Topic: Getting my first bike (1977 CB550F) and need some feedback.

[Bean]

I found a bike in the area on Ebay, I had the highest bid but didn't meet reserve. I agreed on a price with the seller assuming he disclosed everything and went to see the bike last weekend. There were definetely more flaws than were listed, as you can see in the videos. The bike did however run well until some wiring in the fuse box seemed to short out and melt, and then after using the kickstart the seller adjusted the idle while the bike was off and then couldn't get it right again...

He should have the fuse wiring and idle fixed really soon, the things I'm more concerned about are rust on the fork and rust on the exhaust pipes and tailpipe (with rust holes). The bike only has 12,800 miles on it and ran pretty well when it ran. Just needs some tuning and cleaning engine wise. The person selling it wants $800. He got it on ebay as well and is just reselling it... I think $800 might be too much for it, especially if I will have to get a bunch of new parts from the start.

Here are the vids (should be quick downloads for anybody with broadband):
Entire bike - 15mb - 6 minutes
Fork and Exhaust - 5mb - 2 minutes
Wiring and Seat - 1.4mb  - 30 seconds

I'd really appreciate it if somebody could watch the main video or even the smaller vids and let me know what you think. Is the fork in pretty bad shape? Is it possible to repair the exhaust and holes so it looks good without replacing it. The bike is a bit tall for me as well so lowering it .5-1" would be good.

Thanks for any feedback, and I look forward to becoming a SOHC owner and will definetely make much use of this community!

[csendker]

Wiring & seat:  That's not a stock fuse block, and corroded up which MAY be a cause for overheating & blowing fuses excessive resistance...).  The seat cover is shot.  If the foam is OK, you can recover or snag a whole new seat off e-bay.  They're there, you just need some patience.

[csendker]

Fork & exhaust:  You call those forks rusty?  Ha, look at mine someday!  It seems to be mostly the inside of the headlight ears, which aren't a structural thing to speak of.  The exhaust is a 4-1, aftermarket unless it's an "F" series bike, which I didn't pay enough attention to figure out.  If the header pipes are OK, you can chop off the muffler and get an slip-on to replace.  They can be cheap to mage-bucks, depending on your taste & wallet.

Edit: I'm working backwards, it is an "F" series bike, not a "K".

[Bean]

Thanks for the feedback. Yeah the forks aren't very rust, but from reading the "Buyers beware" article on this site it had me concerned. "Another rust prone area is the fork tube under the headlight mounting brackets."  I wasn't really sure what to look for, did I get it in the vid?

Not a stock fuse block? Hmmm. The fuse that blew from the short was jutting out from the block before, so might have just been broken. I'll have to ask about it when I see the bike again, maybe tomorrow. Are you sure it's not stock?

Thanks again!

[bryanj]

Beg to differ that fusebox is stock for a 550 just missing the lid. Only 3 fuses are used the end ones are spares. Seat need cover exhaust is expensive, fork should be ok as log as seal does not reach the "pits" on the L/H leg. In UK with a full years test/tax (inspection and tag to you) it would fetch £350-£450 as visually it dont look like its been looked after. Where you are i would guess at $500

[csendker]

I have a K, so I'm not real sharp on the F's.  It looks to be pretty much stock, which I think is a good thing.  I can't say much for the mechanics of it, but cosmetically it looks to be in good shape, and do keep in mind these are 30 year old bikes going for $800.  If this is you're 1st bike -like mine was for me last year- and depending on your level of comfort regarding wrenching, I didn't want too much of a project to start off with.  The seat is an easy fix/swap out.  The electrics on these aren't too complicated once you get into them - mostly just a good cleaning is often the cure.  If it's running, you're probably OK.

And I'm happy to be corrected on the fuses.

[bill440cars]

            Doesn't seem too bad to me for the price. There is one thing I am curious about. The right shock absorber and the spring on it is installed different from the left one. One end of each spring has
the coils wound closer together than the other end. The right one has the closer wound end on the bottom and the left one has it at the top. One is installed backwards (I don't remember which one would be correct right off) Not a big deal but, should be corrected.
                                                           Later on, Bill

[Bean]

Bill you're absolutely right. Very odd, can't believe you caught that. I didn't even notice it while seeing it in person.

[Tim.]

