Topic: Mitsubishi Lancer Dire Help!

[campbmic]

I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ with 133K miles with a manual transmission

I've had the car for about 2 years and it hasn't given me any problems really. About 3 months ago I left the lights on and the battery died but I got a jump and it started right up and ran great. A few days ago the clock and radio both stopped working. I replaced two 10A fuses under the engine that were in a little yellow plastic holder with a 10A and a 15A (I only had one 10A).

Anyways, I just loaded it up with all of my girlfriends belongings and drove her from Dallas to New York about 1,700 miles. The car seemed to start having a small but noticeable engine noise about 700 miles into the trip. It tended to go away at high speeds and was only really noticeable when the car was in neutral. If the car was in neutral and I pressed in the clutch the noise would go away.

At about 1,000 miles into the trip we pulled over and took a nap. My girlfriend left the lights on and when I woke up the battery was dead. We were luckily enough to be on the top of a hill so I bump started the car. We drove it the rest of the way to New York without anymore surprises.

We got to Long Island, where we are staying, yesterday. A few hours later I went out to the car and it was completely dead. It didn't look as if we left any lights on but I really didn't check all that well. I jump started the car and drove it around the block a few miles. I noticed that whenever I shifted to neutral the car would bog down and die unless I held the gas down a little. Today I went out and the battery was dead again so I went to Wal Mart and got a new one. Now when I drive the car around it still bogs down every once in awhile when I shift from neutral. So far I've been able to start the car each time afterwards. WTF is going on!? I need to drive the car back to Dallas in a few days!
 

Thanks!

[Duke McDukiedook]

No check engine lights coming on?

Bad ignition coil, distributor, rotor, wires, spark plugs? Have these items been replaced recently?

This is usually the time when a distributor might go out on you.

[scottly]

Got your trusty multi-meter with you? If so, check the battery voltage with the motor running, just like you would on your bike, except you don't have to rev it to 3000rpm for max output. If you don't have a meter, or for that matter, even if you do, inspect the alternator drive belt, and check for tightness. Also, inspect vacuum hoses for leaks. There may be a map of the hoses on the underside of the hood. 

[campbmic]

I do not have the multimeter on me. I drove the car around a few times today and the battery still seems strong so I dont think its running down.

The problem I'm concerned about is when I shift slowly or leave it in neutral sometimes the RPMs will drop dramatically, sometimes cutting the engine off, and sometimes they will rebound back and stay at about 800 RPM where they are suppose to be. Any other ideas on what could be causing this?

The check engine light came on about 30k miles ago and the code was a O2 sensor in the catalytic converter. Ill pull the code again and see if there are any new ones to go along with it.

[scottly]

The problem I'm concerned about is when I shift slowly or leave it in neutral sometimes the RPMs will drop dramatically, sometimes cutting the engine off, and sometimes they will rebound back and stay at about 800 RPM where they are suppose to be. Any other ideas on what could be causing this?

My '01 Civic does something like this. When idling at a light, the RPM will drop from 1200? down to the point I think it will die, then pick up and idle normally. If that is your only real symptom, and the car runs ok on the freeway, I wouldn't be too concerned about the trip home. You might consider running some fuel system cleaner through it on the way back. 

[bradweingartner]

Sounds to me like the alternator #$%* the bed. All those charges from dead is bad not only for the battery but also the alternator.

No big deal really. And it's surprising how far a car will run on a new battery with no alternator during the day with no headlights.

[tgtint]

Go to a local Vato Zone they will test the battery in the parking lot for you.  Maybe even the alternator if you are lucky...

Maybe a post it on the instrument cluster that reads "TURN OFF LIGHTS" is in order 

[Duke McDukiedook]

You young whippersnappers with leavin' lights on all the time- what is the deal with that?

Ya can't flip a switch?

[Grnrngr]

heh..I'm got tired of telling folks they've left their lights on only to hear "they turn themselves off..." I'm savin my breath now. +1 on checkin the alternator and distributor. My old 84 Chrysler Laser (also a Mitsubishi) had bad sensors in the dist, sometimes would run great all day, sometimes wouldn't run more than 5 minutes before shutting down, ten minutes later, fired right up and run for another 5 minutes...

[campbmic]

If the distributor was bad wouldnt the symptoms occur at all speeds? My issue only happens when the car is in neutral or not in gear.

