Author Topic: Honda CB750K8 CAFE project (near completion!) (Read 35248 times)

Tintop · « **Reply #100 on:** March 04, 2011, 03:18:35 PM »

Here's a listing

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Switch-light-turn-signal-Honda-crf-crf230-crf450-xr-cr-/310299262276?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483f46fd44

hapakev · « **Reply #101 on:** March 06, 2011, 12:39:12 AM »

Thanks Guys!

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #102 on:** March 12, 2011, 06:23:51 PM »

Pulling out the bearings from the hubs. Not easy without a bearing puller, so we bought one and it made it much easier. Still a bit tricky along the way with having to drill out some stuff to get everything out, but came out great in the end.

climbingaz · « **Reply #103 on:** March 14, 2011, 12:39:26 PM »

I picked up one of those turn signal'horn switches off ebay like the one you have. But what are you going to do about the clutch lever? The OEM switch incorporates the clutch lever into the housing. I haven't been able to find a cheap clutch perch, but I'm probably not searching the right keywords or something.

Tintop · « **Reply #104 on:** March 14, 2011, 02:41:51 PM »

Try searching dirt bike listings, they tend to use a seperate clutch lever.

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #105 on:** March 14, 2011, 06:11:31 PM »

^^^Good point. Haven't even thought about a clutch lever, if you find one let me know

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #106 on:** March 14, 2011, 06:20:30 PM »

i might have a clutch perch off my dirt bike. ill have to dig and try to remember ya.

climbingaz · « **Reply #107 on:** March 14, 2011, 06:51:03 PM »

Quote from: AnthonyMichael on March 14, 2011, 06:11:31 PM

^^^Good point. Haven't even thought about a clutch lever, if you find one let me know

The other issue is the fact that you've got to pull in the clutch for the ignition to start the bike. Not sure if the ebay turn signal/horn switch that we bought incorporates that wiring. I tried just cutting the wire to see if the bike would start without pulling in the clutch lever and NO DICE. So I'll just put the wires back together for the time being. After I get the setup figured out, I'll post back up.

Tintop · « **Reply #108 on:** March 14, 2011, 07:18:49 PM »

Check your wiring diagram. On my 77 550 the clutch is basically wired as an inline switch in the starter circuit. When I rewired the bike I had the choice of leaving or removing (bypass).

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #109 on:** January 04, 2012, 03:44:56 PM »

Major updates.

Sorry for not keeping up with the thread, I had a bunch of art shows come up that just sucked my time away. I also pushed the bike as far as I could possibly take it given I am a complete amateur at this. There were many a walls that I hit where I couldn't possibly get this thing done with my time and lack of tools and knowledge. Just the tip of the iceberg: rear sets were wrong, needed to hydraulic press the bearings and also remove the old ones, seal the tank, figure out the spacing issue on the swing arm, the clearance problems, tuning the carbs to run pods, etc etc

Fortunately, I met David from E3MC (DKB on here) and basically handed her off so he could put the finishing touches on it and make sure everything looks great and most importantly is sound and working correct. My biggest fear is doing the entire bike myself getting on a highway and something goes wrong because I just didn't know. Also David is the perfect person to deal with. Down to earth, realistic & super professional, I knew this was the guy to bring into this project after our first talk.

The cool thing about this bike is it's not the normal mad max style of bike David is known for, so he gets to venture into a slightly different look with this bike.

Looking back already, I realized it was overly ambitious to completely redo a bike top to bottom with zero motorcycle knowledge, not to say I wouldn't do it again, because I've learned heaps and heaps, but realistically you're just setting yourself up for a massive weight on your shoulders when the project starts collecting dust.

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #110 on:** January 04, 2012, 03:57:18 PM »

The bike before we brought it over to the shop

The hubs before they got sent off to be spoked and trued. (David got the bearings in at the shop beforehand)

The tank before it was cleaned and sealed

Drying is such a #$%*...

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #111 on:** January 04, 2012, 04:01:08 PM »

Dave brought up the polishing job a lot better than I did. Those nooks can be a pain if you don't have the proper tool and doing it by hand

Ready to ship off to Buchannon:

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.
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Wow that was fast!

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #112 on:** January 04, 2012, 04:07:56 PM »

At the shop:

Off

On

Engine + CR's post dust off

Tintop · « **Reply #113 on:** January 04, 2012, 04:15:11 PM »

Wow AM, that's really starting to take shape. Your Excel rims look great. Have you decided on a paint scheme?

