Author Topic: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750 - ITS DONE!!!! (Read 77857 times)

kiwi · « **Reply #125 on:** March 18, 2011, 05:56:29 pm »

just read the whole blog - awsome stuff - nice build !!.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #126 on:** March 18, 2011, 06:42:17 pm »

Quote from: brycegp on March 18, 2011, 03:37:09 pm

Thanks, mrbreeze!! When I first tried with the 1/2 drive and it didn't work..I almost tried the 3/8 drive. I didn't cuz I compare the two 18mm sockets and they were almost the same OD. So I figure the 3/8 wouldn't work either.

But the 3/8 is just enough smaller than the 1/2 to drop in there.

Chalk a big "DUH" up for me...

Thanks again!

I have one 3/8 drive 18mm deepwell, 1 extension, 1 ratchet, 2 cb750's...this set up worrks on one 750 but not the other!

rickyracer · « **Reply #127 on:** March 20, 2011, 11:20:17 pm »

lol....yea i did the same thing started with a new 1/2" socket from Kragen but no luck then went to 3/8" worked no problem, glad you got it!

brycegp · « **Reply #128 on:** March 23, 2011, 04:00:17 pm »

So there is only one glitch I've found so far in the electrical system. The neutral light is always on. While in neutral, the neutral light glows bright. But in any other gear, the neutral light is on but much dimmer.

I traced the issue from the neutral light back to the switch. The wiring is sound with good connections. So if the wiring is ok, what else could be the issue?

I pulled the switch to get a good look at it...see pics.

mrrch · « **Reply #129 on:** March 24, 2011, 09:33:52 am »

I remember having to disassemble mine because the neutral light was stuck on(too much crud kept the detent pushed in partially).Removed the glue/sealer on the bottom side with the screw, then I used some snapring pliers in 2 of the 4 holes and unthreaded the internal piece to clean it out, I used some threebond to reseal it or try another switch if you have one.

brycegp · « **Reply #130 on:** March 24, 2011, 03:10:53 pm »

Quote from: mrrch on March 24, 2011, 09:33:52 am

I remember having to disassemble mine because the neutral light was stuck on(too much crud kept the detent pushed in partially).Removed the glue/sealer on the bottom side with the screw, then I used some snapring pliers in 2 of the 4 holes and unthreaded the internal piece to clean it out, I used some threebond to reseal it or try another switch if you have one.

Thanks for the suggestion...I was wondering if there was a way to disassemble it. I don't have another to test so...I guess I'm taking apart the one I have.

I'll update you after. Thanks again!

brycegp · « **Reply #131 on:** March 25, 2011, 01:44:18 pm »

I opened it up and cleaned it. But the grim wasn't my problem. The ball bearing and copper plunger weren't plunging far enough to reach those pinch connectors on the threaded base, which keeps the unit centered as it moves up and down. The fix was to screw the base in further into the housing so as to keep a constant contact, thereby keeping the ball bearing centered when it is depressed.

Basically it needed to couple more turns to get it in there far enough to stay centered and not ground out on the housing walls when in 1st-5th gear.

DISCLAIMER: "I think..."

Removing the base from the housing.

All the parts.

brycegp · « **Reply #132 on:** March 29, 2011, 04:14:27 pm »

I am trying to locate a 60MM speedometer (MPH) that recesses in the headlight bucket I have. It would be preferrable it if had a tripometer.

The speedo drive on the hub seems to spin approx. 2.9 times per 1 revolution of the wheel. 2.9:1 ratio. My front tire OD is 27.25".

The translates to: 1 revolution of the front wheel per 7.13 ft. traveled. 740 revolutions of the front wheel per 1 mile traveled. 2160 revolutions of the speedo drive per 1 mile traveled.

Anyone have any answers on how to find the right speedo that reads accurately for my setup?

Thanks!
Bryce

brycegp · « **Reply #133 on:** March 30, 2011, 03:49:33 pm »

Nobody? I was sure someone would have a lead on speedos for this application. Hmmm...

the imposter · « **Reply #134 on:** March 30, 2011, 07:32:22 pm »

just read through this whole thread. great looking bike very nice work. cant wait to see it finished

unitedguitar · « **Reply #135 on:** March 30, 2011, 07:36:48 pm »

With speedos it is a matter of whether or not the tire is the same height as the original. Changing the rim and all of that doesn't really matter as long as you change the profile size accordingly. Its like when a person puts 20" rims on their Escalade they have to put low profile tires on it to accommodate for the bigger wheel. When you lace up a smaller rim you have to have a bigger profile to accommodate for the inch that you lost in the wheel. If you don't adjust for that then you'll have an issue with getting a speedo that fits your application. However, if the tire is the same height, then you can use a speedo geared for stock applications.

