Topic: Carb "Holder" won't stay in Carb "Arm"

[Goldbug]

Ok, not sure on exact terminology here, and I think I know the problem but just want to check.

The carb arm that actually opens the slide is supposed to have the pin pressed into it, right? I think that's my problem. I've never had carbs that far apart before so I don't know but the other carbs seem to be more secure as if the pin is attached to the arm and not just sitting in a hole. I'm talking about the pin with the ball on the end that inserts into the adjustable holder. I wish I knew what these things were called exactly. But does what I'm saying make sense?

Anyway, mine pops off if you adjust it too much (like while syncing) and also did so once while riding. I thought I had low compression in that cylinder but since the throttle wasn't opening there's a good chance the cylinder is fine and my problem is and always was carbs.

I paid someone $250 three years ago to rebuild these things but they sat on a shelf and I didn't realize what a BAD JOB this person did until now. At least I learned a very, very valuable lesson: I can #$%* up my bike for free instead of paying somebody else to #$%* it up.

Also the part called "dust plate" is the stupidest part Honda ever made. I have four of them. One is OK, one is cracked and two are broken (these started off as cracked). I could make a stronger one out of a #$%*ing soda can.

[Goldbug]

Ok, just so everyone knows exactly what I am talking about...

Red thing is not permanently attached to blue thing. Red thing is inserted into green thing. I thought I could push red thing into blue thing but it doesn't want to stay. Green thing becomes detached from blue thing and the throttle is stuck closed.

So just to clarify, that is of course not normal for red thing not to be attached to blue thing? And there's no real way to get them to be attached again?

I do have spare blue things but they're on another set of carbs.

[tomkimberly]

Looks like you need to flip the rubber retainer over.

Tom

[Goldbug]

That picture is out of a manual.

[Frostyboy]

Using your terminology, the red thing should be as one with the blue thing. Take the linkage to pieces & have someone weld it back into the blue thing & you should be good to go.
How that became loose is beyond me, but I'm pretty sure you'll be able to fix it.
The rubber is simply a dust seal, mine are pretty hard & probably not doing much of a job, but I doubt many are as supple as back in the 70's.

[Goldbug]

My dust seals are nice and rubbery.

Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I have another blue thing off another set of carbs.

Is it possible to get the blue thing out without separating the carbs from one another? This is the regarding the linkage on the #4 carb. So far I have not taken carbs apart to this point, just worked inside the bowls.

[Frostyboy]

Is it possible to get the blue thing out without separating the carbs from one another?

Ah no. That's gonna be a matter of dismantling the rack unfortunately.

[Goldbug]

I didn't have to take the entire rack apart, just unscrewed them from the backing plate and was able to wiggle the #4 carb body free. The carbs are now fixed and about 98% put back together.

[Goldbug]

Just one more quick question, when bench syncing the carbs how many turns should the throttle stop screw be in from just resting against the plate, if any?

[Rgconner]

Bench sync you turn it in till it is at 3000rpm on tach.

As you get them in sync, it will likely rev higher and you will need to back off.

Remember to calibrate your tool. Hook each of the four vac tubes to the same carb and make sure they read the same on that one carb.

If they are not, adjust as necessary.

[Goldbug]

I didn't think "bench" syncing was with the carbs on the bike. I meant the 1/16" drill bit method you use to start out before the carbs go back on the bike. Should the throttle stop be turned in at all?

[Rgconner]

I didn't think "bench" syncing was with the carbs on the bike. I meant the 1/16" drill bit method you use to start out before the carbs go back on the bike. Should the throttle stop be turned in at all?

Ignore me, typing a reply at 12:30AM because I am insomniac is not something I should do on an advice board...

[Goldbug]

It's cool. I figured it out. Sort of. At least I now have a better understanding of "bench syncing" anyway. And know the right size bit to use.

But I still have a question. You use the throttle stop screw to set the #4 carb at 1/8" but what about the carb itself before messing with the screw, meaning, if it's out of whack to begin with and you use the stop screw to set it to 1/8" you'll have less adjustment in one direction or the other. SO is there a rule of thumb for the syncing screws on each carb before you get started (like the body of the screw should be flush with the arm, something like that...)?