Topic: Headlight rip-off

[Johnie]

So I stopped at my dealer to see how much a headlight would cost and he said $100, but $88 with my discount. I said you got to be kidding. He said Honda does not sell just the headlight and you have to buy it in the assembly? What the heck??? So I will stop at the local NAPA to see what they have. Someone said the Stanley 7 inch light is still around. Where you buying them?

[HonderCB]

ive seen a how to somewhere before on converting to a changeable bulb, but youd have to do some searching around as i dont remember where, or if it was even on this board

[MCRider]

I could argue his explanation, but its moot. Motogrid lists the sealed beam only at $82. With no price at all on the complete assy. And you've still got a low-tech 40 yr old sealed beam.

Bottom line, we were telling people back in the 70s to get it from an autoparts store. There was some discussion that a MC sealed beam had a different reflector pattern than an automotive one. But for the price difference, auto = $20 I think, OCICBW,, who cares.

It might be time for you to buy a non-sealed beam lens, I have a CIBIE, don't know if they are still availalble, with a true MC lens, and replaceable H4 bulbs. Which would run about $5 to $10 I think. Pop for a hondaMan relay and you'll know what a headlight should really be!

Of course unless your really ride a lot, you'll probably never replace the H4 in your lifetime.

[72500john]

dont know if the bulbs are the same between the 500 and 750..why would they be different? but got just the bulb from western hills honda for 10 bucks.

[dhall57]

Johnie, last year for my K6 I bought a Sylvania Performance H6024 sealed beam at Advance Auto for $15.99. Works great and throws out good light . $88.00 with your discount I think somebodies bumped there head

[MCRider]

dont know if the bulbs are the same between the 500 and 750..why would they be different? but got just the bulb from western hills honda for 10 bucks.

motogrid lists the sealed beam (technically not a bulb) for the 500 at $8! Amazing.

The CB750 at $80+. Don't ask me why the different price. I do think they are not interchangeable, like the 500 beam is a 5.75" vs a 7" maybe. Though i don't know this for a fact. They are different part numbers.

Anyway, you've still got a puny headlight by today's standards, but at $8 if you don't ride at night, no need to do more.

The auto H6024 is the quick fix for a 750. At less than $20.

[vames]

Get a Motorcycle DOT certified reflector from Bosch for $24.99

http://store.candlepower.com/fco7h4mohebd.html

And order an appropriate heavy duty H4 bulb for $16

http://store.candlepower.com/rose12v60h4h.html

[MCRider]

Get a Motorcycle DOT certified reflector from Bosch for $24.99

http://store.candlepower.com/fco7h4mohebd.html

And order an appropriate heavy duty H4 bulb for $16

http://store.candlepower.com/rose12v60h4h.html

Wow, nice stuff, with a MC lens and everything! That alone is a big upgrade over stock.

If one had the extra, hooking up a relay will really optimize a set up like that, without taxing the charging system. (I think).

[MCRider]

If price is no object and retro is desired, go for one of these:
http://www.triumphrat.net/club-cafe/169816-classic-concave-7-cibies.html

Mine is a convex unit. I remember these concave ones. Really gets the looks in the parking lot.

H4 compatible. BTW you can get H4s in ultra high illegal candlepower. Set the trees on fire.

[Tews19]

Get a Motorcycle DOT certified reflector from Bosch for $24.99

http://store.candlepower.com/fco7h4mohebd.html

And order an appropriate heavy duty H4 bulb for $16

http://store.candlepower.com/rose12v60h4h.html

I ordered the one Vames has provided. Got a bulb for like 10 bucks I think... Big difference during the night.

[MrGardman]

That is one of the only changes on my K1 from stock. I used one of those kits, I think Cibie, that converts the sealed beam to a H4 bulb. It made such a huge difference over the sealed beam for night riding, that it is now a pleasure to be out at night with the bike.