With all of that being said, I think you can use one of the mini speedometers from Parts'n'more. They have the trip odometer but, if it is housed inside the bucke,t you won't be able to reset it unless there is some sort of access hole to reach the dial. You can find them here: =accessories]http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/cb750k/?filters[category]=accessories

Hope this helps.

brycegp · « **Reply #136 on:** March 31, 2011, 06:26:25 pm »

Quote from: unitedguitar on March 30, 2011, 07:36:48 pm

With speedos it is a matter of whether or not the tire is the same height as the original. Changing the rim and all of that doesn't really matter as long as you change the profile size accordingly. Its like when a person puts 20" rims on their Escalade they have to put low profile tires on it to accommodate for the bigger wheel. When you lace up a smaller rim you have to have a bigger profile to accommodate for the inch that you lost in the wheel. If you don't adjust for that then you'll have an issue with getting a speedo that fits your application. However, if the tire is the same height, then you can use a speedo geared for stock applications.

With all of that being said, I think you can use one of the mini speedometers from Parts'n'more. They have the trip odometer but, if it is housed inside the bucke,t you won't be able to reset it unless there is some sort of access hole to reach the dial. You can find them here: =accessories]http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/cb750k/?filters[category]=accessories

Hope this helps.

Thanks, Unitedguitar! I understand all of this. I posted my specific setup in case anyone knows of a specific places to get custom geared speedos or a speedo that meets my needs.

I've checked all the usual suspects for speedos...I think...hoping that's not the case.

brycegp · « **Reply #137 on:** April 11, 2011, 09:49:11 am »

So I didn't realize that lowering the bike so much would make my kick stand obsolete. Its too long. Basically the bike stands straight up...and a brisk breeze will blow it over.

I can shorten the kick stand....but its been powder coated...so I thought that I might be able to swap mine for a shorter one...if someone has a shorter one and the need for a longer one.

"if someone has a shorter one and the need for a longer one"....oh let me get this joke out of the way...ahhahaha. I never thought I'd ever be saying THIS...

Dyrden · « **Reply #138 on:** June 25, 2011, 10:06:03 pm »

Sweet build. If you dont mind me asking, where did you find that headlight bucket? Or whats it from? Thanks.

brycegp · « **Reply #139 on:** June 27, 2011, 05:30:43 pm »

Quote from: Dyrden on June 25, 2011, 10:06:03 pm

Sweet build. If you dont mind me asking, where did you find that headlight bucket? Or whats it from? Thanks.

its a CEV 02734. typically, you'll find them on european mopeds...but I found this one one ebay. This takes a 5" headlight.

Be careful if you find one, that its not the 4" version...they look exactly the same. As you can see, I have the 4" version but felt it was too small for my build. If you want the smaller one, I have it already. NEW. $30 shipped and its yours. Just be aware that it will need a new headlight. cuz the one that's in it is new...BUT 6V.

Dyrden · « **Reply #140 on:** June 27, 2011, 07:16:46 pm »

Quote from: brycegp on June 27, 2011, 05:30:43 pm

Quote from: Dyrden on June 25, 2011, 10:06:03 pm
Sweet build. If you dont mind me asking, where did you find that headlight bucket? Or whats it from? Thanks.

its a CEV 02734. typically, you'll find them on european mopeds...but I found this one one ebay. This takes a 5" headlight.

Be careful if you find one, that its not the 4" version...they look exactly the same. As you can see, I have the 4" version but felt it was too small for my build. If you want the smaller one, I have it already. NEW. $30 shipped and its yours. Just be aware that it will need a new headlight. cuz the one that's in it is new...BUT 6V.

Thanks!

brycegp · « **Reply #141 on:** June 28, 2011, 09:22:55 am »

I'm just gonna go on record and tell you that the bigger one will not likely be easy to find. Its the only one I've ever found. There are a ton of the smaller ones one ebay...but for more than I'd charge you, if you want my smaller one.

