Topic: K7 electric question

[Stev-o]

Finally got the project bike's engine unstuck and tried to crank it. Oil pressure & neutral light came on, but when start button was pressed all I got was a buzzing sound from the electrics area behind the left side cover. The PO did some creative wiring that obviously was a bad idea.
All you experts, please take a close look and let me know what you think. Thx.

[cookindaddy]

Probably you should look at the starter solenoid, since it is probably the thing doing the buzzing when you push the start button? It is the thing in the top center of the picture with the big red wire going to it. With the battery disconnected, remove each of its wires and make sure that they are clean and that good contact is being made. The rest of the creative wiring in the picture (the twist nuts) is probably wiring to the alternator and may be ok and not the cause of your starter motor not working. You will see if it charges once you can get it started.

[scottly]

Also check the battery connections, and make sure the battery is fully charged.

[Spanner 1]

What the heck is that 2nd. fat wire ( with red tape ring on it ) connected with the battery + ( Red ) wire on the solenoid  ... Should be red under one nut and black (+) to the starter motor on the other one, only
Also where's the battery ground going to ??

[scottly]

Good eye spanner! Is the wire with the red ring the starter wire, and the ground tied to the other post?

[Spanner 1]

I bet  $100 your right Scottly, 'cos there is no ground wire on the engine mount bolt where it should be 

[Stev-o]

What the heck is that 2nd. fat wire ( with red tape ring on it )

That cable goes to a plug that goes to wire harness [and starter sw?]

Don't have time to deal w/it now, gotta get my costume on for a wild party tonight! [live band, 10 kegs, 200 partyers!!]

Thanks.

[GammaFlat]

I looks like your rectifier and regulator have been replaced with an aftermarket unit (or something from another bike).  The finned thing near the bottom is probably your replacement part.  There should be a shell connector with 5 connections (rectifier) and another 3 or 4 connections (regulator) all leading to the finned mystery piece.  It may make sense to get an original regulator and build your own rectifier.  PinHead also used a $13 Ford regulator and documented that in a thread that's easy to find.  If your charging stuff works, you may want to leave good enough alone but I prefer to understand what I've got especially if someone has mucked with it. 

I'd also strongly consider replacing the fuse holder with a bladed arrangement.