Topic: Anyone else have chipping issues with VHT engine paint?

[crazypj]

I've never had an issue with VHT, sounds like it's too thick?
Use just enough to get 'colour' then stop.
 Don't use any primer under it

[Freaky1]

I read through the help threads on VHT's website and it was quite helpful. They said there was no need to cure after the primer coat and that you should use their primer. I even sent them a question about the fact my oven only went to 550 degrees, not the recommended 600, and their response was that unless the directions were followed completely then they can't promise anything. While I said I didn't take certain pieces to that temp range anyway this response told me that they wouldn't fudge on guidelines as in their recommendation about curing the primer.

[shaza1020]

I purchased this along with VHT SP100 Primer and Clear for the exhaust on my Harley Davidson. I followed the directions exactly, taking precautions to do everything just as the VHT directions so I wouldn't have to do this over. I completely sanded the parts down, washed the parts in a solvent to clean them, painted them as the directions (multiple coats in the ample time), and baking them on the vehicle. Unfortunately, the paint began to peel off of the header about 5 minutes into the baking process. Then when I took the bike out and rode it, the peeling got much much worse

 I'm thoroughly disappointed in this product, as it failed at about 500 degrees, despite being rated for four times as much..... I wish I could get in touch with someone at the company
 

[przjohn]

I purchased this along with VHT SP100 Primer and Clear for the exhaust on my Harley Davidson. I followed the directions exactly, taking precautions to do everything just as the VHT directions so I wouldn't have to do this over. I completely sanded the parts down, washed the parts in a solvent to clean them, painted them as the directions (multiple coats in the ample time), and baking them on the vehicle. Unfortunately, the paint began to peel off of the header about 5 minutes into the baking process. Then when I took the bike out and rode it, the peeling got much much worse

 I'm thoroughly disappointed in this product, as it failed at about 500 degrees, despite being rated for four times as much..... I wish I could get in touch with someone at the company
 

I have never had a problem with their paint but admit I have only used it on cases and not on an exhaust. Did you use the specific exhaust paint or just the high heat? Did you bake each layer separately or all together, meaning bake color then bake clear? I am sure they must have a customer service number you can get in contact with them.

[flybox1]

I purchased this along with VHT SP100 Primer and Clear for the exhaust on my Harley Davidson. I followed the directions exactly, taking precautions to do everything just as the VHT directions so I wouldn't have to do this over. I completely sanded the parts down, washed the parts in a solvent to clean them, painted them as the directions (multiple coats in the ample time), and baking them on the vehicle. Unfortunately, the paint began to peel off of the header about 5 minutes into the baking process. Then when I took the bike out and rode it, the peeling got much much worse

 I'm thoroughly disappointed in this product, as it failed at about 500 degrees, despite being rated for four times as much..... I wish I could get in touch with someone at the company
 

What solvent did you use?

[przjohn]

I purchased this along with VHT SP100 Primer and Clear for the exhaust on my Harley Davidson. I followed the directions exactly, taking precautions to do everything just as the VHT directions so I wouldn't have to do this over. I completely sanded the parts down, washed the parts in a solvent to clean them, painted them as the directions (multiple coats in the ample time), and baking them on the vehicle. Unfortunately, the paint began to peel off of the header about 5 minutes into the baking process. Then when I took the bike out and rode it, the peeling got much much worse

 I'm thoroughly disappointed in this product, as it failed at about 500 degrees, despite being rated for four times as much..... I wish I could get in touch with someone at the company
 

What solvent did you use?

I'm going to guess this is an Internet Bomb. Something doesn't work out right for someone and they head out to every internet outlet and bad mouth something without first contacting the manufacturer. I wonder what SOHC bikes she owns?

[flybox1]

The issue here IS the bike.  Doesnt happen when used on a SOHC4 Honda 

[Elan]

I have chipping vht, can't remember if I used primer (I think so). My feeling is that at the end of the day, it's still spray paint. Powder coat and never worry about chipping

[Bailgang]

I can only say for myself meaning I'm no expert on paint but I've never ever had any luck when allowing the engine heat itself to cure/bake the paint, it didn't matter what brand of paint or how much heat it was supposed to handle, depending on where it was applied it would either quickly burn off or disappear the moment gasoline or any solvent touched it. That all changed when I started putting the painted components in the oven set at 250 deg and let it "bake" at least for 1 hour .......and that was after I let it set for 24 hrs after I initially painted the parts. That made all the difference in fact the outcome would be even better if I had done a better job prepping. I admit not as good as powder coating but it was a definite improvement.

[CB_Jeff]

While I haven't used their engine paint, I did use their caliper paint.  The painted caliper slipped out of my hand while I was installing it and it dropped about an inch or two and hit the lower fork tube... and chipped.  I also had some issues with the paint on the master cylinder.  Pretty disappointing as I did follow the prep. directions and cured with some heat.  I have to pull those parts off in the spring and repaint them... will probably use a different paint.
-Jeff

[Powderman]

You can also get high temp powder coats, they are very resistant and you have to hit it with a hammer to chip it....
I painted my Boldor 900's engine with VHT and it worked very well, no chips. I heated the engine with a fan forced heater before painting and got an excellent finish.....No baking...


