Topic: New project for a first timer CB550 build - Slowly getting back to it!

[SF]

Oh ya I remember this thread...update please.

[bambuhiphop]

Hey Godffery! (And SF) Hope you guys have been well. So, no it's not out of the garage. I had to stop focusing on it because the permits for our house remodel got approved and I had to turn all attention (and finances) to that. We added 900 sq ft onto the house and I did 90% of the work myself. I was originally planning on a 2-3 year remodel plan but COVID didn't help. Kids got bigger and then I changed jobs last year. So, the bike got covered to come back to in the future.

I had gotten it as far as running but then had to stop. I'm never selling this thing so I knew I'd get back around to it.

All that said I actually did start working on it a little recently. Here are a few things I've done...

- I decided to go lithium ion on the battery so I got a new rectifier/regulator to handle that. I also decided to change up the back end a little bit and relocate some electronics. So, I am currently rewiring half the bike.
- I needed a stack down circuit so the gauge would pick up the tach signal. So, I figured out how to design a pcb, had it printed, and got all the parts welded up on it.
- I really started playing with the backend. I've always had the tail light off a 2017 Yamaha FZ09. I've been working out how to better adapt that into the bike without majority altering the frame. So, I picked up a bunch of OEM Yamaha plastics and parts along with designing and 3d printing parts to mount everything up.

I'm attaching two pics but I can try and get some pictures uploaded here in the near future to share with more details. Just been a bit busy and such.

[Godffery]

 Hey great to here you back on this Man!
Totally understand the Life stuff getting in the way of Moto stuff.
 Looking forward to more updates on this beauty!

[bambuhiphop]

Before I had to step away from the bike I had started working out how to get my tach to read the ignition signal correctly. I found a great reference on the forum for a circuit that would do the trick. I was originally going to solder everything myself and make a down and dirty circuit. But then I thought it would be cool to have a PCB made. So, I found a site online where I could create the electrical circuit and convert it to a PCB design that I could tweak. From there I had it printed and then had it micro soldered. I think it turned out pretty cool. It was definitely something new to try!





I also decided to flip the bike over to a Lithium-Ion battery. This meant some new electronics which also meant moving everything around. With finally getting to the rear end layout as well I am basically re-wiring the bike from the tank back. I got a deeper tray, new rec/reg and started over.





I'm starting to get everything cleaned up at this point like this nifty sealed ground bus bar!



This battery has 4 posts so I made a tail for the coils that I can disconnect easily.



I am also working on making a side stand switch so I can't start the bike with it down and so it will kill the bike if it drops while the bike is on. This is my initial mockup. I got real close first try.



Like I mentioned I finally started working out the rear of the bike. I have been attempting to adapt a 2017 Yamaha MT10 without altering the frame. I got a bunch of Yamaha plastics and then got to work creating a 3d printed bracket. This setup gives me great mounting for the aftermarket tail light I have, use of a fender eliminator kit for a license plate mount, and a seat release mechanism. The blue piece in my previous post is a test fit piece. I have little more tweaking to do but the final design is just about done.





I had also previous gotten the final version of the rear master brake cover. This design was inspired by the Wing Logo.



The most recent thing I've been working on is a side cover design. Years ago Godffery got me a cool CAD (cardboard drafting) of the triangle on the side of the bike. I took that and made a 3d printed reference jig. This let me line it up on the bike and use it for further measurements on the computer to create a custom cover. The triangle in the lower corner will be a Honda Wing decal. The 592 Four will be metal printed and refers to the bike actual motor size now. I am attempting to use the factory rubber grommets to hold the bike and the half circle on the back is for the RFID keyless start. Since this is the left side it also has a hole for the C5 ignition timing selector. I'm pretty jazzed about the look but would love feedback on it too!

[Godffery]

 Regarding the Kickstand safety switch:
You might consider having the bike be able to start with the kickstand down, then have it kill if you put it in gear with it still down.
I had a bike that wouldn't allow it to start until the stand was up, and it was a real inconvenience not being able to walk away from the bike with it running even for a moment, especially while warming up the motor before a ride.

[willbird]

Regarding the Kickstand safety switch:
You might consider having the bike be able to start with the kickstand down, then have it kill if you put it in gear with it still down.
I had a bike that wouldn't allow it to start until the stand was up, and it was a real inconvenience not being able to walk away from the bike with it running even for a moment, especially while warming up the motor before a ride.

