Topic: Suitable Fuel tank sealer/sealant/liner

[Nezhac]

Hey all,

I'm thinking about cleaning out my tank as a bit of spring cleaning.
Don't have any particular mechanical problems that make me particularly want to do this, just the tank seems to be getting some rust inside.

I've read through a bunch of FAQs and posts here and decided to go the electrolysis way, the only question I have is about which sealant to choose for afterwards

I'm located in Switzerland, and can't successfully seem to find POR 15 anywhere (will keep looking tho), what I do have access to is Kreem and FlowLiner.
I've read bad stuff about kreem, so probably going to steer clear of that
As for FlowLiner, I've read both good and bad, any comments anyone?

Thanks for your time  

[midnightrider]

I don't know about Flowliner, but I had mine done with RedKoat and its holding up well so far.  It has not been very long though.

[Gordon]

If the rusting isn't that bad, after you finish cleaning it out you might consider just leaving it as it is.  I've had two tanks that I started the Por-15 treatment on, but after removing the rust they looked so good I just stopped there and didn't coat them.  The rust that was in there took decades to build up, and with proper usage and storage it won't build up again, or at least not for a long, long time. 

[IHWillys]

Gordon is spot on.  It sounds as though you have mild rust in the tank.  Basically, if it isn't leaking, just clean it with one of the various methods for removing rust and don't use any liner product.   If you do choose to use a liner, since the tank is not leaking, I would only use a product that is easy to remove.  I used an epoxy product on a leaky tank(multiple pinholes) which has held up fine for nearly a year now but I feel it is a last resort for the tank as removing the epoxy(ie after failure) would likely be very difficult.

Ken

[Gaither]

FWIW - Quality, dependable fuel tank sealer:

A good source for a quality tank sealer is an aircraft shop. After a certain number of "service hours" the FAA REQUIRES all aircraft fuel tanks to be treated with tank sealer - whether they need it or not. So most shops keep it on hand and it must be AIRCRAFT QUALITY. The one I went to had it in a 55 gallon drum - so they bought it much cheaper than our normal sources. I got into this when I was fooling with antique cars.

Go to a paint store and get a couple of new cans and lids. Spend a few minutes yaking with the mechanics and explain why you need the sealer. Most of 'em will fill your cans inexpensively. Also, you will find that it stores really well if properly sealed. I've had some of it for years and it is still good as the day I aquired it. 'Hope this helps.

[Terry in Australia]

I bought a POR-15 kit that was only good for one tank, and quite expensive, but found that I could buy the individual items in bigger quantities from my local auto paint supplier, and with a liter can of liner, I've done two tanks so far (Suzuki GS1000 and CB750) with plenty left over for another two or three CB750 tanks I've got here when I get some warmer weather.

The electrolysis method seems to be a good idea, but it's hard to tell how much rust is in your tank just by looking through the filler cap, so rather than risk having some area's of paper tissue thin metal once the rust has been removed, I'd strongly advise lining your tank afterwards. All three tanks I've done with POR-15 are still perfect (the first one I did with the kit 4 years ago) and the metallic silver color of the POR-15 is a nice finish, compared to some of the liner's I've seen. Cheers, Terry.

[Gaither]

Good idea, Terry. Saves $ and is less trouble than going to the airport.

Also, in the antique car days, I have had auto fuel tanks cleaned and lined [sloshed] at a radiator shop with great results. Most of 'em keep the sloshing compound. 'Wouldn't want to so with a bike tank if you care anything about the paint job.