Topic: 1971 CB 500 Questions

[matt_aggie04]

I am looking at purchasing a 1971 CB500 with about 15k miles on it. The bike is in immaculate condition my question as a first time buyer of an older Honda is what should I look for when going to see this bike?  Trouble areas, common issues and that sort of thing. My second question is a little harder to answer but what kind of value do these bikes have?  At a $3500 am I spending too much on this bike with a recent tune up and new tires?
Thank you in advance for any help that you can give.
Matt

[Greggo]

$3500 is quite a bit for a CB500, but if it's truly immaculate like you say, and BONE stock, it's in the higher end of the range, but not outrageous.  If you can give us a few pics to judge by, it makes things a lot easier.  The added value of a 'recent tune up' really depends on who did the work, and how well they did it.  Since you basically can't verify that in any quantifiable way without a receipt from a reputable shop, a 'recent tune up' adds very little value in my opinion.  I assume any old bike I buy is going to need some amount of work to make it road worthy/safe/reliable.  I know bikes aren't cheap down in Texas..

Things to look for are pretty standard.  Make sure the electrics all work.  Does the bike start easily?  How's the inside of the gas tank look?  Pull the dipstick and check out the oil level/condition.  If there's nasty oil in there, or it's really low, those are bad signs.  Check for bent spokes on the wheels.  Put it up on the centerstand and check the swing arm bearings.  How do the steering bearings feel when you turn the handlebars?  Check the brakes.  Look inside the brake fluid reservoir.  Check for frame rust underneath the bike.  Check for oil leaks...all pretty standard stuff.

It's still a lot of money, even for a PRISTINE green or gold CB500.

 

[matt_aggie04]

[Dimitri13]

^Link:

http://m.flickr.com/photos/79181384@N05/7359610668/play/

[Greggo]

Looks like an extremely nice '71, with an aftermarket exhaust.  If your intention is to have a completely stock bike, you'll be spending nearly a thousand dollars on new pipes.  It sounds like it runs and idles nice.

I think it would sell pretty quick here on the west coast at $3K.  Again, I think it's at the top of the current range for that bike, but examples that clean are much harder to find.  If it's worth the extra dough to you, then it's a good price.  Luckily with these bikes, even if you overpay, it's small potatoes compared to what can happen in the classic car world. 

Also keep in mind.  If they've never been done by 15k mi, that bike will need both wheel bearings, and steering neck bearings replaced.  Original rear brake shoes will need to be replaced if never done...has it been a maintained/rider...has someone been doing the necessary maintenance to it?

[Dimitri13]

I'd drop $3500 on that (here in Hawaii) if I had the chance. It's all about availability.

[matt_aggie04]

Thank you very much for the feedback. I will definitely have to check the bearings, that is the only item I don't think I've asked about. I was able to negotiate to 3k so I think I am just going to buy it and see what it's like. To be honest I've never owned a road bike but owned and ridden dirt bikes and enduros and looking for a good fun bike to ride to work and locally and see how I like it. Everything I've read on these says that they are reliable and fun to ride and I like classic vehicles especially from the 70's so this seems like a great first bike. If anyone has anymore tips or suggestions please let me know.
Thanks

[Stev-o]

Wow - that bike is clean. And very low mileage if 15k is correct. Do you know if the bike has been restored?
Greggo has given you some excellent advice, he knows them well. and is right about them not being cheap here in TX. $3K is not cheap, but if cared for, will hold it's value or appreciate. (I hope you have a garage). 
The only concern I would have is the clutch. There has been a lot of discussion of the issues that some members have experienced.
Have you ridden it yet?

[dave500]

make sure you ride the bike,,the wheel and head stem(steering) bearings are really a minimal concern,,make sure it selects and shifts gears clean and easy,the only way to fix these transmissions is a complete engine dissembly,it wont feel or shift like a late model bike though,,a few issues were rectified with the improved 550 models including an improved gear selection assembly and shift drum locating,the clutch release was also changed dramaticaly,,the 500s are fine,the top ends are the same indestructible units,the 500s transmission was improved overall on the 550 models,,do you want to ride and use this bike or just  store it?

