Author Topic: My CB755 Project - COMPLETED!!!! (Read 34751 times)

mwvachon · « **Reply #50 on:** March 20, 2013, 02:58:22 PM »

Just got my O-ring order last night. Thought I'd post the updated part info in case anyone else is looking for any of this...

mwvachon · « **Reply #51 on:** March 20, 2013, 06:02:05 PM »

Now that everything needed is on hand, I wanted to go over all the internals one more time and then do a test-fit of the two case halves prior to bolting the halves together. Spent a few minutes figuring out how to re-install the kick shaft assembly. All is now well with that. I was not real satisfied with the clutch shaft that I picked out from my stock of salvaged engine parts, so I pulled out one of the other ones. What a difference! After doing a quick cleaning, I noted that the shaft would spin quite freely for a few minutes after giving it a spin by hand (no primary chains tied to it at that point) The other shaft felt heavy and dragged a bit when trying that. Once again, maybe having three salvage engines to scavenge parts from is not a bad deal after all! Either tomorrow or Friday, I'm expecting another pair of hands to show up and the cases will be mated!

mwvachon · « **Reply #52 on:** March 24, 2013, 05:46:05 AM »

OK, enough of this 'test' stuff. Let's get to it! After liberal application of assembly lube in all the critical areas, I applied the Yamabond sealant to the upper case surfaces and my buddy Steve helped me drop the lower half case onto the upper. Torqued all the bolts in and the assembly looked good. Using the new o-rings, installed the outside transmission bearing cap, the shifter assembly, oil pump, and oil pan assembly. Have to admit to struggling with the shifter assembly. It just didn't seem to want to go together correctly. Then I discovered that the neutral switch also serves as a keeper/locator for the shift drum. Much better after that. Have to credit their engineers with creating an assembly that truly only goes together one way! Had the new clutch plates soaking in oil for a couple days, so decided to put that assembly together with the new clutch springs that I had previously ordered. It's starting to look like a real CB750 engine!

hoodellyhoo · « **Reply #53 on:** March 24, 2013, 07:56:06 AM »

Great work!

mwvachon · « **Reply #54 on:** March 24, 2013, 01:01:32 PM »

I pulled this together from a few sources. The usual disclaimers apply... not responsible for type-O's, invalid/incorrect data, etc. Use at your own risk. I'm surprised none of the service manuals have these tables...

David B · « **Reply #55 on:** March 25, 2013, 06:34:54 AM »

Looks fantastic Michael, thanks for documenting the process and putting together the cheat sheet.

David B

mwvachon · « **Reply #56 on:** March 26, 2013, 01:22:21 PM »

Held an impromptu 'beauty' contest last night - just for pistons, mind you... Again, the ONLY benefit of what I went through to get a useable set of engine cases is the fact that I have 3 nearly complete motors to pick over. I cleaned up all 12 pistons and laid them out to compare. I was surprised to see the K2 motor had one very new piston in it (far left, first row). The other three had a pretty thick build up of carbon on them. I ended up using none of them. I went with the four that didn't seem to have any nicks/dings, slid nicely into the barrels, and otherwise looked very similar. In looking every thing over, I'm thinking I have enough decent parts to build a back-up engine - but that's another project...

edhaeuser · « **Reply #57 on:** March 31, 2013, 07:42:42 AM »

Quote from: mwvachon on March 24, 2013, 01:01:32 PM

I pulled this together from a few sources. The usual disclaimers apply... not responsible for type-O's, invalid/incorrect data, etc. Use at your own risk. I'm surprised none of the service manuals have these tables...

I have added this to my reference library. Thanks!