But I remember a website that might have been selling reproductions...I'll look for it. And let you know...

brycegp · « **Reply #142 on:** June 28, 2011, 09:30:07 am »

I just read your build thread... Nice start! I love the frame mod to make the carbs fit.

And noticed you already have the headlight bucket. is it just me..or is that bucket really long front to back?

good thing if you're thinking about keeping most of the wiring harness...plenty of hiding for your rats nest!

FrankenFrankenstuff · « **Reply #143 on:** June 28, 2011, 09:55:07 am »

First off. I like the whole feel of this bike. Great choice with that tank. I have an S90 with a similar line as the "bomber" and it is amazing how much cooler the tanks look without a seat covering up that bottom 3 inches.

I am wondering about your seat pan bump. Who made it?

Dyrden · « **Reply #144 on:** June 28, 2011, 10:12:24 am »

Quote from: brycegp on June 28, 2011, 09:30:07 am

I just read your build thread... Nice start! I love the frame mod to make the carbs fit.

And noticed you already have the headlight bucket. is it just me..or is that bucket really long front to back?

good thing if you're thinking about keeping most of the wiring harness...plenty of hiding for your rats nest!

Thanks. And yea it is a bit long(insert joke here). That's why I'm on the hunt for something a little more compact. I'm going to build a super minimal harness and keyless RFID ignition like on my street fighter r1 so maybe I can use that extra inch or so productively. There won't be any switches on the bars so things like kill/hi-lo/start will have to go somewhere.

brycegp · « **Reply #145 on:** June 28, 2011, 10:33:21 am »

Quote from: Dyrden on June 28, 2011, 10:12:24 am

Thanks. And yea it is a bit long(insert joke here). That's why I'm on the hunt for something a little more compact. I'm going to build a super minimal harness and keyless RFID ignition like on my street fighter r1 so maybe I can use that extra inch or so productively. There won't be any switches on the bars so things like kill/hi-lo/start will have to go somewhere.

I haven't touched the project in two months due to being out of town on work. Its so close I can taste it...

I deleted most of my handle controls too. Turn signals / horn are all that remains on the left handle control. Kill switch is an off/on/off toggle on the headlight bucket. Also the headlight switch is on/off only, also placed on the headlight bucket. Deleted hi/lo beams...who needs em.

Did you see my start button placement?? Its my favorite...look on the triple tree nut...

brycegp · « **Reply #146 on:** June 28, 2011, 10:38:57 am »

Quote from: Frankenstuff on June 28, 2011, 09:55:07 am

First off. I like the whole feel of this bike. Great choice with that tank. I have an S90 with a similar line as the "bomber" and it is amazing how much cooler the tanks look without a seat covering up that bottom 3 inches.

I am wondering about your seat pan bump. Who made it?

I designed it...found the materials. And a friend helped me mock it up...and then he did all the welding to put it together. He will make you one custom...but it isn't cheap. I have a few examples of others he's done in the past. But I still have to devise a mounting method for mine...

FrankenFrankenstuff · « **Reply #147 on:** June 28, 2011, 02:13:08 pm »

Love the white walls. I was rocking them for a bit but....went in another direction. About the seat, I have had 2 made for me by forum members, but seem to botch them up when trying to add my own flavor to them. Both great work but still not what I really really have in mind.

Here is my tank that i am looking to get a cowl to match.

Here is my thread http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=70436.msg782070#msg782070

brycegp · « **Reply #148 on:** July 25, 2011, 07:48:34 am »

So I need some suggestions for custom foot pegs. Suggestions can be to replace the original using the stock brackets OR new pegs with custom mounting hardware. They are going in the stock location because I am using the stock foot levers.

Must be bolt on. NO WELDING necessary.

I am sure you guys have genius ideas...I'd love to see what you've done.

Thanks!
Bryce

unitedguitar · « **Reply #149 on:** July 25, 2011, 01:57:24 pm »

I used bicycle pegs for mine. They don't fold up anymore because of how I mounted them but they look pretty slick. I just removed the stock ones and rigged up a bolt that was held in place by the stock retainer pin. I had to cut a small groove in the bolt and flatten out one side of the pin to make it work but they are strong and can withstand over 250 pounds of weight on them.

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Author Topic: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750 - ITS DONE!!!! (Read 77857 times)