Author Topic: Powder coating or DIY rattlecan or Buy a compressor and spray paint (Read 8564 times)

laminarflowone · « **on:** July 19, 2010, 05:56:24 PM »

I am in the middle of restoring a 1976 CB750 that has some rust in spots on nearly all parts. I asked a local powder coating shop for an estimate on the frame/exhaust/engine/tank/fork tube(maybe?) and was quoted at 300 to 500 dollars for everything including sand blasting and a single color. Is this a reasonable deal or should I be exploring a DIY method like aerosol paint or automotive paint? This is my first bike and I want the finish to last so I won't have to completely rebuild this for quite some time.

Thanks!
Josh

ev0lve · « **Reply #1 on:** July 19, 2010, 06:07:46 PM »

Subscribed. I got a $500 quote here in Seattle as well so it's probably reasonable - rims, fenders included, no exhaust, no tank.

On the fence about enamel paints. Did my triple tree up in appliance enamel and it's held up just fine to use and UV so far - 1.5 years - unlike my powdercoated from the manufacturer bars which have faded.

Maybe some folks will chime in with some definitive info.

laminarflowone · « **Reply #2 on:** July 19, 2010, 06:14:31 PM »

I mean, I am a graduate student so I have a definitive budget for this project, but I plan on riding this bike frequently and if it will last significantly longer, I'm willing to spend a little more for quality.

Yeah, he said 200 dollars for the frame alone. I need to do the exhaust as well because the PO rattle-can painted them black and sanded the chrome away....

I also make carbon fiber parts on the side for custom jobs and occasionally for my actual research so I would get use out of a diy powder coat or paint kit.

ev0lve · « **Reply #3 on:** July 19, 2010, 06:21:03 PM »

Quote from: laminarflowone on July 19, 2010, 06:14:31 PM

I mean, I am a graduate student so I have a definitive budget for this project, but I plan on riding this bike frequently and if it will last significantly longer, I'm willing to spend a little more for quality.

Yeah, he said 200 dollars for the frame alone. I need to do the exhaust as well because the PO rattle-can painted them black and sanded the chrome away....
I also make carbon fiber parts on the side for custom jobs and occasionally for my actual research so I would get use out of a diy powder coat or paint kit.

Word I've gleaned is ceramic coating is preferred for the exhaust.

NOW you'll get some opinions

The_Crippler · « **Reply #4 on:** July 19, 2010, 06:22:46 PM »

$500 is a really good deal - but as pointed out, you need something super high-temp for the exhaust, like ceramic. I had the ceramic done on my pipes, and I love it.

Stev-o · « **Reply #5 on:** July 19, 2010, 06:48:34 PM »

I wouldn't go crazy with the powdercoaing, don't do the exhaust or the tank. You can get a better finish with laquer on the tank and sidecovers.

Lumbee · « **Reply #6 on:** July 19, 2010, 06:51:41 PM »

..I like PC. It is tougher than auto paint, but generally doesn't have the depth/quality. I think it does tend to "smudge" quicker, but from a protective stand point I think PC is better than paint. With PC, you sandblast and coat..that it..not chance for moisture to get to the metal. Auto paint looks great, but a good quality job will cost twice as much, and if the guy doesn't know what hes doing, you can end up with problems later. PC is a pretty idiot proof process as long as you have the equipment. My vote is for PC.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #7 on:** July 19, 2010, 07:02:09 PM »

Had my frame and all black parts done with a second clear coat $250. Had the engine (below cylinders) done by a different shop that specializes in detailed expensive bicycle powder with fading, multiple colors and graphics. Double coated also. Fair amount more than the frame guy but Damn, it looks killer. If your guy does good work I'd do it for that price! Lot of work to do it properly.

laminarflowone · « **Reply #8 on:** July 19, 2010, 07:12:59 PM »

Wow! 250 total? The guy who is doing it primarily refinishes bicycles and seems to be fairly new in the business...I only want one color: black, and it doesn't need to be anything fancy, just durable. On second thought, I will end up rattle-can painting the gas tank to save some bills, and people on this forum have been kind enough to share enough examples of gas tank eye candy.

From my understanding, it will cost ~100 for a compressor and ~100 for a powder coating kit and ~250 to build an appropriately-sized oven. Another consideration is that I will be leaving the house I am renting around spring semester to go do my post-doc, so I won't be able to bring something like an oven with me...Whereas, I could leave the compressor and painting spray gun at my parent's house nearby.

Also, the is the general consensus that powder coating will be worth the expense over a DIY rattlecan job at these prices?

Thanks!

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #9 on:** July 19, 2010, 09:20:41 PM »

My engine guy sent my cases etc out for plastic media blasting as to not affect the surface appearance with serious media meant to remove paint, etc. They normally blast on site but they are not set up for plastic media. He taped them off first. Got them back. Baked them the first time to sweat out/burn off any impurities inside the aluminum or on the surface, taped them off again, sprayed the black powder and baked that, did some metallic silver highlighting on the shift pattern and around "Honda" and the ring on the alternator cover, baked that, then put on a matte clear to cover it all and baked that. $$$ Now I will spray the completed 900 cylinders and the $2K JMR head with PJ1 satin. Seems a shame but it must be done this way. Guess you'd just say I'm FN nuts but I've always wanted to do it right one time!

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #10 on:** July 19, 2010, 09:47:50 PM »

If you are on a budget mate, just buy a good quality epoxy enamel rattle can paint and no-one will know the difference, and it'll last as long as the bike will. Cheers, Terry.

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #11 on:** July 19, 2010, 09:57:05 PM »

A friend did a pro paint job on my 79XS650 around 1982. It held up till the last few years (still glossy but cracking) and now will be redone. I am not sure PC retains it's gloss for anywhere near as long as a good paint job.