I have gotten into the habit of only using the kick stand when I buy gas, otherwise I always use center stand. Now and then I will pull into garage and put on kick stand until I get off bike and take helmet off, then onto center stand.

Bill

[calj737]

I have gotten into the habit of only using the kick stand when I buy gas, otherwise I always use center stand. Now and then I will pull into garage and put on kick stand until I get off bike and take helmet off, then onto center stand.

Bill

Pretty sure his bike wont have a cetner stand due to styling modifications. Its a "cafe" styled modern restomod.

[bambuhiphop]

Correct, center stand is long gone. Luckily it’s all being controlled with an M.Unit so I can tweak what the switch does when it does it. I just want the option rather than not.

[willbird]

I have gotten into the habit of only using the kick stand when I buy gas, otherwise I always use center stand. Now and then I will pull into garage and put on kick stand until I get off bike and take helmet off, then onto center stand.

Bill

Pretty sure his bike wont have a cetner stand due to styling modifications. Its a "cafe" styled modern restomod.

Ok, well that is a place I will never go :-).

Bill

[bambuhiphop]

Main wiring tray is basically done. Turned out decent. Could probably better but I think its pretty clean.



I am going to open the headlight bucket back up and rework that wiring a bit. I'm also thinking about swapping out the A breakout box for the B box so I can run an Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, and Air Temp sensor.

I also had to pull the tank off the bike. Both the liner and the paint failed so I am going to have the whole thing stripped, resealed, and repainted. I am also going to see if I can chop the 20mm petcock threads off and replace with an NPT or 22mm so I can have some more petcock options.

The starter motor is also going to be headed to Ricks in the near future. Going to have it rebuilt and have the cable mount converted to a post so I can run a slightly longer cable to where the solenoid is no mounted.

[bambuhiphop]

Decided to add an oil pressure switch. Found a 20mm to 12mm thread reducer with a nice o-ring. Then I located a compact switch with a crush washer. Both thread in nicely. No leaks so far and doesn't stick out past the points cover. Overall I think this will work!

[Godffery]

Decided to add an oil pressure switch. Found a 20mm to 12mm thread reducer with a nice o-ring. Then I located a compact switch with a crush washer. Both thread in nicely. No leaks so far and doesn't stick out past the points cover. Overall I think this will work!

What happened to the original one located on the Oil Pump?

[bambuhiphop]

Decided to add an oil pressure switch. Found a 20mm to 12mm thread reducer with a nice o-ring. Then I located a compact switch with a crush washer. Both thread in nicely. No leaks so far and doesn't stick out past the points cover. Overall I think this will work!

What happened to the original one located on the Oil Pump?

Still there. Running that one to the Oil Switch input on the Motoscope Breakout box B. This new one will go to Oil Pressure input and then I am going to add an Oil temp switch on my drain plug and connect that to Oil Temp input. And then while I'm at it I am going to connect an ambient temp sensor and see if I can't get it on a fin on the colder head.

[Godffery]

Decided to add an oil pressure switch. Found a 20mm to 12mm thread reducer with a nice o-ring. Then I located a compact switch with a crush washer. Both thread in nicely. No leaks so far and doesn't stick out past the points cover. Overall I think this will work!

What happened to the original one located on the Oil Pump?

Still there. Running that one to the Oil Switch input on the Motoscope Breakout box B. This new one will go to Oil Pressure input and then I am going to add an Oil temp switch on my drain plug and connect that to Oil Temp input. And then while I'm at it I am going to connect an ambient temp sensor and see if I can't get it on a fin on the colder head.

Oh My!  You've certainly gone all out on this project!

[bambuhiphop]

Got my starter back from Ricks. It had a nick in the cable and I guess Honda thought it would be a good idea to weld the cable to the starter motor? They converted it to a 1/4" post. Turns out it was also bad on testing so having it rebuilt was a good idea. Just need to build a cable for it and I can install and re-button up that side of the motor. Small thing but I don't think the left cover has been on the bike in like 2 years, haha.

[bambuhiphop]

Got a few things done over the last month...

I added a Quadlock mount with the vibration mount and wireless charging. Works pretty well from testing. And I discovered that the mo.ride app has a landscape mode which is kinda cool. If I am not needing GPS directions then this will be a nice secondary display with some extra "data".





I swapped out my Breakout Box A for a Breakout Box B. This lets me add the Oil Pressure switch (which I posted about already), an Oil Temp switch, and an Air Temp Sensor. The Oil Temp is now my oil drain body and I have the Air Temp sensor tucked in between the cylinder fins under the carbs. I don't have pic of that but the idea here is to get an understanding of "typical" cylinder temp on the outside as a rough measure of correct engine temp. Not nearly perfect and may end up being pointless but trying it is fun!



