Topic: How to remove those carbs without the swear words.

[HondaMan]

It's a well-known fact that girls like guys who don't swear all the time, so if you want to be "in" with her, try this method of removing the carbs next time: insert a breaker bar or long pipe across the face of the carbs, put a rag around the end where it contacts the head, and pull.

[putnaja1]

I've also seen guys heat the rubber tubes between the head/intakes and the carbs with a heat gun to make the rubber a little more plyable.  I gotta try the breakerbar method next time I pull off my carbs!  Now if only there was a trick to getting the V-Four carbs off!  I think a few swear words are still required for those! 

Jason

[AntiRiceCRX]

i usually unhook the fuel lines and cables, wiggle the carbs up and down and they pop right out, you guys sure you loosened the screws for the clamps? haha

[chung]

The trick is slipping that bar through the frame to install them. Taking #$%* apart is easy, reinstalling it can be.......

[Jonesy]

The 750... HA! THAT'S EASY!!!!

What I REALLY wanna see is how to reassemble the 550 carbs/airbox without swear words!

[6adan]

If you think removing and installing the carbs on a SOHC 750 is bad you should try it on a DOHC 750 with stock air box, it makes the SOHC seem like a walk in the park.Dannie

[jdpas29]

i have the best trick for getting them back on fellas....  after many swear words and numerous adult beverages i realized that the best way to get them back on was to put two of the intake rubbers on the block and the other two on the carbs.  in other words.  on the left side of the carbs put 2 rubber boots.  and on the right side, put 2 rubber boots on the block.  make sure they are turned the right way to match up to the angle that the stems are at.  this takes a lot of the wiggling and shoving out of the job.

[puppytrax]

What I REALLY wanna see is how to reassemble the 550 carbs/airbox without swear words!

I managed to get the carbs back on my CB500 without too much trouble...I assembled everything on the bench; carbs, isolators, manifolds & clamps...left the airbox boots off, stuck the airbox over the carb inlets, and pushed/twisted everything in place...snugged up the manifold nuts, pushed the airbox back against the frame, inserted the airbox boots into their respective holes 1 by 1, folding them to get them on the box first, then push over the carb inlets...no cussing, no breaker bars, and a minimum of skin lost (hey -  it grows back!)...not a fun job, but do-able...

Only problem is, now my carbs are slow/sticking again...argh!!!...

[motorcycleclaude75]

Hey Puppytrax,

The way you described the procedure is exactly how I put mine back on.  But did I ever swear getting them off.  Now I know the easy way the next time I have to do it.

This way only works if your boots are in good condition (pliable) because if they are dry, they will tear.

Claude

[gasguzler]

Have I missed something here?? I lever off my carbs with a full wooden broomstick - one end on the floor the other end is used to pry that sucker out tout suite my friends... no muss no fuss, no risk to my hand modelling gig.... 

Works well for sliding those carbs back into the boots once you're done, after I've hooked it all up and jiggled it into place.

Swearing part kicks in once I realize one of my needles is still *$%k'n jamming....

p.s. my wife STILL sticks around 

[SuperVel]

Since the subject is carbs on the 750, when can you tell the rubber tubes to the cylinders are too far gone to keep?  Mine are somewhat supple but aged.  do they have to feel like stone before you change them? 

Thanks and take care

Marty

[Bob Wessner]

If they are not cracked and still seal well, I'd say they are OK. I don't know if it helps any, but I occasionally spray some silicone on a clean rag and wipe mine both outside and inside (whenever the carbs have to come off).

[HondaMan]

Now, there's a tip worth remembering!

[puppytrax]

This is a copy of a post I made in another <gasp!> Forum...

Dis-assembly = CB500/CB550

- Take off the side cover, battery band, and disconnect & remove the battery
- Disconnect fuel lines at tank petcock
- Take off the seat, tool tray, and gas tank
- Unbolt & remove the battery frame and air cleaner box
- Unscrew throttle cable adjusting nuts and remove throttle cables
- Unscrew and remove all 8 carb insulator clamps
- Unscrew & remove all 4 airbox bootie clamps
- The airbox should now be loose in the frame; poke the booties carefully back into the airbox one at a time. Take care not to tear them. Remove them from the airbox as you poke them through.
- Remove 8 manifold nuts & washers.
- Pry/pull carbs & manifold off engine. Push carb inlets into airbox to get extra room to rotate carbs downward to valley and wiggle them out of the frame. Watch for bowl vents lines and fuel lines getting caught while removing.
* - On the CB500, the left manifold has the clutch cable passing through the carb rack-to-manifold space. It's wise to separate that manifold from the carb rack before trying to extricate the carbs. I leave that manifold bolted on and pop the insulators and carb rack off it.