[Grnrngr]

No, mine seemed to be affected by heat...it would just quit whenever it wanted..going down the road, sitting at a light...the onboard computer gave strange readings as well, indicating problems on either side of the distributor, but those parts checked out OK..your's could be worn bushings or bearings maybe? could be more "wobbly" at idle then as rpm increases runs more "centered"? pull the dist and check for shaft play, make sure you mark the rotor position so timing will be close at re-install..

[Grnrngr]

heh...on the other hand, my 93 mustang doesn't have a distributor, it has computer controlled coil packs so it could be a different kind of electronic issue. Haven't worked on anything newer than a 98 so it's just a WAG....

[GammaFlat]

My wife's 2000 Civic was idling really low and didn't start very easily for a few weeks.  She told me she sometimes heard some squealing.  It finally just would not start.  The 'nator was seized.  I suspect the bearings had been going for a while.  To test this, loosen the belt on the alternator and start it (if it's not a serpentine making everything go).  See if the idle improves.  The environment that my wife's car "sees" is very very dirty (Basic Oxygen Furnace in a steel mill).  It has had lots of problems caused by scads of small particulates.... very hard on bearings. 

The noise you talk about that goes away when you press in the clutch is probably your throwout bearing chattering/rubbing against your clutch fork.  It's the donut shaped bearing on the end of the clutch fork that presses on the clutch fingers to disengage.  The noise is probably nothing. 

[Duke McDukiedook]

Or it could be on it's way out. 

[Kframe]

Does it do it with and without the AC on?

I wonder if a TPS, throttle position sensor, could be crapping out?
-K

[campbmic]

When the AC is on it seems to do it a lot less then with the AC off. Earlier today it hardly ever if at all cut out with the AC on. Its much more noticeable with the AC off.

[Grnrngr]

certainly wouldn't hurt to clean all the connections and sensors befoire spending any money...

[scottly]

When the AC is on it seems to do it a lot less then with the AC off. Earlier today it hardly ever if at all cut out with the AC on. Its much more noticeable with the AC off.

Hmm, come to think of it, my Civic hasn't acted up since it got hot here, and the AC is always on. Don't think I would be too worried about it....

[77cafe750]

common problem with mitsu is idle air motor getting carboned up and has a hard time finding the happy idle spot either to much or not enough tends to make the car bog and stall when off throttle unused when any pedal is applied just somthen i would check
peace crash

[campbmic]

So, pretty much ever since I first got the car it has had a check engine light on. I took it to Autozone to check it out and they pulled the codes and said it ws a faulty catlytic converter.

I just took it to autozone today to see if any new codes would pop up. I have codes P0421 and P0135

P0421 is Warm up catalytic converter efficencey below threshold cylinders 1-4

P0135 is Heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1 (H02s11) heter performance

I believe I might have remembered something about the O2 sensor when the codes were pulled before. Could either of these issues be the cause of my problem?

Also, I noticed today that when the AC is turned on then the problem is less frequent. Specifically, when I hear the audible "clunk" or "click" the AC makes when it is actually working I notice that the problem 100% goes away. When the AC is not working or when it is shutoff the car tries to idle at like 0 RPM unless I keep tapping on the gas.

[campbmic]

Actually, I just did some research and apparently those codes are from an issue with the catlytic converter which the car has always had. The good news is that I read there was a recall and I can get that problem solved for free from the stealership! Unfortunately, my idleing issue still exists

[Retro Rocket]

common problem with mitsu is idle air motor getting carboned up and has a hard time finding the happy idle spot either to much or not enough tends to make the car bog and stall when off throttle unused when any pedal is applied just somthen i would check
peace crash

My Daughter has an earlier model Lancer but it has the 4G63 twin cam engine {not standard} but it does this exact same thing, where is this "idle air motor" to which you refer ? I have replaced all the sensors but the problem persisted?

Mick

[Duke McDukiedook]

O2 heater should not be giving you these problems.

[scottly]

My Daughter has an earlier model Lancer but it has the 4G63 twin cam engine {not standard} but it does this exact same thing, where is this "idle air motor" to which you refer ? I have replaced all the sensors but the problem persisted?

Mick

Mick, on most EFI motors, the throttle butterfly is closed all the way, with no adjustment. The idle air control motor screws a valve in or out, to allow air to bypass the throttle, and adjusts the idle speed under computer control. It's usually mounted on the throttle body, or on the manifold near when the TB attaches.

[77cafe750]

scottly beat me to the answer