With changing out the Breakout Box I had to rewire my headlight bucket. While it's still probably not the cleanest it is sooo much better than what I originally did. It still looks crammed but when I put the head light in there is no resistance felt so I am happy with the result.



I have also been trying to finish up my front fender. The issue is that the stock R NineT fender brackets are too short by 20mm or so. I was looking around recently and came across the R12 NineT. It has different fender brackets. I went over to the local BMW showroom and, sure enough, they are taller and I think will work for my needs. The mount points on the forks are the same but the fender mounting is different. BMW does not have a part number listed on the internet for the fender so I am working that out before I commit to picking a new pair of brackets up.





One piece of badder news. haha. I knew I needed to redo my tank but it is actually a bit worse than though. I found a company up in Oregon that will chemically strip the interior and exterior but the bottom of the tank is pinhole rusting. There are at least 25 holes I could find with some quick probing. The plan is to get it stripped asap and then metal sprayed to correct the rust. There is a local company that does the metal spraying and they put a nice epoxy primer that can take paint etc...

Once that is done I will get a new liner in it and I'll be in a good spot until I'm ready for paint. I am also planning on removing the stock petcock threads and replacing with a 22mm HD bung from pixel so I can directly attach a Gas Guzzler petcock. I have also been thinking about a paint color change but that is still just an idea....

[calj737]

With CR carbs, you might not have room for that petcock. Best to test fit BEFORE you send your tank off. You might need to completely relocate the petcock hole as a result.

[bambuhiphop]

With CR carbs, you might not have room for that petcock. Best to test fit BEFORE you send your tank off. You might need to completely relocate the petcock hole as a result.

About 80% sure I will be moving it so it land more squarely between the cylinders and the carbs. I have and email out to Pingel already confirming some dimensions.

[willbird]

Got a few things done over the last month...

I added a Quadlock mount with the vibration mount and wireless charging. Works pretty well from testing. And I discovered that the mo.ride app has a landscape mode which is kinda cool. If I am not needing GPS directions then this will be a nice secondary display with some extra "data".

I have read some thinks about vibration "killing" smart phone cameras, has me leery about fastening any phone I do not want to destroy to the bars. I have a fairing on my bike that has leather covers held on with straps, was going to modify a mount I bought to hang onto one of those straps. We use some cameras at work that read 3D bar codes, they use what the mfg calls a "liquid lens" to focus, thinking the phones may have  the same tech in the cameras maybe ??

Have thought about getting a cheap throwaway android phone to use as on bike display for GPS and such.

Bill

[Stev-o]

The wiring within the headlight bucket is 5x better than what Honda did!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The wiring within the headlight bucket is 5x better than what Honda did!

Definitely

[bambuhiphop]

The wiring within the headlight bucket is 5x better than what Honda did!

Definitely

You guys are very kind, haha.

[bambuhiphop]

So the failure of my tank was quite a bit worse than I thought. There are probably 300(ish pin holes throughout the tank. It looks like the liner peeled away more than I thought and the ethanol just ate the tank. Figured this out after I sent it to a place in Oregon where they baked it and then dipped it. I then took it to a local welder but its too thin in a lot of spots to weld with that kind of heat and was just creating new holes. It may be a lost cause but I am going to try and save it.

I started by looking into Bondo. I came across their Extreme Metal product that looked quite promising but I wanted to see if there were any different approaches. Researched up on brazing but didn't want to get the metal that hot. I ended up landing on silver soldering. I picked up some 95/5 acid core solder and have been drilling out the holes with either a 3/32, 3/64, or 1/16 bit. The process seems to be working so far. Even if this fails I figure I get to work on my soldering skills. I may also put a layer of the Bondo Metal stuff down after, for extra good measure, but I'll cross that bridge later. Then the plan is to finish with Caswell on the interior. My hope is between the soldering, bondo, and Caswell the tank will do gas tank things.

[newday777]

So the failure of my tank was quite a bit worse than I thought. There are probably 300(ish pin holes throughout the tank.

You could use it for a star show at night for kids!

[calj737]

Filling those pinholes is unnecessary if you line the tank with Caswell. The liner will close all the holes. You could, afterwards surface the outer skin or gently sand it smooth to flatten any liner that oozes out.