Author Topic: carb removal (Read 4887 times)

crackerbat · « **on:** March 09, 2012, 01:14:48 PM »

Trying to finish this 76 750f rebuild and I cannot for the life of me rip the damn carbs off of the engine.

Loosened all the clamps, even removed the airbox to get me more playroom, but the buggers will not budge off of the boots. I've done everything but beat on them with a hammer. My hands are shredded, my will is broken and if not for my trusty buddy on his way with more.. I'd be out of beer.

rtnoble · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:23:30 PM »

use bungee cords to hold the airbox back

harisuluv · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:36:00 PM »

Take a deep breath. First you need to set yourself up for success. You are going to need some leverage. The trick is to use leverage without damaging anything. That means wood and if you use a metal bar or something it must never be touching metal. 2x4 scraps work good. Never pry up against the fins engine without really distributing that surface area or you can break one. Never pry on connecting areas--have seen too many out of round because they have been pried on. Spray some soapy water on the manifold meets carb area. Also, make sure your clamps are providing NO resistance. Better to have them over loosened than under--they will catch. It's really easy, but you have to do it right. WATCH where you are putting pressure on, better to leverage with the frame or the backplate of the carbs. WOOD WOOD WOOD.

MikeKato · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:38:30 PM »

crackerbat: They'll succumb to superior strength,just don't get frustrated to the point of unnecessary violence. The beer will help you quite a bit.. What part of Milwaukee are you in?

harisuluv · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:40:27 PM »

To clarify the 2x4 scraps are to be used up against a metal surface to not damage it, not to actually pry with. But I think you got that.

Johnie · « **Reply #5 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:42:18 PM »

And don't forget to use your wifes hair dryer to soften that rubber and give it some flexibilty.

flybox1 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:46:02 PM »

Quote from: Johnie on March 09, 2012, 01:42:18 PM

And don't forget to use your wifes hair dryer to soften that rubber and give it some flexibilty.

+1
Ratchet straps carefully positioned/tightened down can make for easy removal while you are warming the boots.

crackerbat · « **Reply #7 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:59:34 PM »

i channeled my inner Hulk, and used a chunk of wood as a lever as suggested. I like the ratchet strap idea, and will likely end up having to do that to get em back on.

Physics.. who'd a thunk?

flybox1 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 09, 2012, 02:11:38 PM »

search the forum for the 'wintergreen' boot treatment to soften them up.

ekpent · « **Reply #9 on:** March 09, 2012, 04:23:26 PM »

As Johnie mentioned save yourself a lot of hassle and make it easy with a good heat gun.Softens old rubber up very well.Great for other jobs also. Little grease on install also.

MoMo · « **Reply #10 on:** March 09, 2012, 04:34:55 PM »

+3 on the heat gun. If you don't have one, go to HF and get a cheap one. Most every day I work on bikes I use a heat gun-it is as mandatory as owning a ratchet

Drain the gas from the float bowls then use the heat gun on all four intake boots until they are soft. Then use the 2x4 against the fins in conjunction with a pry bar...Larry

Bailgang · « **Reply #11 on:** March 09, 2012, 07:18:12 PM »

+4 on the heat gun and the wintergreen oil idea worked like a dream for me as well.

m00ntan · « **Reply #12 on:** March 09, 2012, 07:29:59 PM »

I had rachet straps made to clamp cabinets that torqued with a socket. They came off with no effort and I put them back the same way. And it's kinda precise with no banging. I wouldn't even try without them.

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 09, 2012, 07:44:14 PM »

You can also twist down 90 degrees and that works good too. Pulling straight off will require much beer better invite a few of your buds from the forum over I am sure after a keg or two will will have the super human strength required to pull them straight off. If you don't have that kind of beer fund cut a 2 x4 at 90 degrees and find a good pry point.

MikeKato · « **Reply #14 on:** March 10, 2012, 10:33:58 AM »

Quote from: chewbacca5000 on March 09, 2012, 07:44:14 PM

You can also twist down 90 degrees and that works good too. Pulling straight off will require much beer better invite a few of your buds from the forum over I am sure after a keg or two will will have the super human strength required to pull them straight off. If you don't have that kind of beer fund cut a 2 x4 at 90 degrees and find a good pry point.