[Johnie]

Well, I never ride at night around here because of the deer. So not to concerned about the candle power for night driving. I was concerned about getting something that was to hard on the charging system and wiring. I wanted to stick with a sealed beam unit.

[Dave K]

OMG, I am still running my original headlight. Should I get another bulb and save this one that I think is marked Koto or something like that.

[MCRider]

Well, I never ride at night around here because of the deer. So not to concerned about the candle power for night driving. I was concerned about getting something that was to hard on the charging system and wiring. I wanted to stick with a sealed beam unit.

Well, as dhall57 says, sounds like your the candidate for the automotive solution H6024 sealed beam for <$20. Should be a slam dunk.

And as I said that's what we always told customers to do anyway, even when they were current models. We didn't stock the Honda items for that reason.

The Bosch and CIBIE lens are fun. They have a really crisp line of illumination. Straight ahead, its a horizontal line, out front, then at about the edge of the road on the right, the light goes up at a 60° angle and everything, like deer, is illuminated. Then the highbeam shoots straight ahead way out, into an "X", in the center of the lane. Really cool.

The stock beams are just a blob of light. Then the high beam is a brighter blob of light.

The problem with deer is even with the light they may be travelling at a high rate of speed into your lane and you can't get stopped or avoid them, whether you can see them or not. 

I don't think there is any extra draw on the system, if you use the same watt H4 as the watt on the sealed beam. Its just a more efficient light. And the relay makes it more efficient.

But I'll defer to anyone who knows elect more than me, which is nearly everyone.   

[Tews19]

Well, I never ride at night around here because of the deer. So not to concerned about the candle power for night driving. I was concerned about getting something that was to hard on the charging system and wiring. I wanted to stick with a sealed beam unit.

Well, as dhall57 says, sounds like your the candidate for the automotive solution H6024 sealed beam for <$20. Should be a slam dunk.

And as I said that's what we always told customers to do anyway, even when they were current models. We didn't stock the Honda items for that reason.

The Bosch and CIBIE lens are fun. They have a really crisp line of illumination. Straight ahead, its a horizontal line, out front, then at about the edge of the road on the right, the light goes up at a 60° angle and everything, like deer, is illuminated. Then the highbeam shoots straight ahead way out, into an "X", in the center of the lane. Really cool.

The stock beams are just a blob of light. Then the high beam is a brighter blob of light.

The problem with deer is even with the light they may be travelling at a high rate of speed into your lane and you can't get stopped or avoid them, whether you can see them or not. 

I don't think there is any extra draw on the system, if you use the same watt H4 as the watt on the sealed beam. Its just a more efficient light. And the relay makes it more efficient.

But I'll defer to anyone who knows elect more than me, which is nearly everyone.   

My charging system is not taxed. Haven't noticed any difference

[MCRider]

OMG, I am still running my original headlight. Should I get another bulb and save this one that I think is marked Koto or something like that.

I bought a completely original CB77 once, still have it. I was crushed when I found that the low beam of the sealed beam was burned out. NA from Honda. So I would have to buy aftermarket. The only thing on it that's not original.   

So if that's an issue, I would pull that sealed beam and sock it away and put in a replacement.

PS: the battery is not original either.

[MCRider]

TEWS: Thanks for that. Mine never seemed to be taxed either. I ran the 100/55w bulb. Of course the 100 was seldom used except at speed for brief periods.  I think its all right, completely.

[Rigid]

It is the deer you don't see that get you........

[crazypj]

Some of the sealed beam units have the mountings directly on the reflector and some come as a pir of shaped 'rings' with screws to hold a 'conventional' light unit.
500 AFAIK, just has a pair of tabs welded to reflector and a third tab for direction adjustment

[Hondawggie]

Yamaha RD sealed beams same ripoff.  Basically the replaceable bulb style might be the most flexible solution.  Maybe if you are showing the bike or restoring with intent to sell you have to buy the stock sealed beam but thats very few of us.  The freight charge from Japan for one sealed beam is not $70 and the mfg costs must be low since the tooling is paid for and they are mass produced, it must be a real profitable item.