Accolay · « **Reply #12 on:** July 19, 2010, 11:48:48 PM »

A hard question only you can answer for yourself. 300-500 bucks to me is 1/3 to 1/2 my monthly pay while school is in session, and I work hard and long for that money.

I decided to paint my frame because I was worried about getting big scratches and chips during reassembly. I had them media blasted and painted in the garage. I've never done work like this before and I scratched the hell out of the bike in a few spots. Now I can repaint those spots myself. I used Interlux brightside polyurethane paint.

KB02 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 20, 2010, 05:08:42 AM »

We have seen some really nice rattle can paint jobs on the site. I have a compressor and a paint gun, so I went the automotive paint route with my bike. With either paint you use, it all comes down to prep, prep, prep, and prep. AND, be prepared to do some sanding and polishing once you have your paint down.

As for powder coating, what the others have said it right on. You've been quoted a good price. The PC is tougher than paint so great for frame and rims and what not. If you want everything to match, be very careful with your color choices.

laminarflowone · « **Reply #14 on:** July 20, 2010, 05:58:57 AM »

@KB02, if you don't mind me asking, but approximately how much did it cost for the automotive paint setup, minus air compressor?

Thanks everyone for the replies. The prep part has me the most worried, because I can only chemically strip and manually sand the parts, which may not be enough for many of the complex shapes and parts. Sandblasting, it seems, would get into all the hidden nooks and crannies, and the professional powder coat would be something that would last a bit longer.
I will ask him if he can plastic media blast or soda blast the engine parts.

wildcatmahone · « **Reply #15 on:** July 20, 2010, 06:53:50 AM »

I have painted my 750 frame using Eastwood's Chassis Black over their Rust Encapsulator with great results! Have gotten plenty of positive comments and some have thought that it was a PC it came out so sweet. If your gonna go with rattlecan get the higher end stuff you'll thank yourself.
As far as all the other bits like gas tank/headlight/side covers I know you don't have a compressor (neither do I) I would build a positive pressure spray booth like I did recently and get a setup like this from Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hvlp-turbine-spray-system-66297.html

For $200+ you'll be ready to lay down some good urethane paint no compressor/regulator/air water filters/ spray guns needed. I too am on a budget and have limited space so this is the best way to go to get professional results with pro materials.

-Wildcat

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #16 on:** July 20, 2010, 06:55:23 AM »

You won't be able to get quality PC equipment for that cheap.

On your budget, a good rattle can job would be the best alternative.

laminarflowone · « **Reply #17 on:** July 20, 2010, 09:23:08 AM »

Thanks for the responses!
@wldcatmahone, that was very helpful! Do you suggest doing the chassis black paint instead of a spray paint, and can I spray clear coat over the chassis black to protect it?

wildcatmahone · « **Reply #18 on:** July 20, 2010, 04:17:28 PM »

Yeh the chassis black comes in aerosols and quarts if I was to do it all over again I would ditch the spray cans and go with that hvlp turbine setup. Just because you have a much wider choice of primers paints and clears. It's a whole another ball game when you can spray whatever you wish and not rely on spray can color choice. Check out TCP Global.com they have a wide range of colors in their in-house paint for 30 bucks a quart can't go wrong with that. It's called "Restoration Shop" and have gotten good reviews. Eastwood makes a "diamond clear" which is decent and will go on top the chassis black but not necessary.
Last but not least build a good spray booth to keep the crap off your paint job and wear OSHA approved protection accordingly.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #19 on:** July 20, 2010, 04:34:07 PM »

Here you go mate, here's a pic of my June BOTM winning K2. All painting was done with rattle cans. Total cost for paint was less than 200 bucks. Cheers, Terry.

ev0lve · « **Reply #20 on:** July 20, 2010, 04:35:30 PM »

What do you guys think of PreVal as opposed to a can?

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-267-Paint-Spray-Gun/dp/B0000AY19M/ref=pd_sim_dbs_sg_2

wildcatmahone · « **Reply #21 on:** July 20, 2010, 05:48:14 PM »

Quote from: Iggy on July 20, 2010, 04:35:30 PM

What do you guys think of PreVal as opposed to a can?

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-267-Paint-Spray-Gun/dp/B0000AY19M/ref=pd_sim_dbs_sg_2

?? Your joking, right?

SohRon · « **Reply #22 on:** July 20, 2010, 05:53:36 PM »

I'm curious about the PreVal, too. Anyone tried it? I have a friend who's a professional house painter and he swears by these for touch-up and getting into tricky areas - though I realize there's a difference between house paint and lacquer... . I've never used it, but it's supposed to be equivalent to a rattle-can.

I'm also wondering what luck anyone has had with super paints like POr-15 or Rust Bullet Black Shell industrial-strength paints? Claims are that these paints are as tough as PC, and act as a rust barrier. They can be sprayed or brushed, as they're a self-leveling paint. Anyone tried these on their frames?

laminarflowone · « **Reply #23 on:** July 20, 2010, 06:12:33 PM »

I am also curious about the POR paint. Oh boy, this means I need to actually clean out the garage to fit a paint booth in there somewhere...

I think I will end up getting the turbine setup because you never know when you might need to paint something.

BTW, Terry, your bike looks absolutely stunning; if only mine can look as good. Right now, its in the process of dismantling because I've been busy with making the final edits on a couple of my papers.

Also, how do people typically prep their surfaces (particularly unusual surfaces) without sand or soda blasting them? Just chemical strip and sand?

77cafe750 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 20, 2010, 06:40:49 PM »

i have used por15 on the gloorboards in my chevy almost 3 years ago and havent had a problem with them since

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Author Topic: Powder coating or DIY rattlecan or Buy a compressor and spray paint (Read 8564 times)

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