Author Topic: Impact hammer vs. Electric Impact driver? (Read 7645 times)

robdrobd · « **on:** June 13, 2012, 03:40:31 PM »

I can never get rusted bolts out very easily, even with a hand held impact hammer. Should I invest in an electric one, or is the difference minimal?

Stev-o · « **Reply #1 on:** June 13, 2012, 05:27:21 PM »

Do you have a compressor? Pneumatic may be the way to go.

robdrobd · « **Reply #2 on:** June 13, 2012, 06:20:43 PM »

No I was thinking of buying an electric one, but only if it works better than the handheld.

Gordon · « **Reply #3 on:** June 13, 2012, 06:26:56 PM »

How about a breaker bar instead? I have a pneumatic impact driver, but it's only been used on my cars when working on suspension parts or motor mounts. On the bikes the handheld impact driver or breaker bar are all I've ever needed.

Really? · « **Reply #4 on:** June 13, 2012, 06:27:43 PM »

If you do not have a compressor, the electric one is fine. I have both and I will grab the electric one first. Much less to deal with. The electric one has some kick too. It is the HF one that was on sale and had a 20% coupon.

Really? · « **Reply #5 on:** June 13, 2012, 06:34:26 PM »

But I would not use or need it on any bike. Too much torque. I use it with cars.

robdrobd · « **Reply #6 on:** June 13, 2012, 06:36:37 PM »

I thought it would work on the stock exhaust flange bolts.

flopshot · « **Reply #7 on:** June 13, 2012, 06:54:01 PM »

i usually blow off new stuff but the 18 volt lithium ion Hitachi impact driver i picked up made me see the light. wow, this thing is the heat.

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 13, 2012, 07:06:54 PM »

Hi Rob,

I you want to try an electric impact you can borrow my Ryobi. Not sure you would want to try to remove exhaust bolts with it as they may break in the flanges forcing you to drill them out.

Irukandji · « **Reply #9 on:** June 13, 2012, 08:03:49 PM »

I was thinking the battery hammer drill had a clutch to adjust torque.

robdrobd · « **Reply #10 on:** June 13, 2012, 08:04:34 PM »

I definitely don't want to break anything off. Maybe I should just keep trying with the hand driver for now.

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 13, 2012, 08:41:03 PM »

Quote from: robdrobd on June 13, 2012, 08:04:34 PM

I definitely don't want to break anything off. Maybe I should just keep trying with the hand driver for now.

PB Blaster w/heat helps too.

wrenchmuch · « **Reply #12 on:** June 14, 2012, 07:33:13 AM »

The manual impact driver is better for recessed head fasteners as it forces the bit into the fastener head while applying torque. An electric unit won't do this. I've used a Makita impact driver for years in carpentry and wouldn't go back to a drill for driving fasteners there but it could easily shear off a 10 mm fastener. You can apply enough torque by hand to twist off a 10 mm fastener. Use penetrants and heat to get exhaust fasteners in the head loose. Maybe try striking it to break up corrosion as well.

Don R · « **Reply #13 on:** June 14, 2012, 09:42:31 AM »

My sears C3 battery impact driver, not the 1/2" impact, the small one with the speed chuck. I have a 3/8" drive snap on phillips bit that works perfectly on the Honda screws. I haven't stripped one since I got it. Some heavy bolts need breaking loose first but I like the safety factor of the smaller impact.
The lithium ion battery would be nice too. I use the ni-cad so far.

robdrobd · « **Reply #14 on:** June 14, 2012, 10:27:40 AM »

Quote from: Don R on June 14, 2012, 09:42:31 AM

My sears C3 battery impact driver, not the 1/2" impact, the small one with the speed chuck. I have a 3/8" drive snap on phillips bit that works perfectly on the Honda screws. I haven't stripped one since I got it. Some heavy bolts need breaking loose first but I like the safety factor of the smaller impact.
The lithium ion battery would be nice too. I use the ni-cad so far.

That was exactly what I was going to try. I already have the 19.2v combo kit.

lucky · « **Reply #15 on:** June 14, 2012, 10:52:56 AM »

Quote from: robdrobd on June 13, 2012, 03:40:31 PM

I can never get rusted bolts out very easily, even with a hand held impact hammer. Should I invest in an electric one, or is the difference minimal?

With the hand held impact driver the most important thing is having the correct size bit.
Basically the largest one that will fit.

Also when you use the impact driver- push down and twist in the direction to loosen THEN hit it with the hammer. DO NOT just put the driver in the screw and hit the hammer. It will just strip the head of the screw.
It is all about paying attention to small details.

USe a heavy hammer not a little tiny hammer.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #16 on:** June 14, 2012, 10:59:57 AM »

I'm not sure if all the hand impact drivers are designed the same, but my 40 year old one is cammed. One way will apply an impact to loosen a fastener, cammed the other way will tighten a fastener. Make sure you have it cammed the right way before you start or you may be tightening something instead of loosening it.

MCRider · « **Reply #17 on:** June 14, 2012, 11:14:26 AM »

"USe a heavy hammer not a little tiny hammer." Lucky

This is important, too. I use a 2.5lb ball peen hammer. Nothing smaller IMO. Let the hammer do the work. Even on smaller screws. Use your strength for the aim.

Wear gloves at least on the holding hand.

72500john · « **Reply #18 on:** June 14, 2012, 04:52:56 PM »

besides using an impact driver i have these two helping hands for years.
first is kroil oil.not well know but works great.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

second is using a small bit of valve grinding compound on the bit/wrench on a chewed up fastener.
have not had to drill out and extract any screws or bolts for a while.

rifleman · « **Reply #19 on:** June 15, 2012, 07:03:57 PM »

Torches. You need torches.

Too much breaker bar...tends to break stuff.

Tews19 · « **Reply #20 on:** June 15, 2012, 08:43:19 PM »

I got out of my garage about 30 minuted ago trying to use a brand new electric milwaukee impact driver. stripped two screws on the cover that covers the smaller sprocket.... Pissed.

Stev-o · « **Reply #21 on:** June 15, 2012, 10:31:47 PM »

Use the impact driver!

adamlwvdc36 · « **Reply #22 on:** June 15, 2012, 11:27:15 PM »

Quote from: chewbacca5000 on June 13, 2012, 08:41:03 PM

Quote from: robdrobd on June 13, 2012, 08:04:34 PM
I definitely don't want to break anything off. Maybe I should just keep trying with the hand driver for now.

PB Blaster w/heat helps too.

Funny (but not so funny) story... while taking apart my 550s motor, I had a hell of a time with those stupid screws (i dont care if you like them, i dont) that hold the motor together in certain places and getting them to loosen was a #$%*. a hand held impact, socket, and philips #3 bit, pb blaster, a hammer, and about 3 gazillion hits with the hammer finally got the first screw off. These bikes are 30+ years old... #$%*s been in place for a long time. Its going to take time to get these things off. Be patient, the handheld will work.

Old School Honda · « **Reply #23 on:** June 16, 2012, 12:02:15 AM »

+1 on kroil & valve grinding compound. I'm an aircraft mechanic & these are required anytime we have stuck fasteners. Works equally as well on bikes.

Tews19 · « **Reply #24 on:** June 16, 2012, 12:32:32 PM »

The two stripped screws are out. One came out easily. Now in cool off mode as the final one is putting up a fight.

News:

Author Topic: Impact hammer vs. Electric Impact driver? (Read 7645 times)

72500john