sure with the nickle plating, that who ever does it neutralizes the acid in the tubes very well.  one of the reasons there are so few good Rickman's around is because of nickle plating.  tubes rotted out from the inside from poor neutralizing.  there is a Rickman frame in the shop next door to be restored because of this.

[SKTP]

Turns it the plater who was going to give me a crazy good deal, tank is too small fir the frame to fit...going with powder coat

[SKTP]

Case Painting has begun....ran out of light so the bottom case and oil pan will have to be finished tonight after work











when I blow my nose, its black now! Good times....

Question: Those little rubber things between the fins, I ruined many of them removing them (didn't want them to get melted by the stripper) are they required? And if so, are they easy to come by?

[MCRider]

They keep the fins from singing. Not required, but if your bike seems oddly more noisy. Many bikes lost them years go to bead blasters, etc.  I don't think they are available as such.

[putnaja1]

Looking great, SKTP! 

[RAFster122s]

I was thinking you were going to clear coat the cases after polishing them. Sorry I misunderstood your point in polishing them was for a better (smoother, liquid looking) paint job if glossy paint is used.

If you have a high gloss on the valve covers it would be a nice contrast if that were clear coated with a good epoxy based UV stable clearcoat (think boats for a source, if it can handle the heat).

David

[SKTP]

here's the parts above un-taped. Yes that's a broken fin, but I figure nobody will ever see that one. I have no idea of how or when it broke?



Here's the lower case taping and painting, done last night...It turned out better than the top case. I wish I'd done them in the opposite order. I learned that you should not fill your hole with ripped up pieces of shop towels, tape balls work way better. The towels send little fibers allover when the spray hits them. Its not terrible, but the tape pugs worked perfectly. I'll take the tape off tonight after work. I really grew to love the dark actual case color...I'll miss it.