Author Topic: What are these? (Read 16932 times)

Stev-o · « **Reply #25 on:** August 18, 2012, 08:20:19 PM »

Hard to tell - is it really dirty or is it rust? That is not how most mount the club man bars, but may be more comfortable?
The brake systems do look good, are they operating? The bike has loads of potential.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #26 on:** August 18, 2012, 08:45:02 PM »

Well, if you don't have a blast cabinet and huge tank air compressor you are gonna need one. Plenty of plastic bead or glass bead media too. Polished edges on those rim spokes would pop.

They didn't mess around with small holes on drilling those discs, those are some huge holes and pretty close to the outer edge. What are they 3/8th of an inch?

Interesting body. If the ethanol fuel doesn't permeate the tank, then you'll be good, otherwise you'll need to put a caswell, POR15, or other ethanol impervious liner in the tank.

Looks like it will be a fun project bike! Take tons of pictures as you disassemble and back them up & print a book of them to help reassembly.

David

goldarrow · « **Reply #27 on:** August 18, 2012, 09:53:20 PM »

Quote from: Sdsbassist on August 17, 2012, 07:58:35 PM

Get a hitch and a cheap ass utility trailer. My wife would kill me hauling a bike like that

My wife drives a 2010 outback, do she doesnt care about this one all that much. Besides I use the element to haul stuffs. No room to park trailer, or the HOA will go wild parking on the street

The body kit looks like a later 750 hawk body but this is all one piece, and seems like it has been sealed

There are lots of surface rust on the frames but I think those should clean off easy with sandblast or wire wheel. I blasted off the mag wheels with high pressure water, some dust, grease, black paint came off to show gold surface underneath. I thought these wheels are aluminum? Could there be another layer of gold paint? They are pitted and will need good cleaning

754 · « **Reply #28 on:** August 18, 2012, 10:09:10 PM »

Be real careful, they are magnesium, thought that was what you were excited about... a bit harder to take care of, easier to screw up mut lighter more exotic wheels...

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #29 on:** August 18, 2012, 10:14:46 PM »

Quote

Be real careful, they are magnesium,

+ 100, Magnesium is a completely different animal to "normal" alloy wheels...

goldarrow · « **Reply #30 on:** August 18, 2012, 11:22:37 PM »

Quote from: 754 on August 18, 2012, 10:09:10 PM

Be real careful, they are magnesium, thought that was what you were excited about... a bit harder to take care of, easier to screw up mut lighter more exotic wheels...

I hate true-ing the spokes. I was excited about it just because the were mag wheels. Didn't know what they were, and still don't know what they are.

Quick google search will bring up plenty of results but can't seem to find the history of them and that's what I'm more into.

Now, how to clean them?
Some guy on the net said sandblast, then coat with couple layers of resin to protect from future oxidization. Would this be ok to do?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #31 on:** August 18, 2012, 11:55:05 PM »

Voxvonda has some experience refinishing or having mag wheels refinished. If bare metal is exposed it will oxidize quickly.

Dave K · « **Reply #32 on:** August 19, 2012, 06:55:42 PM »

Hmmmm, good to hear that it will fit in an Element. Been thinking about getting one. Now I know.

goldarrow · « **Reply #33 on:** August 20, 2012, 08:00:08 AM »

Quote from: Dave K on August 19, 2012, 06:55:42 PM

Hmmmm, good to hear that it will fit in an Element. Been thinking about getting one. Now I know.

Can be done.
- push passenger seat all the way to the front
- cover front seat armrests, if forks on bike is greasy
- fold up the rear seats
- lower the handlebar on the bike
- let air out in the front tire
- remove exhaust to prevent damage
- remove seat on bike, perhaps tank also
- haul the bike in, slightly lean to passenger side if the car
- tie the frame to the passenger "oh-sh!t" handles

And on your way home

Rookster · « **Reply #34 on:** August 20, 2012, 08:10:34 AM »

You're going to have to either paint the wheels for now or coat them with some type of grease until you decide what to do with them. They will oxidize just exposed to air. There was a guy on the jockey journal with a set of kimtabs that had oxidized badly on the inside of the rims. They were basically un-fixable with huge pits and deterioration of the tire bead surface. Be careful with them. One wheel is worth more than you paid for the bike.

Scott

Really? · « **Reply #35 on:** August 20, 2012, 08:19:56 AM »

Those kimtabs remind me of the wheels I had on my Mongoose back in the 70's.

goldarrow · « **Reply #36 on:** August 20, 2012, 08:23:42 AM »

I just saw those yesterday at the swap meet! Are or were they marked chatsworth, California?

They guy wanted $500 for his mongoose bike with those wheels!

goldarrow · « **Reply #37 on:** August 27, 2012, 10:32:56 AM »

Got the front wheel off the bike and did first round of soda blast. By the time i finished the blasting, i was pretty much covered in white soda. But the wheel Sure looks pretty and sexy in gold color.

The one piece body piece will probably go up for grab.

Some paint came off, many pitted spots don't.

Mounting flange on one side came off but chipped off also

the other side didn't come off

I want these wheels on my 550 now, but what do I have to make sure these will fit on 550? Can I use allballz front and rear bearings for straight swap?