I must be lucky or something,I've had to pull 3 long seated sets of different 750's in the last few months and yes it was a little tough but I didn't have to resort to ratchet straps,heat guns or prying on anything. I completely backed out the screws of all 8 clamps after removing the air box and filter boots. They were tough enough to get me swearing and taking breaks but with beer and blue underwear it wasn't all that hard to do. I did dip my finger in the oil reserve to put a thin coat inside the boot and on the intakes of the motor when I slid them back on.

crackerbat · « **Reply #15 on:** March 10, 2012, 02:13:16 PM »

Quote from: MikeKato on March 10, 2012, 10:33:58 AM

Quote from: chewbacca5000 on March 09, 2012, 07:44:14 PM
You can also twist down 90 degrees and that works good too. Pulling straight off will require much beer better invite a few of your buds from the forum over I am sure after a keg or two will will have the super human strength required to pull them straight off. If you don't have that kind of beer fund cut a 2 x4 at 90 degrees and find a good pry point.

I must be lucky or something,I've had to pull 3 long seated sets of different 750's in the last few months and yes it was a little tough but I didn't have to resort to ratchet straps,heat guns or prying on anything. I completely backed out the screws of all 8 clamps after removing the air box and filter boots. They were tough enough to get me swearing and taking breaks but with beer and blue underwear it wasn't all that hard to do. I did dip my finger in the oil reserve to put a thin coat inside the boot and on the intakes of the motor when I slid them back on.

These sonsa#$%*es weren't budging.. on a side note.. carb bowls filled with pink crystals, strange jellyfish looking blobs, and the drain screws on 2 won't budge >.<

harisuluv · « **Reply #16 on:** March 10, 2012, 02:17:44 PM »

That is not uncommon to find stuff like that in the float bowls. Little advice: If the bowl drain plug isn't budging, do not force it. You need a screwdriver that will fit it properly to even try unscrewing. If it's too small it will just dig into the metal. If you try it and it's not moving, it's probably not going to move. If you keep trying you will very likeley break off the head and then you will have an even bigger problem. Get some vice grips with flat jaws, and wrap the tip with a bit of electrical tape. Clamp on and it will turn easy. Easy peasy.

crackerbat · « **Reply #17 on:** March 10, 2012, 02:22:22 PM »

Quote from: harisuluv on March 10, 2012, 02:17:44 PM

That is not uncommon to find stuff like that in the float bowls. Little advice: If the bowl drain plug isn't budging, do not force it. You need a screwdriver that will fit it properly to even try unscrewing. If it's too small it will just dig into the metal. If you try it and it's not moving, it's probably not going to move. If you keep trying you will very likeley break off the head and then you will have an even bigger problem. Get some vice grips with flat jaws, and wrap the tip with a bit of electrical tape. Clamp on and it will turn easy. Easy peasy.

Thanks for the tip. I got them soaking in a jar currently to help a little.

MoMo · « **Reply #18 on:** March 10, 2012, 02:26:47 PM »

A heat gun applied to the bowl will soften the crud that is between the drain screw and the bowl. As mentioned, make sure you have the proper slotted screwdriver...Larry

crackerbat · « **Reply #19 on:** March 10, 2012, 02:45:57 PM »

vice grips worked like a charm. I don't have nearly a thick/wide enough screwdriver, nor the patients to wait for one.. vicegrips worked great and didn't leave any marks.

harisuluv · « **Reply #20 on:** March 10, 2012, 02:51:49 PM »

Nice! Now you gotta clean all that junk outta there

crackerbat · « **Reply #21 on:** March 10, 2012, 03:28:08 PM »

Quote from: harisuluv on March 10, 2012, 02:51:49 PM

Nice! Now you gotta clean all that junk outta there

What do you think the chances are of using wintergreen oil to restore the bowl seals?

harisuluv · « **Reply #22 on:** March 10, 2012, 05:18:44 PM »

I don't think that's a good idea. The gaskets you can buy for $16 for all four. I would personally never try and recover them as it's just not worth the risk. Try parts n more.

crackerbat · « **Reply #23 on:** March 10, 2012, 05:42:22 PM »

Quote from: harisuluv on March 10, 2012, 05:18:44 PM

I don't think that's a good idea. The gaskets you can buy for $16 for all four. I would personally never try and recover them as it's just not worth the risk. Try parts n more.

Yeah, I was looking for just gaskets but nobody has them in stock. I don't run stock jets and everything else is fine. Was just trying to avoid paying 60 bucks for bowlrings

harisuluv · « **Reply #24 on:** March 10, 2012, 05:57:54 PM »

I think there is one major supplier of those aftermarket gaskets and they don't really produce them consistently. Sometimes they are out of stock for a month or two. There are some that you can find elsewhere but I don't think they are the same quality and the sizing isn't that great a fit either.

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Author Topic: carb removal (Read 4887 times)