Topic: Neutral Switch Gasket

[Johnie]

My 750K4 is leaking at the neutral switch. I did check the FAQ and notice the OEM 18x3 metric gasket causes problems as it is to big per the FAQ. I was thinking of taking the one out of my K4 parts bike with 4,700 miles on it an putting that switch in there. Do you guys put any type of silcone or sealant on there before you put the switch back in? Any tips to remove or replace I should know about?
Thanks...

[Simpson]

When all fails Yamabond is your friend. 

[cookindaddy]

The o-ring is not too big.

The trick, if there is one, is to put the o-ring in the groove in the engine first, and then slide the neutral switch in. The switch body is tapered and it slides right in easily with no leaks.

If you put the o-ring on the switch first, it is almost impossible to get in and trying to force it in damages the o-ring.

That may be why yours is leaking? Use a new o-ring, or one that you have inspected to be undamaged and clean the groove.

[Johnie]

The o-ring is not too big.

The trick, if there is one, is to put the o-ring in the groove in the engine first, and then slide the neutral switch in. The switch body is tapered and it slides right in easily with no leaks.

If you put the o-ring on the switch first, it is almost impossible to get in and trying to force it in damages the o-ring.

That may be why yours is leaking? Use a new o-ring, or one that you have inspected to be undamaged and clean the groove.

Excellent point there. Did you use the 18x3 metric gasket from Honda? That is the one the FAQ said was to big. But maybe they did not place it in the groove and installed it on the switch which is why it seemed to big to them.

[mystic_1]

The trick, if there is one, is to put the o-ring in the groove in the engine first, and then slide the neutral switch in. The switch body is tapered and it slides right in easily with no leaks.

Agreed!  I just put in a neutral switch the other night, motor is apart on the bench and that makes it easier, but putting hte o-ring in first is definitely the way to go.

If you're working under an assembled bike and therefore upside-down, a clean the o-ring groove well and apply a little dab of grease, this will hold the o-ring in place while you plug in the neutral switch.

mystic_1

[Johnie]

The trick, if there is one, is to put the o-ring in the groove in the engine first, and then slide the neutral switch in. The switch body is tapered and it slides right in easily with no leaks.

Agreed!  I just put in a neutral switch the other night, motor is apart on the bench and that makes it easier, but putting hte o-ring in first is definitely the way to go.

If you're working under an assembled bike and therefore upside-down, a clean the o-ring groove well and apply a little dab of grease, this will hold the o-ring in place while you plug in the neutral switch.

mystic_1

Good idea mystic...did you use a new 18x3 OEM seal?

[cookindaddy]

I used the Honda o ring. I guess its 18x3, I bought it by part number - the official Honda part.

You don't even need to put grease on it since it holds itself in the groove nicely, even when the engine is in the frame. I think that the last time, I coated it with a bit of motor oil. Still stayed up in the groove.

Try it!

[Johnie]

Installation on the K4 went very well. I did have to remove HM341 pipe #1 to be able to get my #10 wrench on the bolt. The frame and other lower case bulges were in the way, but still pretty easy. You guys are correct, the O-ring held in nicely by the groove and it slid right in. This post should help first timers to realize it is an easy procedure if you put the O-ring in the groove before you slide the switch back in.

[andy750]

Ok searching through the archives for answers on my lack of neutral light I found this...excellent info if I need a new neutral light switch...my question is how do you know if its bad? I checked prices and they are like $53!

Here are my symptons:

1. Neutral light is not coming on. Its not the bulb and not the wiring in the headlight - checked both.

Anything else I can check before trying a new switch.

For installing a new one - do I just need to remove #1 pipe and then remove old switch with 10 mm socket? Is it that easy?

thanks
Andy

[scottly]

.my question is how do you know if its bad?

thanks
Andy

Check the switch with an ohm-meter, measuring from the terminal where the grn/red wire connects, to ground. You should have continuity, when in neutral, and read open when in gear.   

[andy750]

Thanks Scottly Ill give that a try. I also read more old threads on this for the last hour and its helped as well. I should have added my oil pressure light is also not coming on but this may be a coincidence. The common black wire appears to be in the right 4-way connector in the headlight and a spare 4-bulb connector (using the neutral light wires as a test) give the same negative result.

Ill get a multimeter and test further. Thank you.

Andy

[scottly]

Andy, the oil pressure switch is also connected to ground when there is no oil pressure, so it may not be a coincidence. When you get the meter, check for 12V at the common black wire, with the ignition on.
Hope this helps!
Scott

[Johnie]

Hey Andy...how you doing over there? I had an extra switch here from a parts bike I used for my test. I just put the wire on and grounded the switch casing to the frame. I then tuned on the power and pushed the contact with my finger to see the light come on and off. You will need to drain the oil of course. Oh, and I also leaned the bike over to the right a little to keep oil from weeping out the hole once I had the switch out. And it is as easy as you say. Take off #1 pipe and away you go. I put a little anarobic gasket sealer on the o-ring just to give it a better seal too.
Good luck with it.
Johnie

[andy750]

Great info Scott and Johnnie! Thank you both very much. Now to get that multimeter.....

many thanks
Andy