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #114 on:** January 04, 2012, 04:20:54 PM »

The tank, seat and headlamp were sent off to paint. I wasn't satisfied with the way Benjie had the light put into the seat. It was an ugly light and it wasn't flush. Not ideal at all. David suggested we go with an LED undermount and seal off the hole. I was highly indecisive on the color scheme. I narrowed down my design fairly easily but I had to finally pick a color palette that was pleasing from a design perspective but also from a daily functional angle.

I REALLY wanted to go with a green color scheme. Red was ruled out early on. Midnight blue was the alternative. I wanted the Rickman green to really accent those brown grips and contrast with the black and white contours in the design. I personally think the green is the superior design but on a day to day level I think the blue will have an overall better look that doesn't come off as overtly flashy. Plus I had to take into account what I wear when I ride and the blue will mix much better.

Anyhow here's both of the mockups I did.

I went to a fabric spot in the city and spent a couple of hours picking out the right material for the seat. I went with a really soft, cream pleather. I wanted real leather but I had to take into account added moisture and dyes from my jeans rubbing off.

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #115 on:** January 04, 2012, 04:24:38 PM »

Dr. Motor did the bondo and paint work. I highly recommend him. We handed him the tank on Wednesday and he had it done by Sunday (that was this past Christmas weekend too). He's super easy to work with, sends you photo updates along the way and asks questions. drmotor1@gmail.com if you want to reach out to him. Also backs his work and really wants to keep you happy. He's going to rebuff the clear in 2 months once it's 100% cured to get that extra smooth shine out.

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #116 on:** January 04, 2012, 04:28:39 PM »

I can't believe it's almost done....

wedoo2 · « **Reply #117 on:** January 04, 2012, 04:49:48 PM »

That's beautiful. BOTM material in my book. How does it run?

Dyrden · « **Reply #118 on:** January 04, 2012, 05:17:35 PM »

Looks damn good brother!

frankist · « **Reply #119 on:** January 04, 2012, 06:50:56 PM »

looking very nice. keep up the good work.

AnthonyMichael · « **Reply #120 on:** January 04, 2012, 09:18:06 PM »

Quote from: wedoo2 on January 04, 2012, 04:49:48 PM

That's beautiful. BOTM material in my book. How does it run?

Well it ran perfectly fine before I took it all apart. Once the CR's are tuned properly it should run like a dream.

Tintop · « **Reply #121 on:** January 05, 2012, 11:07:11 AM »

Quote from: AnthonyMichael on January 04, 2012, 09:18:06 PM

Quote from: wedoo2 on January 04, 2012, 04:49:48 PM
That's beautiful. BOTM material in my book. How does it run?
Well it ran perfectly fine before I took it all apart. Once the CR's are tuned properly it should run like a dream.

My thoughts as well wedoo2. Of course dark blues have always been a favourite of mine.

lucky · « **Reply #122 on:** January 05, 2012, 11:34:20 AM »

Quote from: AnthonyMichael on December 09, 2010, 01:45:48 PM

A PM I just received. Figured I'd post it in the thread just in case anyone else had a similar question:

"do you think the muffler hanger can support the muffler without a triangle in it? Give it a try I guess, there's not a lot of weight on the one hand, but then...

Looking good. What swingarm is that?"

The muffler theoretically can be supported without the hanger, we tested it. The only reason it needs to be supported so far back is because the muffler has a removable baffle on it and it would simply fall off or be stolen without the need for tools. Also not supporting it would probably give way to a bend if moved or hit in any way.

The swingarm is a Dresda box swing arm replica made by Carpy.

If the exhaust has no support it will put a lot of downward force at the cylinder head.
And having no rear support will let the entire exhaust system bounce up and down
and all of that force will go on the cylinder head studs.

Blackandsilver · « **Reply #123 on:** January 05, 2012, 08:33:03 PM »

AM... lucky is right. If the rear of your exhaust has any flex to it that will distort the connection of your head, header, and copper exhaust gaskets. At the very least you'll get leaks from that joint. You would be better off attaching the back of your header to the frame than having that muffler attached in the manner it currently is.
Just look at the way old gp bikes have their exhaust hung from a point as vertical as possible on the frame from the muffler bracket. PROTECT YOUR HEAD!!

Win some lose some, it's all the same to me.

brandEn · « **Reply #124 on:** January 05, 2012, 08:52:32 PM »

Just found your build thread and glad I did. Your bike is looking great. I couldn't find if you mentioned the tank your using?

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Author Topic: Honda CB750K8 CAFE project (near completion!) (Read 35248 times)