Author Topic: CAM type and setting HELP! (Read 34571 times)

Tintop · « **Reply #50 on:** June 23, 2011, 03:20:45 PM »

Laying the engine on it's right side, and lowering the frame over it. is the easiest way. Just make sure the engine won't rock. Did you grind the right lower engine mount, so it can't hang up on the pan?

immortal · « **Reply #51 on:** June 23, 2011, 03:56:58 PM »

Thanks for that tip. I have not touched the engine mount but I will look out for it and I can do it if I need to. I remember it was bear to get the motor out. I used long nail bars to jiggle it back and forth in the end and that really made it happen. Will be really happy when that part is over. Thanks again for the advise!

immortal · « **Reply #52 on:** June 24, 2011, 09:58:10 AM »

As of last night the motor is in the frame so I am well happy. The downside is a few paint chips, that's the price you pay for rattle can paint that chips so easily. The VHT wrinkle finish looks to be a good choice but the caliper paint etc is another story. I have spent what I consider to be a lot of money on this bike so far and I did opt for powder coating the rims frames and battery box etc. I decided to invest money there but use rattle can paint, VHT Caliper paint on fork legs, brake parts, triple tree etc. I regret that now as I cannot believe how easily you get big paint chips. Now I need to touch up those chips which I am noticing on my finned covers too. This is my first ever build so you live and learn. If I could pass a mistake I made along it would be, really think twice about rattle can paint on metal parts.

immortal · « **Reply #53 on:** June 24, 2011, 10:18:08 AM »

So now I need some advise from you guys who understand electrical. This bike is a 1976 CB750F1..Initially I was told by what I consider to be a couple of good sources "one being Carpy"..that I will not be able to find a reproduction "F" harness and the "K" harness simply will not work on this bike. Simply put you need to work with what you have or find a used "F" harness and work with it. Trying to be helpful, I even passed on that info to members on the forum until reading enough posts that said this is not true and the "K" harness works just fine with a couple f minor tweaks....OK so now I have the 1975 "K" harness $78.00 ready to install.

My questions are can this bike handle this power consumption?? I have upgraded to the H4 halogen headlight. The front blinkers are single filament Harley type pictured. These would act only as turn signals....but in a perfect world I would add one of those "Magic Blinker" relays and have those blinkers act as running lights and turn signals.

?
I'm probably answering my own questions because it feels like a "NO"...too much draw. However the rear blinkers are LED. I do plan to run an 20 amp auxiliary power supply from the battery terminals to the front up by the gauges with an all weather cigarette lighter type plug. My thinking is to use this as my plug in trickle charger and gaps power supply and or auxiliary power that i socket could provide. I know the gps take very little juice so I guess it comes down to the single filament and Halogen light demands......and if I have them on at the same time at night?

My thinking is that I will be OK if I do not use my front blinkers as running lights?......Any advise would be greatly appreciated...I'm clueless with electrical.

immortal · « **Reply #54 on:** June 24, 2011, 12:59:25 PM »

I got the motor out when I started this and then in again last night on my own wrangling around on the garage floor with 2 long nail bar/crow bars and a couple of hand towels...it wasn't too bad at all and I'm a newbie to this....I did go over board on the frame tape lol...over preparation...I'm OK with that.

immortal · « **Reply #55 on:** June 24, 2011, 01:03:48 PM »

And its in......couldn't resist sitting the tank and seat on...

Tintop · « **Reply #56 on:** June 24, 2011, 02:36:36 PM »

That's looking great immortal. Really like the paint scheme. I've had some similar issues with the VHT paint, on some small parts. I put it down to not properly priming the surface before paint, because of rushing. Will be redoing the right way now.

Can't help you on the K / F fitment issues, but would suspect they relate to length. As you have matching side covers

, it would seem you are retaining the electrics & battery in the stock location. I would start there laying it out / connecting, and go forward. Worst case you will have to add to wires.

As for charging, the SOHC's capacity is marginal in stock form. You can get LED replacements for the turn signal/running bulbs. These have the 115X base. They will require an electronic flasher to work properly. The H4 will be the major draw. You can get an HID system that will draw less on high than the H4 on low. As an historical side note. Hondaman mentions in his book that shops regularly disconnected the running lights, so as to not kill the battery in city traffic.

immortal · « **Reply #57 on:** June 24, 2011, 06:43:51 PM »

Hey Tintop, Thanks a lot, great advise. I think one of the reasons I have some chipping is two many coats or too thick..rattle can paint. My paint guy said that is also a problem to be careful of.