A word on the progressive springs - I recently installed new Progressive brand springs in my front forks, and of course was curious to know which way to install.  The included instructions said that it made no difference which way they went in.  I put them in whatever way the old ones came out (tight at the top if I recall).

So, perhaps whoever built the shocks did one differently, and didn't bother to correct knowing it made no difference (giving benefit of the doubt to the p.o.).  No matter though - wouldn't cause any ill effect.

[Tim.]

So I just watched the Everything video - what, no shots of the entire bike?  Any dents in the tank/cracks in the sidecovers?

Here's the bottom line.  If the tanks and sidecovers are good, you probably have $200 in resale value right there.  If the seat has no rips, another $80.

You can part the bike out and make most/all/more of your $800 back.  If it runs, or is close to runs, and the electrics all work it looks pretty decent.

I paid $400 for my 1976 CB550F and it didn't run, didn't have good paint, cables weren't connected etc.

When checking electrics, check the following:

Front signals, headlight and tail light should all turn on when the bike is running or key is turned to start.  Front signals are two-filament bulbs - running lights and turning.
Signals should of course all work
Horn
Starter button
Brake light (check front lever and foot pedal)
Hi/Lo beam for headlight

Rust in the tank?
Inline fuel filters on lines (nice to see if the previous owner took this precaution - no penalty if they didn't, but bonus points if they did)

Condition of rear sprocket teeth?  Do they look like shark's teeth (if so, new sprockets / chain needed)

Any sign of burning oil or leaking oil?

[Bean]

Thanks for the notes tintin. Yeah I can't believe I neglected to get some shots of the whole bike and running... I of course started taping after the fuse problem.

My friend rode it first and said it felt great. I think all the lights worked fine, as did the electric start.

How does one check if there's rust in the tank? Looking into the tank couldn't even see how much fuel there is because of a big mound when looking in.

I will make sure to check the sprockets when I go pick it up.

[Tim.]

If the big mound was rusty, then it's rusty   Nothing $40 worth of various chemicals can't fix.  Sprockets and chain are only $60 or so.  Shouldn't worry about the 'consumables' on the bike like sprockets, but they are a sign of the general attention that's been paid to it in the past.

Sounds like a good starting point, and it looks like it's ridable as-is.

[Bean]

And if the mount wasn't rusty then the rest probably isn't either? Sorta makes sense since oxygen is necessary for rust and the top would be exposed most.

[Tim.]

Not necessarily, but if it looks clean, chances are it is.  Wouldn't hurt to put on inline fuel filters.

[BMan1113VR]

I would say 800 is too much for a bike in the condition you described (I am at work right now so, i can't watch the video).

[Tim.]

The other thing about these bikes is you can spend as much or as little as you want on them to make them what you want.  I posted this a while back documenting my spend on my 550F.

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=4068.0

[angeldeville]

Jeeze I'm on the road to $2000 in parts with my CB350 twin!

I would say 800 is too much for a bike in the condition you described (I am at work right now so, i can't watch the video).

the video looks better than just reading the description, $800 may be on the high end of what you should pay, but it's not outrageous.

[Rushoid]

I paid $850 for my 750F in only slightly better shape. If you've got some mechanical/electrical sense, time to tinker, and another $200-300 for misc. parts, it should be a decent bike. A little patience would be a big benefit too. 
Get yourself a manual and scour these boards. You'll find just about everything you need to know.

Good luck!
Lee

[Bean]

Part of my interest in getting a bike besides riding is having something to work on mechanically. My first car was a 1984 Rabbit GTI and I spent A LOT of time working on it. Ended up repairing/replacing almost every component on it. I miss having something to work on like that, and my current car isn't mechanic friendly like that (2004 Focus).

This bike comes with the original manual, a repair manual (not sure what brand), and the original tool set I think. It will be nice to have a bike that I can ride and yet work on and improve at the same time... well you know what I mean.

[bill440cars]

Part of my interest in getting a bike besides riding is having something to work on mechanically. My first car was a 1984 Rabbit GTI and I spent A LOT of time working on it. Ended up repairing/replacing almost every component on it. I miss having something to work on like that, and my current car isn't mechanic friendly like that (2004 Focus).

This bike comes with the original manual, a repair manual (not sure what brand), and the original tool set I think. It will be nice to have a bike that I can ride and yet work on and improve at the same time... well you know what I mean.

                        Oh yeah, that's what it's all about.