[matt_aggie04]

The bike has only been cleaned and is all original paint etc.  I definitely want to ride the bike and yes I have a garage to store it in. As far as the clutch/transmission goes how will it feel if it's bad?  Will I have trouble selecting gears or feel grinding?  Will the clutch feel chattery or just slip a lot? I am going to drive/purchase tomorrow morning and I would sure like to know how it should feel when I drive it. The bearings are said to feel like new but I will check those items for sure. The owner has told me multiple times that the bike runs and rides incredibly tight so I am hoping for no transmission issues. I am hoping to drive to work and make short local rides to eat or over to friends houses and see how I like riding again. If I don't like it I will likely be putting it back up for sale but I have the itch and I won't know until I try if I am going to like it or not.

[Greggo]

The bike has only been cleaned and is all original paint etc.  I definitely want to ride the bike and yes I have a garage to store it in. As far as the clutch/transmission goes how will it feel if it's bad?  Will I have trouble selecting gears or feel grinding?  Will the clutch feel chattery or just slip a lot? I am going to drive/purchase tomorrow morning and I would sure like to know how it should feel when I drive it. The bearings are said to feel like new but I will check those items for sure. The owner has told me multiple times that the bike runs and rides incredibly tight so I am hoping for no transmission issues. I am hoping to drive to work and make short local rides to eat or over to friends houses and see how I like riding again. If I don't like it I will likely be putting it back up for sale but I have the itch and I won't know until I try if I am going to like it or not.

It will likely feel just fine if what he's telling you is true.  All those bad things you mentioned are exactly what to look out for.  It's usually difficulty selecting gears if problems are present.  With a bike that well cared for, I doubt it has problems.  Good luck with the purchase, and share some more pics when you get it!

[Stev-o]

Yes, it will be hard to shift.  Def ride it before you buy. Some sellers are reluctant to do this but tell him you're an experienced rider (bring helmet). 
If that bike has not been restored, it probably has just been well cared for it entire life and should be fine.
You will love riding it!

I see you are an aggie, in College Station?  I'm out by Lake Travis and a Lornghorn, ha!

[bryanj]

Things that are wrong and reduce the value:-

Exhaust system(with brackets)
Proper Seat cover
No fork gaiters

These are all all expensive parts

[TwoTired]

For that money, I'd insist on a stock exhaust system.  Or, a drop in price to compensate for the cheap exhaust changeover.
I cant imagine the bearings could have good bad, unless it is a flood bike restoration.
It would be a good idea to renew the head bearing grease, though.

My biggest concern would be for the clutch.  If the bike jumps/lurches when going from the neutral to 1st, the clutch is dragging.  If while standing still it is very difficult to select neutral from either 1st or 2nd, then the clutch is dragging.  The clutch actuation mechanism can be a challenge to make operate precisely.
A dragging clutch, if uncorrected, leads to transmission and or shifter mechanism damage, which requires engine out of frame and the cases split.

As Bryan mentioned, the fork accordian gaitors are missing, and the seat cover is a cheap replacement.  I'd certainly knock off asking price value for those items, as well as the exhaust.  It looks as though the bike was restored with maximum profit as motivation.  ...And, for an uninformed buyer.

I'll agree it is a very nice looking bike, but needs about $1500 in parts (add labor) to restore to the "original" condition asking price he is trying to get.

It depends on how bad you want it.  And, if you are willing to work on the bike yourself.  It will need tune-ups and other routine maintenance every 3000 miles.  Remember, the condition of the bike will degrade as you use it.  If that is worth paying for, then go for it.

Cheers,

[Duanob]

If the fork gators are gone you could be looking at a fork rebuild. The gators are there to keep water out of your fork seals and fork oil.

I would knock at least $895 off the asking price to start because that's what a new exhaust system will cost you. $2200 to $2500 sounds more reasonable for that bike and that would be in my neighborhood here in the PNW. And stuff ain't cheap around here.