Ed

brandEn · « **Reply #58 on:** March 31, 2013, 04:22:32 PM »

Great Table with the Torques! Thanks.

mwvachon · « **Reply #59 on:** April 08, 2013, 07:01:47 PM »

No, I didn't go back into hibernation... I've managed to get a bit done here and there. Since last post, I painted the cylinders and head, got the OEM style piston ring set, and have assembled a good part of the head. I tried the hose clamp method for the ring compressors, but that didn't work well at all. The biggest fight was trying to keep the pistons from rocking while lining them up with the bores, Fortunately, good buddy Steve was on hand again, and between the two if us, we managed to get all four pistons into the bores using just the finger method! I kept thinking about the bent thin oil ring that Iron Worker ended up with!!! Fortunately we eyeballed this closely at every millimeter and then rotated the crank a full turn to check for any scratching. Perfect! I moved onto installing the head and once again realized that a 'complete gasket set' rarely is that! Was missing the 6 pucks that go under the cam towers! For some reason, I ended up with a double set when I did my last rebuild and despite my intricate filing system, I found them! YAY! (Cold beers all around!) I've since installed the cam towers and am now fighting to get the cam chain on the sprocket. It doesn't help that the new cam chain has almost no slop to it! Any tricks, thoughts, ideas?

mwvachon · « **Reply #60 on:** April 13, 2013, 06:03:02 AM »

OK, so camera died :-(
Picked up a great deal @ Wally-World - A Canon A4000 for $79! Powering up battery now and hope to post later today.
Managed to figure out the cam chain install thanks to a couple other project posts I read. Seems the trick is to slip the cam chain over the cam shaft first (moving left to right of course) followed closely by the sprocket. Once you work the cam shaft all the way over to it's position, there's enough room to drop it into the bearing seats. You then line up the crank shaft, cam shaft and sprocket as close as possible. Lift the chain and fit it onto the sprocket. You can then fit the sprocket in place on the cam shaft. From there it's a matter of checking the alignment of the two shafts. It is now easy to slide the sprocket off the shaft and advance/reverse the chain position accordingly. I can't believe this isn't in any of the manuals I have!

iron_worker · « **Reply #61 on:** April 13, 2013, 09:43:52 AM »

I also struggled with the cam installation for a bit. I was trying to put the sprocket over the cam first then the chain... however with the sprocket in between the chain and the sprocket flange the cam chain would get all bound up because it would be forced off at an angle. I found out after much struggle that the chain must be between the sprocket flange and sprocket. Once you know the tricks it's not so hard.

Also glad you followed my warnings and worked carefully around those rings. I almost went into depression when I wrecked that bore....

lol

Good work on the motor. Keep the pics comin.

IW

mwvachon · « **Reply #62 on:** April 13, 2013, 06:05:55 PM »

Got to try out the new Canon camera. To be fair, the lighting in this shot is not the same as my typical shots - but the image clarity is amazing since the only way I could shoot with the previous Kodak unit was to use a tripod with a 2 sec delay. I just shot this holding the camera and tried both with and without flash (identical results). This baby has a great image stabilization feature. I'm thinking this will work a lot better. Here's the shot of the head as it sits today. So many little things to look after before continuing.

mwvachon · « **Reply #63 on:** April 16, 2013, 05:40:25 PM »

Just put together my list of fasteners needed to finish the button up of the motor. We have a great place near by that will let me buy oneseys-twoseys amounts of fasteners instead of the bigger minimums at Fastenal or McMaster... Also placed a first time order with wirecare.com for some material to replace the white weave covering of some of the engine wiring (specifically the oil pressure switch lead and the points wire). I'll let everyone know how that works for me when I get it...

mwvachon · « **Reply #64 on:** April 20, 2013, 07:51:04 PM »

Trip to Fastener Warehouse turned out well. 80 various fasteners in SS for $20! Was not thrilled with the polish on the valve cover, so I decided to try hitting with some glass bead to see if that would help remove some of the staining in the aluminum. Polishing out nicely now!

File this bit under 'Am I Losing My Mind Or What'
I finally got to go check out yet another salvage K1 motor today. Serial # is in the right ballpark, nothing obviously broken (on the cases anyway). I'm thinking I'd use one of the other heads and cylinder units I have on this and have a correct K1 engine for this build. Sort of a shame I have another motor that is almost completely done... Am I nuts? Anyone need a freshly rebuilt CB750 motor?

Tews19 · « **Reply #65 on:** April 20, 2013, 08:11:03 PM »

Curious how much you picked that engine up for? You plan to not use the cases? I wonder how much that would cost to ship.