Maybe I will just use my front single filament bulbs for just blinkers, I don't know what the difference is in power but perhaps that extra juice from those two running lights may allow me the use of my H4 headlight. I wonder if the trade off would work? After I test it for a bit I can change out the H4 to a HID system if I run out of juice.

Thanks again for the advise, very helpful!

tweakin · « **Reply #58 on:** June 24, 2011, 06:55:38 PM »

Bike is looking great!

Electrical work is one of my major weaknesses, because I absolutely hate it.

I can tell you i have never come across a new wire harness for a F anywhere. I just went completely through my harness on my 77 and updated all the wires and connectors on it.

Keep up the great, detailed work.

gsnorcal · « **Reply #59 on:** June 24, 2011, 06:59:25 PM »

I bought a cheap Sears clamp-type ammeter. Just clamp any wire and you'll know exactly how much current it is drawing. You can also clamp around the charging line back to the battery and see how much charging you are getting. Then you'll know how much more load you can afford without running a deficit.

While I totally appreciate the collective conventional wisdom offered in forums, it is often overly generalized. In this case, it's so easy to get some concrete data for yourself, that you just might find that you have some amps to spare. Or not. But you will know by data.

Dave

immortal · « **Reply #60 on:** June 25, 2011, 06:16:10 PM »

Thanks to you guys and this forum for all your help, could not of got this far without you guys and the forum so Thanks again!

immortal · « **Reply #61 on:** June 25, 2011, 06:18:42 PM »

Plugging away!

KB02 · « **Reply #62 on:** June 26, 2011, 06:30:22 AM »

Lookin' sick, man. I love it.

immortal · « **Reply #63 on:** June 29, 2011, 06:53:19 PM »

Just realized my off center sprockets and new 530 chain is frighteningly close to my rear shock. The chain is almost touching the shock and the rear sprocket nuts spin very close to my rear shock lower bolt. Definitely need a serious look at how close they are. If one were to come undone it would lock up the back wheel...although unlikely.

I'm just getting ready to get the electrical in. I purchased a new wiring harness for a 750K model...looks like it will work as in the past 750F owners have told me different, but I am comfortable it will work fine. I am installing Hondamans transistorized ignition and starter relay switch. I found an almost new set of coils off a low mileage bike that look in way better shape than mine so i am going stock there just replacing the boots with a new NGK set. Have a maintenance free battery, a new Solid State Rectifier/regulator and new more modern fuse box to install. I guess I'm going to be up to my neck in wire for a bit!

gsnorcal · « **Reply #64 on:** June 29, 2011, 06:58:59 PM »

Looking better every day! Great work

Tintop · « **Reply #65 on:** June 29, 2011, 07:11:26 PM »

I don't remember seeing it posted, what size rear tire are you using? 2nd question, what is the offset of your sprockets?

immortal · « **Reply #66 on:** June 29, 2011, 09:07:20 PM »

Thanks guys!...The rear tire is a 140...although 130 would of been plenty but these spitfires were on sale, I think at Bikebandit about 6 months ago..so the price was what got me. Then that pushed me to just use offset sprockets because I needed new sprockets anyway and I knew it would be a bit tight so I thought it was a no brainer. The sprockets are 10mm offset and I got them for $138.00 as a set from Cycle X ..

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Chain%20Sprocket%20Page.htm

The other problem with the 140 is the brake stay which I already switched out for a 1970's Honda dirtbike brake arm, i believe it was. I gave about $10.00 for it and put it on the buffer and it is way lighter and I think it works and looks great!.....The standard brake stay seems way over kill and would be real close to the tire...on the other hand I hear some people just put a slight bend in them and they are fine.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #67 on:** June 29, 2011, 11:07:21 PM »

I have run 140 rears on these bikes without offset sprockets, sure you need them.? I am using offset sprockets on my K2 but i am also using a 160 rear tyre....Maybe even wider yet....

immortal · « **Reply #68 on:** June 29, 2011, 11:57:44 PM »

Thanks for that info on the sprockets. I think if I do have problems with the chain being too close to my rear shock, switching sprockets is an option. Good to know, Thanks!

immortal · « **Reply #69 on:** July 02, 2011, 04:12:00 PM »

Today, I will be mostly scratching my head....This is the bit my mum used to warn me about when putting my toys back together as a kid.......

