Topic: FFJMOORE CB550 BIG bore engine build.

[Tintop]

Will the 550 studs work in the 500?  If so I should contact Jay.

[Flying J]

Yes they will work for the 500 550 and 650. So if you decide to change the head and cylinders to a 650 hybrid your all set.

[RAFster122s]

True that they will work on a 650 but if I recall correctly, the 650 doesn't use studs in a stock setup.
David

[paulages]

True that they will work on a 650 but if I recall correctly, the 650 doesn't use studs in a stock setup.
David

The 500/550 studs will not work with the 650 jugs and head. That said, the 650 bolts torque to the same values as the APE 500/550 studs.

[Flying J]

I wonder why APE and dynoman list them for the 650 then?

[paulages]

I wonder why APE and dynoman list them for the 650 then?

can't answer that, but I can tell you that the lands for the washer/bolt in the 650 cylinder head are in different places than on the 550 head, not to mention that the 650 cylinder block is taller. Some of them work, but not all.

I have a set from APE that I tried on the 735. Honestly, the only reason I could see to use the studs instead of the OEM bolts, is ease of cylinder installation (the studs help guide the cylinder block on) and not having to worry about stripping out the cyl bolt threads in the cases.

[SF]

any updates? parts?

[Flying J]

not yet, but i bought a new primary chain and im wrapping up my other build and then im going to dive into this motor. I also bought a soda blaster to strip the paint. Not sure what im going to to use for paint yet.

[Tintop]

The VHT engine paints seem to stand up well, and there are some interesting choices.  With all that nice alloy body work polished, maybe the 'colour' belongs on the engine.  Are you going to polish the SS exhaust for the GNRS?

[Flying J]

Only the down pipes are stainless 
The motor is going to stay silver i think but the color for the bike will be on the frame and swing arm.

[Tintop]

That s*cks re the pipes, I was under the impression that they were all SS.

[Flying J]

Thats what i wanted and thought i was getting, but when they were finally finished thats not what they were, and Ill be damned if i was going to wait another 3+ more months to find out if he would do it. For what i paid they are worth it i guess but if i build another bike i will most likely build my own.

[Flying J]

Enough about exhaust lets get back to what you all want to see, ME splitting the case and have crap fall everywhere and freak out. 

So I split the case, easy enough. I split it right side up because i could not figure out why i had heard to split it upside down.
5043

Once i had it split i pulled out the first set of gears out. not sure what each set is called but I pulled the silver end cap off by accident and stuff flew everywhere! Once i stopped cursing and regained my composure i realized that it was a roller bearing. Is that supposed to come apart or do i need a new one?

All the bearing surfaces look fine so i guess i should just order a new set of what was already in there




Is this the spot that the primary chain rubs if its to loose? No rubbing at all but i will replace it anyway.

A few additional questions.

1) is there anything that it is really important for me to check with a micrometer ? Ill  check a few things but being that this motor was pretty low miles i dont think anything should be out of spec.
2) When i SODA blast these is it safe to blast all surfaces i.e. gasket surfaces, bearing surface?
3) Should i take the connecting rods off and replace the bearings or plasigauge them and see if they need to be replaced or just leave them alone?
4) Can i leave all the gear forks and stuff in there as well as all the shifter stuff on the side while i soda blast it. I dont want to take it off if i dont have to. It looks a little intimidating to put back together. So id like to avoid it if possible.

Thanks for any help guys.

[lucky]

yeah for this bike im willing to spend the $$. On my 750 im not. Its been hard to sell because it has a head leak. I think i may pull the motor and replace the gaskets just so i can sell it.

I would not experiment with the cam chain Idea. Too risky.

[Flying J]

Why do you always reply to post that are a million years old? Read the whole thread or skip to the end. But a reply to a post 7 months after it was posted is not very helpful.

[bwaller]

That bearing comes apart, perfectly normal. The primary chain might rub the gallery in the lower case if it was slack enough.

The shifting mechanism somes apart easily, not complicated at all. Then you only need to pull the spring clip & remove the pin that locates the center shift fork on the drum. Take note of fork location and check for rubbing on either side of each fork. I would recommend you completely disassemble before you blast, that way you'll know everything is clean on re-assembly.

Take time to carefully remove all bearing shells (wipe dry then mark location on back side) and then engine case sealant before you plastigage. Actually I prefer to completely clean everything beforehand. To be certain you should check rod big end bearings as well.

I haven't used soda but wise to avoid the gasket surfaces and especially any bearings anyway. Make damn sure everything is blown clean afterwards. If it's completely disassembled bath all parts in varsol and let compressed air work for you. 

Some advice.... replace rod bolts with 13213-KV0-000 and nuts 13214-410-003. These are the better than the 550 bolts. 

Good job, just be meticulous with cleaning and re-assembly.

[fastbroshi]

I'm curious, what are those nuts and bolts from?

[bwaller]

They are just the latest reincarnation of rod bolts & nuts. Listed for the latter 750's but fit the 500/550 rods.

The bolts are a couple threads longer and maintain their thickness through the shaft, plus the nuts have a flange but still threaded straight through.

[Flying J]

Thanks a bunch bwaller. It puts me a little more at ease to have people who know what they are doing following this thread and giving input. Ill add that to my list of parts i need to order from honda, along with new seals and stud bolt nuts.

[Flying J]

Ok bottom case is empty, Used the rear motor mount bolt trick to pull the primary shaft and then the crank came out nice and easy. Having a hard time getting the pin for the center shift fork. What is the trick to getting it out?


Here are the other two shifter forks, how do they look? They dont look very worn to me.

[Flying J]

Ok i got the pin out by leaving it upside down for a while and then putting a magnet under it. It eventually moved enought that i was able to slide it off.  Next on the list is to soda blast the cases and the head.

[bwaller]

The one side of those two forks look perfect.

[Retro Rocket]

yeah for this bike im willing to spend the $$. On my 750 im not. Its been hard to sell because it has a head leak. I think i may pull the motor and replace the gaskets just so i can sell it.

I would not experiment with the cam chain Idea. Too risky.

Its not an experiment Lucky, these bikes are raced with the GSXR chains, they are far stronger than the stock item.....
A quick search of the forum would have had you more informed.....

[Flying J]

DOnt feed the trolls.

[Tintop]

DOnt feed the trolls.