Re-assembly

- Lube carb spigots with silicone or similar lube [I used Vaseline] to make it easier to pop the insulators on. I also use Vaseline to hold the new manifold o-rings in place. Place airbox in frame; wiggle carb rack into frame, placing carb inlets in airbox holes to gain room and lever carbs/manifold up and onto head studs. [For CB550, install left manifold on head and route clutch cable before popping carbs in place]. Replace nuts & washers.
- Replace airbox booties one at a time, starting with either #2 or #3. Silicone spray works well here. Fold the bootie to get it in place, then carefully tug, pull, push, and poke the bootie in place with the lip in the airbox and the mouth over the carb. It's a trial & error process, but the learning curve is quick. Next do the two outer booties. When all are in place, rotate the two outer booties (the angled ones - you did notice that two were straight and two were angled, didn't you?) until the "casting lines" on the bootie are at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. I do the same for the two interior booties just for uniformity sake.
- Replace all 8 manifold insulator clamps
- Replace all 4 bootie clamps
- Replace throttle cables and adjust.
- Replace air cleaner box, battery frame, battery, seat, gas tank, fuel lines, and anything else that you may have also taken off.

This is all over-simplified, and if I left something out, my apologies.

As noted elsewhere, a light smear of silicone [I used Vaseline] on the spigots will ease their removal next time...

With practice, you can get removal time down to less than 20 minutes. And you will have plenty of practice, I assure you...

I hope this is some help! 

[grandelatte]

It's a well-known fact that girls like guys who don't swear all the time, so if you want to be "in" with her, try this method of removing the carbs next time: insert a breaker bar or long pipe across the face of the carbs, put a rag around the end where it contacts the head, and pull.

mine was stuck so BAD, your method didn't work.  i had to use a motorcycle ratchet tie-down to pull the carb body off.

(sorry this is a real old thread, but i hope someone will benefit from this.)

[Don R]

For putting them back on, I lube them with silicone grease, put a 2x4 across the faces of the carbs and insert a pry bar to the board from above through the frame using the frame as a fulcrum. Pull back and they pop right on, I think the grease helps seal them too.

[Hush]

Use a ratchet tie-down and a thin piece of steel like a metal ruler, slide the metal bar in behind the carbs where they hook onto the airbox rubbers now run the tie-down from one end of the bar right around the front of the frame and back to the other end of the bar.
Cinch up the ratchet and the carbs will slide on evenly.
Removal can be done by reversing this method and running the tie-down toward the back of the bike, the carbs will pull off easily.

[KeithB]

I don't get it...what's the fun of wrenching without a few choice swear words now and then

[TomC]

Hi Group
     I agree with KeithB.
     For putting carburetors back on I have two wood working clamps. I use them to apply pressure at both ends of the carburetor rack as I wiggle the carburetor rack on.
     I keep several old wood broom handles in the garage. They come in handy.
     This thread will soon be 4 years old.
      TomC in Ohio

I don't get it...what's the fun of wrenching without a few choice swear words now and then

[sda619]

wow i know this is an old thread, I've tried everything and i cant get the #*$in things off. I dont want to damage anything but i guess its going to have to get ugly. besides leverage techniques described below is there any other "trick" people use?

[GammaFlat]

You may want to heat the insulators with a hair dryer. 

[OldSchool_IsCool]

wow i know this is an old thread, I've tried everything and i cant get the #*$in things off. I dont want to damage anything but i guess its going to have to get ugly. besides leverage techniques described below is there any other "trick" people use?

Despite the title of this thread, I'd go ahead and use some swear words.  They do double duty: Releases some of your frustration so you are less likely to reach for the hammer, AND get you in fine form for golf season!

[Hush]

Having a mate or your missus (if she's bike savvy) give you a hand helps big time, run a jack handle or some thin pipe across the front of the carbs and both push back, usually frees them.
Using the trailer tiedown was my most successful and non time wasting way to pop mine off.
Squirt some lube onto the isolators as well, they are probably cracked and hard by now.

[GammaFlat]

I like using the handle of a baseball bat for prying them out.... no padding required.  If that doesn't work out you can always turn around the bat and beat something up with the bat instead of swear. 

[somesuch]

For putting them back on, I lube them with silicone grease, put a 2x4 across the faces of the carbs and insert a pry bar to the board from above through the frame using the frame as a fulcrum. Pull back and they pop right on, I think the grease helps seal them too.

that is what do as well, plus head them a bit with a heat gun.....very easy.

--Nick