I finally broke down and took everyones advise and purchased this 1975 750K harness to replace the rotting rats nest of an "F" harness that I had. So far...I think I am figuring it out slowly as I go although I am not sure about the "Red" connection...I am a little stumped at the moment can anyone help with what it is and where I am to be connecting to? Another challenge is going to be the XS650 controls...I have a diagram from the forum and I cant think about that right now, also just to ratchet up the challenge a bit I have the Hondaman transistorized ignition a Solid state regulator Rectifier, auxiliary power for my trickle charger/gps running up front and Magnum air horns on a separate harness.....oh and did I mention I suck at electrical......

wannabridin · « **Reply #70 on:** July 02, 2011, 10:32:58 PM »

build is looking EXCELLENT!! very nicely done!

as for the wiring, just take it easy. get the main wiring done first, then add everything after that. Hondaman's installation instructions are very well done, and adding the extra circuits shouldn't be a problem. def. make sure you have good grounds though, and check and double check all connections one at a time before you fire it up. electrical is def. the most annoying/troublesome department.

just remember: if you THINK it's going to be difficult or you will have troubles with it, you usually will.

Tintop · « **Reply #71 on:** July 03, 2011, 05:28:23 AM »

The red connector is covered in another thread (safety switch?), will try and find it (quick search failed so far

)

As you are mixing & matching components from different machines (& the aftermarket) you will need wiring diagrams for each. At this point wire colour means nothing, just wire function. As wannabridin mentioned, start with the basic functions - ignition, start circuit, then work out to the others. On my build I put all the components where they were going to be, then started connecting things together. Mine was completely custom (nothing were is was originally

), so I had diagrams for (but not limited too) - the reg/rec / HID / changed starter system (relay) / Hondaman ignition / and 550 diagrams (different years).

Having a multimeter to test circuits will speed things up. Electrical is not hard, just takes patience, to sort through one wire/connector at a time.

immortal · « **Reply #72 on:** July 03, 2011, 01:43:41 PM »

Thanks guys, greatly appreciated. The whole harness thing is interesting as Carpy who has built hundreds of these bike made it very clear you cannot use a "K" harness on an "F" bike!...he told me he works with his "F" harnesses fixes them up and reuses them. Also a couple of other people told me the same thing. In fact I thought I was being helpful passing that along to other "F" owners with the harness dilemma.

Then in contradition to that lots of people corrected me and said you can use the "K" harness with very minor modification and so here I am.

To me it looks like the process of elimination is going well. I laid them both out on the work bench and worked from the back forward and as I found a match I would tag it. Going back and forth I slowly started
to figure it out. Then when I felt I could go no further on the bench I placed it on the bike, this helped me eliminate a few more.

At the moment I think I have most of everything in place and it was pretty straight forward. Thanks Tintop and yes I figured out that red connector on the "K" models connects to a "starter safety switch" which appears the "F" models do not have. The only other question is again linked to the starter and that would be the starter solenoid. I have the heavy positive and negative from the battery to the solenoid...then two wires the yellow/red and the solid black coming from the "K" harness...so I see these go to the Solenoid.

Somehow I need to figure out what to do with the wires in the red connector? Do I go out and buy a "Starter safety switch" and then plug her in problem solved? or do I need to work with the wires in the red conector...where do they go??....maybe I should post this in the electrical section and see if I can get some help. Thanks again guys...greatly appreciate your time and advise!

Tintop · « **Reply #73 on:** July 03, 2011, 03:07:15 PM »

There is a photo in the thread I mentioned, that shows the red connector being bypassed with a jumper wire across two points. I'll look for it again.

Your battery black ground wire should be going to chassis ground, not the solenoid. The heavy wire from the starter connects to one side, a battery red cable to the other of the solenoid. The black wire connects into the starter switch circuit, and the yellow/red eventually goes to ground by way of the neutral, and clutch switches (safety start).

immortal · « **Reply #74 on:** July 03, 2011, 03:50:20 PM »

Thanks again Tintop, you are really helping me out!

Actually I mis spoke the heavy Solenoid wire was not going to the battery negative I have it coming from the crankcase/starter and connecting to the solenoid. Then I have the positive going to the battery. The battery negative, I have grounded to the frame on the upper rear engine mount so I should be good there.

So I just need to now nail down jumping the red connector and the placement of the yellow/red and then the black...which I am thinking plugs into the solenoid.

Nearly there...Thanks again!

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Author Topic: CAM type and setting HELP! (Read 34571 times)

gsnorcal

gsnorcal