Topic: 350f issues

[nk140]

What am I looking for on the boots?

clamps not tight/bad seal/old cracked rubber = air leak

Ok I will take a look at that as well.

[flybox1]

with the bike running, spray WD40 on each of the boots, @ where it connects to the head and carbs. if the rpms change, you've found your leak

[nk140]

well I have come to the conclusion that my starting troubles is a carb issue.  The bike will not start unless I leave the fuel on for about 30 minutes or so.  Once started it will run on only 2-3 and no fuel is getting to 1-4 and will die if I take it off full choke.  I will be taking the carbs off the bike tonight unless anyone can think of anything else.

[nk140]

well I took the carb bowls off and they all had fuel in them albeit a small amount in the outer carbs.  I will be dismantling the carbs in the next few days.

[333]

While you're in this far, you might check the flow from the tank(fuel line, screen in the petcock...), and maybe the vent in the gas cap.

[nk140]

I think I found the problem....The main jets and the emulsion tubes were clogged.  What causes the white crystalline build up in the carbs?

[hondamatteo]

corrosion of the aluminium? Clean them up really well (may require a dunk of some kind to to get all the corrosion out) and try again.

[nk140]

I will be cleaning them up really well tonight...I ordered a set of carb rebuild kits as well.  Hopefully I will have this thing running on All four cylinders next week.

[flybox1]

I ordered a set of carb rebuild kits as well.

brand makes a big difference here.  if you got Keyster kits, reuse your original jets, needles, and emulsion tubes and just poach the soft parts, as jet sizing and needle taper have been known to be different than the originals, making tuning a b!otch..

[nk140]

they are K&L carb kits...which I assume the K stands for Keyster?