Where do you keep finding these engines btw? Same honey hole?

mwvachon · « **Reply #66 on:** April 20, 2013, 09:12:52 PM »

Tews - The guy who had this has several other 750 engines (he's built several cafes), but had seen my local CL ad looking specifically for a K1. He only wanted $100 - which is good because the head and cyl are pretty beat (broken/cracked fins). I'm contemplating building yet another engine using these K1 cases and using anything else I need (except for wear parts of course) from the 3 salvage engines I already have on hand. I won't raid the engine I've already built for anything - it came out nice, and would be perfect except for the fact that it has 'service' cases instead of a straight-up K0 or K1 units. I only used the service cases because it was looking like I wasn't going to find what I really wanted/needed. It's kinda dumb to build two engines for the same bike - but it's just me being a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to doing a model-correct restoration.

edhaeuser · « **Reply #67 on:** April 20, 2013, 09:46:25 PM »

So you now have four salvage engines and the one that you just built up? Ha Ha. Sometimes you can never have enough :-)

Ed

mwvachon · « **Reply #68 on:** April 24, 2013, 07:29:20 PM »

OK, enough distraction over other engines... Been picking away at the mostly completed one a few hours each night. Got the valve cover all buttoned up, cam chain tensioner assembled and adjusted, put the clutch housing cover on. I noted neither the clutch cover plate and point cover (both the pretty chromed ones) are going to cut it for this project. I checked each of the salvage engines and the clutch outer covers have too much pitting and the point covers each appear to be dented in at least one place. Need to clean up the exhaust flanges before installing. Something I learned from my last 750 build - I use socket cap flat screws for the flanges. When I built the other motor, after just a couple thousand miles, the Philip head screws loosened on at least two of the flanges. I replaced them with the socket cap variety because those are actually easier to torque/tighten! The heavy-duty points cover on the bench is going on temporarily. I use that because I lay the engine on that side when I drop the frame on it to mate the two up. Prevents unwanted damage to the points area!

mwvachon · « **Reply #69 on:** October 31, 2013, 06:30:16 PM »

Hi All,
I wasn't abducted by aliens - but I haven't been doing much with this for the past few months. I did elect to go with a new wire harness section for the bundle that goes from the engine to the main harness. I also polished the three covers that go on the left side of the engine. Will post pics when that is all buttoned up. I also started gathering parts to do the wheels. I have new DID rims, spokes, bearings, and seal sets for both wheels. A couple local enthusiasts have asked that I let them know when I go to lace the rims. They'd like to learn how that's done. It's a little insane, but that's one of my favorite parts of doing a rebuild. I could spin the rim on the wheel stand and tweak the spoke tensions while watching the two dial indicator gauges for hours (and often do). It pays off in a bike that runs straight and true afterward!

Tews19 · « **Reply #70 on:** October 31, 2013, 07:00:53 PM »

Glad to see you drop by and say hello! Looking forward to more updates!

David B · « **Reply #71 on:** November 03, 2013, 04:25:39 PM »

I can confirm that he wasn't abducted as he took me on a fantastic tour of New England this fall. Glad to see you back at it, Mike.

Btw, someone ask him how many miles he has on his Valkyre.

mwvachon · « **Reply #72 on:** November 12, 2013, 07:33:28 PM »

OK, pulled the trigger and ordered the Yamiya body kit for this project. I was holding out for the Polynesian Blue, but it's still not being offered by them at this time. I do love the Candy Red - I have a NOS fork cover in that color on the shelf. If I ever start to second-guess myself on this color choice (anything but that butt-ugly Briar Brown!), I just pick up that piece and look at it in the sunlight... sparkles like a jewel! Should look sharp next to the Candy Gold K1...

edhaeuser · « **Reply #73 on:** November 12, 2013, 08:04:06 PM »

Oh my. I am so jealous. Very nice!

albertaboy · « **Reply #74 on:** November 12, 2013, 08:24:11 PM »

That's gonna look amazing. Nice!!

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Author Topic: My CB755 Project - COMPLETED!!!! (Read 34751 times)