Topic: Removing and installing a crankshaft/alternator rotor

[MCRider]

Some time ago there was a thread about holding the crank while tightening the rotor bolt. The concensus was to put it in gear and crank down the rear brake, either with a helper, or by turing the adjuster nut.

The disagreement revolved around which gear to use. Some said low, some said high. Frankly i don't remember which side i came down on, I just know there were those that said i was wrong. So both sides were represented.

My closing statement was simply, if you're there, use trial and error and pick the gear that holds the best.  I have since done it for myself on my current project and have the definitive answer.

Its is beyond a doubt 5th gear that you should use. I used first and could only get halfway to my torque goal before the clutch began slipping. In 5th gear, I could get to the lower level of the range, then the clutch would slip. But that's good enough as I have a lightened rotor. I do have Barnett clutch springs.

If one would want to get to the higher range, one may need to do it on the bench and shove something in the transmission gears.

To get the rotor off while still on the bike, use fifth, the brake, and an electric impact, if a breaker bar causes the clutch to slip. The shock of the impact is good for a tighter bolt. However my same electric impact could not get the torque up to the acceptable range and the breaker bar/torque wrench was needed.

I'll put this in Tricks and Tips.

[lumberjack_964]

Hi all!
I have found a very useful method to removing (and possibly intsalling, havent put things back together yet) the alternator from the crankshaft. When the crankshaft is installed into the engine caseings and the rods are connected and protruding from the case (cylinder assembly removed and pistons disconnected from connecting rods) insert a rod (engine hanger bolt works well) through all the holes where the pistons connect to the connecting rods. You will have to rotate the crank until you can get all the holes to line up. When the rod is inserted into the connecting rods it will hold the crank in place while you remove/install the rotor. You might want to have someone hold the rod in place to keep it from vibrating out of place.

[Kickstart]

Hi all!
I have found a very useful method to removing (and possibly intsalling, havent put things back together yet) the alternator from the crankshaft. When the crankshaft is installed into the engine caseings and the rods are connected and protruding from the case (cylinder assembly removed and pistons disconnected from connecting rods) insert a rod (engine hanger bolt works well) through all the holes where the pistons connect to the connecting rods. You will have to rotate the crank until you can get all the holes to line up. When the rod is inserted into the connecting rods it will hold the crank in place while you remove/install the rotor. You might want to have someone hold the rod in place to keep it from vibrating out of place.

I know this is an old topic, but I wanted to know if you actually did this.

I want to re-install my rotor before I rebuild the head (I just finished putting the cases back together), but... thinking through what you described, I foresee some problems.

Since the pistons and jugs aren't there to hold everything in place, wont the crank just rotate until the rods hit the top of the engine case?  And 73 ft/lbs on the crank would be a little over twice that where the rods come to rest against the case, right?

... And, wouldn't the leverage arm on the rods themselves be very short (couple of inches) which would cause the forces on that bolt to be very high?  I'm worried some bending would happen that could cause a problem.  For instances, wouldn't the rods have a tendency to twist a little sideways as the bolt/rod bends a little?

Or, am I over-thinking this?

Thanks,
Chris