Also found this site while searching the net how to restore magnesium wheels. They use Gibbs brand penetrant. What do you guys think? Ever heard of them?

http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

Here are pics of the wheels this morning
Plan on taking to a wheel shop to see what the have to say about restoring

Appreciate the help, comments, suggestion before I make more damage to either my wallet or wheels. Thanks

Stev-o · « **Reply #38 on:** August 27, 2012, 09:35:26 PM »

You couldn't blast all the paint off? I would be concerned that you will see the different layers once you paint.

goldarrow · « **Reply #39 on:** August 27, 2012, 09:44:54 PM »

Quote from: Stev-o on August 27, 2012, 09:35:26 PM

You couldn't blast all the paint off? I would be concerned that you will see the different layers once you paint.

some spots were hard to come off...or that may be because i have been using or re-using to soda media from my blasting cabinet. may be it's time to change to new bag of soda....i don't know.....

went to local wheel repair shop, but they only work on car wheels. they said to use some paint stripper, not the aircraft stripper as it may be too strong for magnesium. it may be difficult to find a place that repair/refinish bike wheels, or none exist? hmm....

Xnavylfr · « **Reply #40 on:** August 28, 2012, 06:04:15 AM »

IF you can media blast the wheels to a good smooth surface ,you could have them powdercoated in almost any color you can think of.
Henry's will have the name on the wheels as part of the casting/ QUITE OBVIOUS!!! If they are HENRY's the wheels are worth more than the bike!!!

Tracy bodies can still be found but not abundantly. That body looks like the PO did some glass work on the tail to mold in the tail light..

Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

Stev-o · « **Reply #41 on:** August 28, 2012, 06:13:03 AM »

+1 - contact powder coating co to refinish. Doubt there are shops that repair bike wheels, cheaper to buy new wheels for most bikes.

Here's another Tracy kit, been listed for at least a month, keeps lowering the price.

http://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/3224996695.html

goldarrow · « **Reply #42 on:** August 28, 2012, 10:30:51 AM »

Been seeing that bike like forever on both feebay and CL. Yes,I'm that bored at work.

Magnesium wheels are not to be powder coated due to heat

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #43 on:** August 28, 2012, 04:26:01 PM »

Look at ceramic coatings, usually they will strip the piece being coated .

PeWe · « **Reply #44 on:** August 29, 2012, 04:20:02 AM »

Really sure a Tracy body kit?
Here a thread about Tracy body kit http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=87671.0

I have recently seen another body kit where the owner of the garage filled with CB750's and parts claimed it was a Bimota body kit. Similar to this design shown here.
It look very good for me!
I guess that some CB750 people do not like the 80 design on a bike from the 70's

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #45 on:** August 29, 2012, 02:58:15 PM »

Quote from: PeWe on August 29, 2012, 04:20:02 AM

Really sure a Tracy body kit?
Here a thread about Tracy body kit http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=87671.0

I have recently seen another body kit where the owner of the garage filled with CB750's and parts claimed it was a Bimota body kit. Similar to this design shown here.
It look very good for me!
I guess that some CB750 people do not like the 80 design on a bike from the 70's

The bimota body kit for the 750 has a similar back end but the tank looks nothing like it, google HB1 Bimota, that is a Tracy kit....

RAFster122s · « **Reply #46 on:** September 02, 2012, 03:20:17 PM »

Looks like you are keeping the body kit from your thread where you were offerring it for sale. When you are done you will have a distinctive bike that will draw attention and lots of questions.

If the flange is aluminum you can use some of those aluminum repair rods to fix it. I forget the name... don't think it is LabMetal. One of them has a 2000 in the name. Aluminum alloy wheels are repaired using the stuff.

Think I would use a fresh bag of soda and if that didn't cut it I would go to plastic bead blast media, then to glass bead.

goldarrow · « **Reply #47 on:** September 05, 2012, 09:54:28 PM »

thanks RAFster, i think i found what you're refering to, it's call HTS-2000 - not cheap but looks promising. but would it be better to source a replacement part? or is this some unobtainable part?

just got a new fresh bag of soda, and will give it another blast when get a chance.

thanks

RAFster122s · « **Reply #48 on:** September 05, 2012, 10:15:54 PM »

I don't know 750s to know if that hub carrier? is common or not. Since it won't be visible you could use a metal filled epoxy and build it up then shape it. JB Weld makes a good one that I've seen used to fix a botched waterpump job on a PRV6 motor in a Volvo 260 Bertone. Repair held very well and they had to resurface the front of block where a Goodyear shop in Akron/Cleveland area melted the gasket sealing surface trying to remove a broken waterpump stud. They had to use a little silicon gasket sealer when reassembling.

Good luck with cleaning up the wheels! Hope the new soda does the trick.

fastbroshi · « **Reply #49 on:** September 05, 2012, 11:42:55 PM »

Be careful when you're blasting those wheels, that magnesium dust is very flammable and burns super hot. So if you're doing it in your garage, I'd be sure to turn off the water heater! Also from what I read the oxidation you see on the wheels, or magnesium oxide, is very alkaline(ic?). Apparently breathing the dust can cause a flu like condition called "metal fume fever".

http://nj.gov/health/eoh/rtkweb/documents/fs/1136.pdf

If it were me I'd figure out what I wanted to do with the wheels first and let someone else blast them.

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Author Topic: What are these? (Read 16932 times)