Even though this is getting a bit stale, thought I'd chime in here while the memory is fresh. In both my Haynes AND Honda 550 manuals, adjustment for the clutch is addressed in three places: at the bottom of the clutch cover, the clutch cable's bracketry/engagement arm, and up at the clutch lever. However, it's not said in which direction the screw at the bottom of the clutch cover should be turned to align the marks on the clutch cover and engagement arm. With different clutches and components and varying levels of wear, it's reasonable to argue it's possible to have your clutch adjusted properly and these won't line up.
Anyway, start by loosening all three adjustment positions at the lever, engagement arm, and the locknut/screw.
Bottom locknut and screw: For the CB550, you turn it as far as you can counter clockwise, then back it off maybe an 1/8 of a turn. I'm dead certain this is the case for the CB350s too. This will get you in the ballpark and the two marks on the clutch engagement arm should now be aligned or close to it, depending on the thickness of your clutch pack. Now you can go to adjusting the slack at the two locknuts above the engagement arm, then the handlebar lever to fine tune free play to 10-20mm.
I was at a members house and he described the same problem as you KB02, same symptoms. Very hard to get in gear, if at all, jumping into first, etc. Jogged my memory a bit and I remembered what I was doing wrong, as well as he up to this point. He'd simply followed his Chilton manual which specifically said to adjust that screw at the bottom of his clutch cover clockwise, which put it fully out of engagement. THE CLYMER WAS DEAD WRONG!! We went back the other way, locked it down, and followed the rest of the adjustment procedure.
I've never seen anyone address the sticky morning clutch thing either. I just pull in the clutch and rock the bike back two or three times and that usually breaks it free. Feel free to chime in if any of this is incorrect.