Mick

While we normally see eye to eye on things, I have to disagree with using High Temp Powder. Many of us custom coaters have quit offering it because it is so finicky when it comes to chipping and flaking. You can have a perfect job and the first time you go to a high pressure car wash it will blow off in huge flakes. High temp powders are for applications where the parts are normally subjected to temps as high as 1200*f. I see no need for high temp anything on engine cases. Standard powder coating colors can withstand spikes of 500*f. If you're anywhere near those temps on your engine cases you have serious issues and paint flaking will be the least of them. Powder coating is a great solution, not in the same budget as rattle can, but you'll probably only need to do it once in the lifetime of your motor. If I have an application that needs high temp coating, instead of high temp powder, I will use a ceramic coating instead.

My first thought was it was probably laid on too thick, but you said you used thin coats. Solvent issue has been mentioned a few times here. In my powder coating, the only liquid that gets near anything being coated after it gets blasted is Denatured Alcohol, which flashes off pretty rapidly with no residue.

[Powderman]

Interesting thread.  Exactly why I am not painting my motor black.

Love your avatar, you have too much time on your hands. Lol

[Retro Rocket]

You can also get high temp powder coats, they are very resistant and you have to hit it with a hammer to chip it....
I painted my Boldor 900's engine with VHT and it worked very well, no chips. I heated the engine with a fan forced heater before painting and got an excellent finish.....No baking...


Mick

While we normally see eye to eye on things, I have to disagree with using High Temp Powder. Many of us custom coaters have quit offering it because it is so finicky when it comes to chipping and flaking. You can have a perfect job and the first time you go to a high pressure car wash it will blow off in huge flakes. High temp powders are for applications where the parts are normally subjected to temps as high as 1200*f. I see no need for high temp anything on engine cases. Standard powder coating colors can withstand spikes of 500*f. If you're anywhere near those temps on your engine cases you have serious issues and paint flaking will be the least of them. Powder coating is a great solution, not in the same budget as rattle can, but you'll probably only need to do it once in the lifetime of your motor. If I have an application that needs high temp coating, instead of high temp powder, I will use a ceramic coating instead.

My first thought was it was probably laid on too thick, but you said you used thin coats. Solvent issue has been mentioned a few times here. In my powder coating, the only liquid that gets near anything being coated after it gets blasted is Denatured Alcohol, which flashes off pretty rapidly with no residue.

This is my guy Marc, I've spoken to him at length about his HT powders and he's never mentioned anything about chipping, he would redo it for free anyway if that happened, I think he vapor blasts or bead blasts engine parts before coating, he does lots of engines and is well known for his work...   I will bring this up again with him again, I'm interested to hear what he says, I appreciate your input..   PS, I looked into ceramic and it was way more expensive...

http://www.robertoscustompowder.com.au/gallery-moto/

[Powderman]

I'm sure you've checked out my work and know that I know what I'm doing. You're right, we would redo it for free if it did. That's why I don't use it anymore, the percentage of parts I had to redo for free made pull it from my available powders. I know ceramic is a bit more expensive, but it really shouldn't be. The material is a bit more expensive, but the process is the same

[HondaMan]

I used the Eastwood engine paint on an SL100 and it is a very durable, hard finish.  I used the activator and shot it with a spray gun.  The engine was degreased, bead blasted, washed with soap and water, wiped with paint prep cleaner, primed and painted.  The only problem I have with it is the aluminum color is more gray than silver. 

I wonder what Honda uses to paint their engines at the factory.  All my bikes with factory engine paint look great no matter how old they are.  That paint is tough and durable as long as its not subjcted to a lot of weather.  I've not seen any primer under any factory engine or frame paint.

It was lacquer, back in the 1970s. If we could get it today, it would work great! Thank your local EPA bureaucrat for the loss of this one...

[Retro Rocket]

I'm sure you've checked out my work and know that I know what I'm doing. You're right, we would redo it for free if it did. That's why I don't use it anymore, the percentage of parts I had to redo for free made pull it from my available powders. I know ceramic is a bit more expensive, but it really shouldn't be. The material is a bit more expensive, but the process is the same

You've sparked my curiosity, I wasn't doubting what you were saying, i'm just wondering if there's a process Rob uses when he powders engines because I know he does a lot of them, especially Harley's. His Dad also has the industrial powder coating business out back of his business, he's been doing powders for over 40 years, Rob does all the custom stuff. I've read Harley actually powder some engines as well,  ..?  Not sure how accurate that is.. S&S do though.. I'll post here what method they are using to do engines..

[Powderman]

I'm sure you've checked out my work and know that I know what I'm doing. You're right, we would redo it for free if it did. That's why I don't use it anymore, the percentage of parts I had to redo for free made pull it from my available powders. I know ceramic is a bit more expensive, but it really shouldn't be. The material is a bit more expensive, but the process is the same

You've sparked my curiosity, I wasn't doubting what you were saying, i'm just wondering if there's a process Rob uses when he powders engines because I know he does a lot of them, especially Harley's. His Dad also has the industrial powder coating business out back of his business, he's been doing powders for over 40 years, Rob does all the custom stuff. I've read Harley actually powder some engines as well,  ..?  Not sure how accurate that is.. S&S do though.. I'll post here what method they are using to do engines..

I will add that the biggest issues I've had with HT applications is usually on it's intended purpose on exhaust pipes. It may be more forgiving on an engine block that doesn't see high temps at all. It's not something I would recommend for that application, standard powder would work just fine.

Lately all of H-Ds and S&S powder coat their engines, not paint. I have all the H-D powders in stock, they changed textures through the years. I've seen H-D heads that were powdered up in the rocker boxes and exhaust ports from the factory.