Topic: New clutch, extremely stiff?

[Arechtin9]

Hey guys, i searched around on the forum and saw some things along the lines of this but i wanted to ask everyone for the opinion.  I bought a new clutch from Cycle X which came with new steels and friction plates and I bought new springs as well. Installed it according to my manual and now the clutch is extremely stiff to wear i cant even pull it in.  I've tried adjusting it by the case and up on the bars but no luck. Any one else ever have this problem or can tell me what  i did wrong? thanks.

[Mainerider]

If your cable isn't binding then most likely you need to crack it open again and double check your install work. If its not an external issue (cable, adjustor armn etc) then something internally is preventing the clutch disks and steel plates from parting ways. Did you follow a manual or did you free-style? Sure they are the proper disks?  Not fully familiar with your bike but it could be something is binding up in the pressure plate area. Hard to know w out peeking in. Just be sure you truly eliminated the lever, cable, clutch cover arm from the list of suspects first. Good luck and please pass on what you find.

[Mainerider]

PS
I now see that you did use a manual.

[bollingball]

Mainerider: How could you be familar with his bike? He didn't say. Arechtin9 did you get heavey springs? Even so it should move but harder.+1 on what Maine said.

[Arechtin9]

bike is a 76 cb750k and yeah i used a manual, as far as the product itself, i the kit came with new steels and friction plates and yes i got heavy duty springs which i know will stiffen the pull up but not the point of what it is at..As far as the install, i followed the manual to what it says soooo? Is there anything special with the installation of the arm itself with the lock nut..the threads feel a little rough and the nut gets stuck on the bolt itself and doesnt allow the adjusting arm to turn either way.

[OneWheelDrive]

I made a pretty silly mistake when reassembling my clutch lever when putting on drag bars, this may or may not have happened to you.  After reassembly the clutch seemed very heavy.  Turns out the 10mm hex bolt that the clutch lever pivots on doesn't need to be tightened all the way.  If over tightened, the lever body will pinch down on the lever and you won't be able to move it.  I backed it out about a half turn and tightened the lock nut under the lever and the problem was solved.  Hope your problem is as simple.

[Mainerider]

Mainerider: How could you be familar with his bike? He didn't say. Arechtin9 did you get heavey springs? Even so it should move but harder.+1 on what Maine said.

I assumed he was posting about a SOHC model; So, while I'm not familiar with his personal bike I do have a general understanding of these clutch designs.

[Arechtin9]

Is the locknut supposed to be tightened all the way down? the lock nut doesnt spin on the threads cleanly...if you spin the lock nut, the adjuster spins as well..

[Mainerider]

Is the locknut supposed to be tightened all the way down? the lock nut doesnt spin on the threads cleanly...if you spin the lock nut, the adjuster spins as well..

The lock nut should back up snugly against the adjustor arm plate.  Without a pic it's hard to see what you have going on there. Can you reach down to the clutch arm while squeezing the clutch lever?  Can you feel any pulling tension on the cable itself?

Regardless whether you had the cable very loose or tight you should still be able to pull the clutch lever in.  I think you have something binding inside that clutch cover.  You might want to crack a cold one, grab the manual and go over it step by step again, starting with the clutch cover adjustor arm (especially on the inside of the cover) and work your way deeper as needed.  These are fairly straight-forward designs; a deep breath and a second look should solve the mystery.

[Arechtin9]

I decided to post some pictures to give a better view of whats going on so hopefully this help.  First off, im confused on the installation of the clutch. My clymers doesnt look like anything like my clutch assembly and i've heard that some people say clymers thinks all the CB clutchs are the same which i guess isnt the case.  I got a "clutch kit" from Cycle X which came with 6 steels and 8 friction plates.  Friction plate first, steel, etc. until it gets to the end with a steel then friction and have one extra friction whichs tabs are a little longer than the other frictions so the last two plates of the assembly are frictions..does this sound familiar to anyone?  the other thing that worries me is the adjuster bolt and locknut. The adjuster bolt threads are rough and the locknut does not spin onto the bolt freely..when i tighten the nut, the whole bolt spins which im pretty sure isnt right becasue then the bolt isn't adjusted correctly...Anyone able to help me out???

[Arechtin9]

and its not letting me upload my pictures of it sooo maybe no pictures.

[Dusthawk]

Sounds to me like you have one too many friction plates. Two friction plates should not go together. Remove one and see how that works.

[Mainerider]

Dusthawk is correct. For your bike, you should have 6 identical drive plates plus 6 steel driven disks, PLUS the 1 larger diameter drive plate.  Upon reassembly, the larger drive plate is installed first, then a steel disc, then a drive plate, etc. Your last one installed should be a drive plate.  Hope that helps.

Joe

[Arechtin9]

any idea about the adjusting bolt? would that affect the play at all?

[Mainerider]

any idea about the adjusting bolt? would that affect the play at all?

See above. 14 in your clutch pack is one too many.

[Arechtin9]

last question..i got "heavy duty" springs and not sure how far you tighten them down?

[Mainerider]

Same as stock. I seem to recall 9-11 lbs. But absolutely double-check with your Clymer manual.

[KRONUS0100]

ont he 750 clutches, the adjuster/actuator dtent piece with the 3 balls in it will only go in 1 way...if not correct the cluch will be very stiff if it even works at all.