Other than that it's a nice looking bike very original looking.

Does it have a current title?

[matt_aggie04]

I was under the impression the seat cover was original, how can I tell?  I knew the exhaust was aftermarket and that did not concern me a great deal. It has a clear title from Texas and is licensed and inspected, ready to ride. I'm gonna go look at it and be very critical of the clutch/transmission and hope they are good to go. I have a man that lives near me that comes highly recommended for working on older Hondas and seems very reason my priced and I think I could have the forks rebuilt and new gators installed. The headlight has been upgraded internally to an HID, I don't know what value if any is in that but I like the idea of a bright headlight. It also has a new battery. My biggest concern is I don't want to buy it and not like it and then lose my shirt if I want to sell it in a few months. As long as I can get my money bak out if it I will be happy.
Matt

[bollingball]

You will not get your money back on a resale for that price in less than two years IMO. You will not check the bearings other than feel. It is over priced without the stock exhaust. Is the front fender stock? You will buy the bike. It is to late you have already made up your mind

Ken

[TwoTired]

I was under the impression the seat cover was original, how can I tell? 

The original had an embossed grid pattern inset on the top.  The embossed grooves are where the vinyl splits when it gets brittle with age.

I might be able to supply a picture of the original pattern seat. (Split, of course).

My biggest concern is I don't want to buy it and not like it and then lose my shirt if I want to sell it in a few months. As long as I can get my money bak out if it I will be happy.

Then you'd better be VERY patient to wait for your price, be a VERY good salesmen, and sell to someone who does not frequent this forum.

It is a really fun bike, but they were never a good investment money-wise.  You pay for the fun in almost all instances.  Antiques are niche market.  And, with low demand, spotty sales follows.

If you think another shiny thing will be more attractive latter, then you'd better pass on this one.

Cheers,

[matt_aggie04]

Good eye on the front fender. I went online and started comparing to factory and it appears it is missing the front support that goes over fender from the hub. With all of these extra eyes on here I am glad I can now point these items out when I look tomorrow. I am starting to think that $2500 really is the most I should spend on it. I may come home empty handed but I am in no hurry to buy and dot want to end up with a bike that I pay too much for.

[toytuff]

I have fender braces off a CB 350 F. Might be the same.

tt

[matt_aggie04]

It was close, but no cigar....the search continues.

[Stev-o]

It was close, but no cigar....the search continues.

C'mon man, we need more details than that!   

[lucky]

It is not just mileage and condition. It is all the years that have passed.


A 30 year old motorcycle needs some DEEP cleaning and corrosion restoration.
Sometimes a complete restoration is needed to prevent further damage.

[matt_aggie04]

Thats just it!  It was a good bike to take and restore in my opinion but I am not going to pay restored price for a bike that needs work.  Some surface rust spots on the frame, paint blemishes and scratches, missing fender piece on the front, new seat cover, electric start button missing.  All little things I know but all effect the price not to mention the the non original exhaust.  For $2K or $2200 I probably would have pulled the trigger but it just wasnt what I was looking to buy.

[That 70s Bike]

That Jade Green is my favorite of all the CB colors. Next would be Boss Maroon, then the ever popular Sunburst Orange which I owned in 1975.
Something else to be aware of when considering the 71'~'76 cb500-550. The steel rocker arm shafts would rock & ruin the aluminum cyl. head cover they were in, then the rocker arms & cam lobes. It happened to me in '75 on a used '74 cb550 with 11,000 miles. I had to buy a costly new head cover of same failed design. The Honda parts counter guy said, "yeah, the CB750 has locks on the shafts" I wanted to drill & tap set screws w/ locktite through the top of the cover but didn't.
Honda finally added 4 nut & bolts to correct this for the last 2 years (77-78) of the cb550 & touted the replacement part now as "improved" for something they should've done from the start. I called it designed sabotage.    See bulletin #8     
http://www.sohc4.net/index.php/servicebulletins-cb500/