Topic: Adjusting the timing chain slack

[lawrence]

It seems that something is wrong with the search function on this site. I use very broad words for various topics and have searched in all sections. I have also search in specific areas. Absolutely no results come up.

Anyway, I am trying to make sure my timing chain is adjusted properly. I followed the Clymer procedure, but the adjuster screw does not turn by itself when the lock nut is loosened as the directions say it should. I can turn the screw with a screw driver, so I do not think anything is broken. Can anyone point me toward another thread or provide some tips? Thanks

-Lawrence

[flybox1]

kinda helps if we know what bike you are working on

use the Google Custom search, BTW

[lawrence]

Did not realize I left that out, it's a 77 cb550f. I searched google and it directed me back to threads on this site. It appears that something is wrong with the tensioner.

I know that adjustment is not supposed to be done with the engine idling, but I will see if that makes a difference. And it looks like removal and replacement cannot be done with the engine in frame. This is definitely a step in the wrong direction for the renewal of a bike that was going smoothly.

[flybox1]

I searched google and it directed me back to threads on this site.

exactly what it is supposed to do 

[lucky]

DO NOT do it with the engine running if the book does not say to do it that way!!!

Do it the way the book says.
Some engines have to have the crankshaft in a particular place when the adjustment is made.

Get the right info for your bike. Do not listen to people that just say to do it when the engine is running .It can cost you a engine!!!

I amazes me how some people would risk ruining their engine and just experiment
with such a critical component.

[MCRider]

I searched google and it directed me back to threads on this site.

exactly what it is supposed to do 

Yeah I didn't want to give up the old Search, but I'm learning the Google Custom Search actually works pretty well.

[modzsquad]

I was just reading my repair manual, (spare time and remember that the cam should be adjusted with the #1 piston Top dead center!

[Fritz]

I was just reading my repair manual, (spare time and remember that the cam should be adjusted with the #1 piston Top dead center!

I hope you mean to adjust the cam (not the chain) at #1 TDC.
The cam chain should be adjusted with the bike warmed up 15° after TDC of #1:
Open the nut on the cam chain adjuster.
Turn the crankshaft until both valves on #1 are closed (rockers should be free). Turn the camshaft further until you see the advancer peg and line its left side with the timing mark on the engine case.
Now you should be able to turn the adjuster screw about 45°-90° clockwise. You should feel the resistance of the spring. The screw should snap back into the initial position if you let loose.
You should not be able to turn it counterclockwise more than maybe 5°.
Now let the screw turn itself back into position, hold it there with the screwdriver and tighten the nut.
It's all explained in the Workshop manual available at http://www.sohc4.net/index.php/cb550/books-manuals-guides-2/
Part 1 – Repair Procedures, Tools, Maintenance Operations

[Deltarider]

Bryanj's way is best.

BryanJ's patented "many years in the trade" method for tensioning the camchain!

Follow the manual as far as positioning the engine with #1 cylinder 15 degrees before Top Dead Centre (TDC). Loosen the locknut and put pressure on the crank so that it's just about to turn, either with the kickstart OR with a big spanner on the big nut on the auto advance so that all the camchain "slack" is at the back and then, whilst holding the pressure get your mechanically trained spider to tighten the locknut.

Been doing that on ALL OHC Hondas for 30 years and as long as the tensioner moves and the chain isn't worn out its guaranteed to work.

[flybox1]

Bryanj's way is best.

BryanJ's patented "many years in the trade" method for tensioning the camchain!

Follow the manual as far as positioning the engine with #1 cylinder 15 degrees before Top Dead Centre (TDC). Loosen the locknut and put pressure on the crank so that it's just about to turn, either with the kickstart OR with a big spanner on the big nut on the auto advance so that all the camchain "slack" is at the back and then, whilst holding the pressure get your mechanically trained spider to tighten the locknut.

Been doing that on ALL OHC Hondas for 30 years and as long as the tensioner moves and the chain isn't worn out its guaranteed to work.

Agreed!
...training the spider takes a while though 

[Fritz]

Bryanj's way is best.

BryanJ's patented "many years in the trade" method for tensioning the camchain!

Follow the manual as far as positioning the engine with #1 cylinder 15 degrees before Top Dead Centre (TDC). Loosen the locknut and put pressure on the crank so that it's just about to turn, either with the kickstart OR with a big spanner on the big nut on the auto advance so that all the camchain "slack" is at the back and then, whilst holding the pressure get your mechanically trained spider to tighten the locknut.

Agreed!
...training the spider takes a while though 

Yes, pushing all the slack to the back is nice. But it's 15° after TDC

[Duke McDukiedook]

And do not follow the Clymer manual procedure in technical matters, it is only good for light, non-tech summer reading.

[Deltarider]

Yes, pushing all the slack to the back is nice. But it's 15° after TDC

I've made the same comment long time ago.
Anyway, Bryanj will react by saying: it doesn't matter what the @$# position it is in, as long as you apply that pressure on the crank.

[DJ_AX]

Interesting... so you're both right.
The reason just past tdc is recommended is that the compression in the chambers keeps the tension on the front of the chain.

[MCRider]

Interesting... so you're both right.
The reason just past tdc is recommended is that the compression in the chambers keeps the tension on the front of the chain.

I don't think that its the compression in the chambers keeping the tension, as it is often set with the plugs out.

Its the pressure of the valve springs holding the cam backwards, tension on the front, right at that point.

[Duanob]

And FWIW on the CB550, the cam tensioner screw is counter-clockwise to tighten chain, clockwise to loosen. But GO EASY......

[DJ_AX]

Interesting... so you're both right.
The reason just past tdc is recommended is that the compression in the chambers keeps the tension on the front of the chain.

I don't think that its the compression in the chambers keeping the tension, as it is often set with the plugs out.

Its the pressure of the valve springs holding the cam backwards, tension on the front, right at that point.

i c