Not a big horrible job.
Removing and reinstalling the carbs will be the big pain. Disconnect the fuel hose at the petcock, remove the tank and take the cables off the carb wheel. Take notes or pictures of how they attach and the cable routing. Undo the airbox tube clamps and slide the tubes off. Loosen the intake adapter clamps way loose. Now pry the carbs off. Using a board is good, two is nice. Once you pry one side out it tends to pop back in when you pry the other side. Hold the first side out with one 2x4 while you pry the other side with another 2x4. Using a metal tool gouges the carbs and may break engine fins. Note the routing af any hoses and vents.
Get the right screwdriver for the carb bowl screws (JIS, not Philips or Frearson or Pozi-Torque) and press the driver in firmly while turning. A bit of penetrating oil applied overnight helps in removing these without ruining them: the holes are through so you can hit the heads and the threads. The screw heads are fairly soft metal and are easy to turn into round holes especially with the wrong screwdriver. A Philips #2 driver is probably the best fit if JIS is unavailable.
Make a note of how the main jet springs go in. It's hard to put them in wrong but I've seen it done.
The floats are probably fine. Be extremely careful taking the float hinge pin out, the posts break off rather easily and that's a tough fix. Penetrating oil or PB Blaster should be used for a while if they're stiff. Note the float orientation, it is reverse of what "looks right" so many people install them upside down.
The actual float valve installation is pretty simple. You may have a wire thing holding the needle part in, no big deal there. The seat hold-down clip screw should come out easily but if it's seized treat it like the bowl screws.
You should have a new O-ring for the seat.
Changing the bowl gasket is a tricky job but probably a good idea. The aftermarket ones tend to swell up in fuel, Honda OEM ones don't do that with pure gasoline but do a bit with ethanol adulterated fuel: this makes the seal impossible to reinstall for a day or so (while it shrinks back to original size) if you have to open the carbs again. Anyway, the original O-ring seal is glued in the bowl groove. Acetone or contact cement solvent should dissolve the glue so you can clean the groove after you pull the old seal out. Auto weatherstrip adhesive is good for gluing a new seal in. I glue it in then screw the bowl on the carb with a piece of wax paper in between (cut to shape) so the seal is fully seated but the bowl isn't glued to the carb.
Set the float heights as usual.
The fuel distribution fittings between the carbs have 4 O-rings each, these get hard and crack leading to fuel leaks. Hopefully you don't have to change them: it's a tricky job even without disconnecting any linkages, and the carb balance will be disturbed.
Have fun!
