Author Topic: Spark plug boot broke off...how to repair? (Read 10793 times)

ron.cieri.313 · « **on:** October 13, 2010, 04:32:04 pm »

Hi all...talking about my Honda CB750 '76 K...so after lots of work my bike was running nice...even most of the idling issues had been resolved. Starting taking her out more, you know, showing her off, and...she starting crapping out on me.

A couple minutes after starting, she just konks out...well, she starts misfiring, seems like she's running only on a few cylinders. So, I'm pretty confident on the carberation, stock air filter, and just replaced the fuel lines (clear lines) and routed the proper way through the frame of the carb holder...anyways, figure it must be spark...read the FAQ's...so buy a cheap spark indicator tool (yes, I know I can lay it on the block but lil' antsy about getting shocked)...cylinder 4 good, 3, good, go over the left side, check one and the friggin' boot falls off...I'm pretty sure that its not suppose to look like below:

So, what are my options here can i rewire the boot to the spark plug cable? buy a new cable?...do I need to buy the left coil with the spark plug lead attached?

thx all...ron

scunny · « **Reply #1 on:** October 13, 2010, 04:41:43 pm »

that boot should just screw onto the spark lead, just cut off about a 1/4 inch of the lead end first.

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 13, 2010, 05:36:40 pm »

k...I cut off about 1/4" of the rubber and exposed wire from the lead...which is greenish and assuming is a sign of oxidation, so maybe I need to cut off a bit more and clean the wire.

...then inside the boot, appears to be the end of the original wire still stuck in there...should I just pull out with needle nose pliers?...seems to be stuck pretty good.

scunny · « **Reply #3 on:** October 13, 2010, 05:44:07 pm »

cut back the lead until you see clean wire. I would use some needle nose pliers and try and unscrew the crap out of the plug cap. anticlockwise(lefty losey) it should reveal what looks like a wood screw.

Stev-o · « **Reply #4 on:** October 13, 2010, 06:14:55 pm »

Install new spark plug caps, they do wear out. About $3 from Honda.

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 13, 2010, 07:29:09 pm »

Well, here's what it looks like inside (not easy to get a pic)

so how does the wire connect to this "screw"...does the wire just splinter over the screw and the gets locked in place by the pressure of the outside rubber tubing?

and yes, maybe I'll get a new replacement (no corrosion???) but installation would be the same no?

Stev-o · « **Reply #6 on:** October 13, 2010, 07:38:27 pm »

Just screw the cap into the wire, simple.

You can ohm out the cap to check it, but at $3, I'd just replace 'em [I recently did]

buttcan · « **Reply #7 on:** October 13, 2010, 07:48:10 pm »

Personally I'd replace the whole thing wires and all. Either use a 79-83 coil that has removeable wires or drill out the existing coils and replace wires with a brandy new set.

If you are intent on keeping the old yucky wires and caps, the insides of the plug caps are removeable with a flat blade screwdriver. Clean em in some vinegar for a short period of time and reassemble and connect them to the wires like Scunny said.

[url]http://s382.photobucket.com/albums/oo261/nheckler/polishing/?action=view&current=Santeebuild009.jpgurl]

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 13, 2010, 07:54:18 pm »

Well...thanks all...will try the simplest repair first...order the cap to have on hand and..I wonder, if this possible is NOT the last of the problem...could the coils still be bad?

Stev-o · « **Reply #9 on:** October 13, 2010, 07:58:50 pm »

Scunny's repair:

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 14, 2010, 07:06:38 am »

Don't know if I'm that adventurous but I know it would save me money.

I will fix the boot tonight and do a test run and see what happens but do coils start acting up (or shutting down) after they get warmed up?

ekpent · « **Reply #11 on:** October 14, 2010, 07:14:40 am »

They can after getting hot but I don't think they have a real high failure rate per say.When you get the plug cap screwed back on.do the other 3 also,little clip off and reattach,check for spark quality on a good plug outside of motor,and in a dark garage run the motor to see if you are getting and other anomalies off from cracked wires etc.

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 14, 2010, 07:28:33 am »

Thx Eric!

...just read on another post that I could check for spark right after/if she bogs down again.

ekpent · « **Reply #13 on:** October 14, 2010, 07:47:39 am »

Good Idea. Just carry an extra good plug with you and if you have a symptom pop it in the cap and check for spark quality.Watch your hand-arm on those pipes---OOOOH Fresh Meat

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 14, 2010, 07:53:13 am »

ah yes, the smell burnt flesh...yummy!

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 15, 2010, 07:05:53 am »

Okay, repaired the boot (yes, everyone was right, that was easy)...cleaned the point (business card and brake fluid)...check connections to/from the coil...found one loose black/white wire leading to the right coil...started her up, she purred like a big cat....problem solved right?

not so fast of course....test drive (staying in the neighborhood cuz i was tired of pushing her home), she sounds great for about 2-3 minutes and then...start misfiring, sputtering, dies out...boys, I'm thinking I'm missing the obvious...a fuel delivery issue.

I can start her back up but putting the choke on....for 5 - 10 seconds...also, I did change the fuels line prior to all this shenigans. Put nice clear lines and I can see the gas in them but I guess that doesn't mean it's making its way smoothly into the carb bowls....so, instead of assuming, its time to start checking that...will let you know how it goes.

ekpent · « **Reply #16 on:** October 15, 2010, 07:13:33 am »

When it starts its sputter routine turn it and the gas off quickly. Check the head pipes for uneven temps and pull the float bowls off any cooler ones and have a peek in there to see what the gasoline level looks like.Goota love those bowl clips and not screws.

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 15, 2010, 07:38:59 am »

thx eric...great minds think alike...I was telling the wife, "you know what i should do, drive the bike around the block till it konks out, turn off the gas, and check the bowls"...she's like, will you please do that in the daytime?...guesss she knows how fantical we can be when on trail of cycle prob....but i didn't make any promises (she works nights)...however, I went riding instead on the 450 so definitely this weekend's work.

I never "bled" the new fuel lines...but geez, don't u think air would've been work out of the lines by now?...I'm thinking the line in blocked in maybe one of the T connectors but know how or why...but first things first, need to confirm with the test and go from there....at least I didn't rush ahead and buy expensive parts that I didn't need...I'm learning!

Stev-o · « **Reply #18 on:** October 15, 2010, 07:53:00 am »

Should be no need to bleed fuel line. Sounds like you have minor issue, you'll find it.

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 18, 2010, 08:17:39 am »

Yep...found it...fuel line kinked right near the petcock...my short rubber connecting hose was at a sharp angle and apparently collapsed on itself....another lesson learned...rerouted lines under the carbs and all is well...bike has never run this good

Stev-o · « **Reply #20 on:** October 18, 2010, 07:11:30 pm »

Great! You gotta feel good about that.

Every issue has a reason, and some are easier to find than others...

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Author Topic: Spark plug boot broke off...how to repair? (Read 10793 times)