[MCRider]

Yamaha RD sealed beams same ripoff.  Basically the replaceable bulb style might be the most flexible solution.  Maybe if you are showing the bike or restoring with intent to sell you have to buy the stock sealed beam but thats very few of us.  The freight charge from Japan for one sealed beam is not $70 and the mfg costs must be low since the tooling is paid for and they are mass produced, it must be a real profitable item.

As hinted elsewhere, many sealed beams are unique to that model and must be bought from the OEM or aftermarket OEM replica. Using the auto beam, and the auto style reflector with replaceable bulb is only possible on the 7" lights like the 750, the 450 that uses the 750 frontend, maybe a few other Hondas. I'm sure this same problem exists in other brands.

Completely a WAG, but i'd bet the RD isn't one that will accept the auto style sealed beam.   

[grcamna2]

Well, I never ride at night around here because of the deer. So not to concerned about the candle power for night driving. I was concerned about getting something that was to hard on the charging system and wiring. I wanted to stick with a sealed beam unit.

Well, as dhall57 says, sounds like your the candidate for the automotive solution H6024 sealed beam for <$20. Should be a slam dunk.

And as I said that's what we always told customers to do anyway, even when they were current models. We didn't stock the Honda items for that reason.

The Bosch and CIBIE lens are fun. They have a really crisp line of illumination. Straight ahead, its a horizontal line, out front, then at about the edge of the road on the right, the light goes up at a 60° angle and everything, like deer, is illuminated. Then the highbeam shoots straight ahead way out, into an "X", in the center of the lane. Really cool.

The stock beams are just a blob of light. Then the high beam is a brighter blob of light.

The problem with deer is even with the light they may be travelling at a high rate of speed into your lane and you can't get stopped or avoid them, whether you can see them or not. 

I don't think there is any extra draw on the system, if you use the same watt H4 as the watt on the sealed beam. Its just a more efficient light. And the relay makes it more efficient.

But I'll defer to anyone who knows elect more than me, which is nearly everyone.   

MCRider,
     If I go w/ the above change,or even a different type bulb w/ the same wattage,will a relay be necessary to keep my electrical system functioning safely ?
What is the purpose of the relay ?

[MCRider]

No the relay is not necessary. I never had one with the H4. My experience is with my HawkGT, using the stock headlight still. I put one on it and wow what a difference! So I'm keen to put them on everything. Same with horns. It will make a stock horn louder, and will make an aftermarket horn an absolute weapon.

(Remember, a starter solenoid is a relay. And your electric starter would not work without it.)

You electrical guys gotta excuse me for butchering this, but i can put it in layman's terms without the math and theory. With the headlight, all the current passes thru the little wire in the handlebar switch. By wiring the relay into the circuit, the handlebar switch just carries enough current to trip the relay. The relay in turn carries the current for the headlight. It does this in a more efficient manner than the handlebar switch, supplying more "power" to the headlight and it becomes brighter.

If you hit your starter button, and there was no starter solenoid (relay) the starter button would melt. So for the headlight to get as much current as it was intended to get, you would melt the headlight switch, or significantly reduce its lifespan at least.

And that's the rub. The headlight with the relay doesn't tax the system any more than it was designed to. Shortcutting the electrics this way (no relay) reduces manufacturing costs and still produces a usable product. Just like shocks and tires and other short cuts. Leaves us with something to "improve" upon.

So someone may step in and explain the ohms, watts, and volts stuff. I understand it for about the 5 minutes it takes to explain it to me, then poof! And I'm left with all i need to know. Relays are neat.

Don't forget too, to clean all your old connectors to optimize the electrics.

[MCRider]

Don't read what i wrote, read this:
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Stuff/Faqs/Relay_Info/relay_info.html

[bryanj]

500 and 750 part numbers were originaly exactly the same, 550 has a 341(later 750) middle number and all will fit, as will ANY 7 inch bulb type reflector