Topic: Trixie - 1977 CB750K - Project

[BrockSamson]

I can't stand it, clutch STILL slipping.  I am going to suck it up and get to measuring the clutch plates and springs and order new ones if needed.  I can't stand throwing back the throttle and that power not being transferred to the pavement...

[BrockSamson]

I went ahead and just ordered a new APE heavy duty clutch I also got the clutch nut tool from cycleX.

I went with APE because they are a site sponsor and that they seem to have a really good product for a good price.  It might be a little grabby and the clutch springs may or may not make the clutch pull more difficult.. but I think it will be worth it putting in a product that has been tried and proven for applications that put down far more power than I do.

For $110 it is nice knowing I will have a new reliable clutch.

[BrockSamson]

Does anyone know if APE still has fitment issues with the late model clutch baskets? 

I sent them an email directly, waiting for a response.

I also want to know if I just use their replacement friction disks and the heavy duty springs... will it fit similar to using standard Honda friction disks? 

I told APE that if there were fitment issues with the kit that I wanted to cancel my order, get the heavy duty springs only and I will get standard replacement friction disks.

Also one more very random question... but has anyone ironed on the SOHC-4 Forum Member patch?  I am wondering if it did a good job of adhering or if I would need to buy a needle and thread.

Thanks!

[BrockSamson]

What I meant above is that I would not add the extra plates.  I imagine that APE has been asked these questions multiple times so hopefully they can just give me a straight answer. 

By the way, I love how every time there is a problem that I think is obscure or weird there is already someone who has encountered the problem.  Examples:  My engine running horribly in the rain, my MAC exhaust baffle rattling and sounding terrible and what I need to do to remove my Tach and Speedo. 

I know I am mostly talking to myself here, my project is very slow moving and not very sexy... but it sure feels like I am just keeping a diary of my motorcycle thoughts and on goings. haha.

In other random news, I am close to having my hands on a beautiful 60s Schott jacket.  This ebay seller has been working with me in finding a jacket that will fit and I will definitely have to suggest to others looking for a good jacket:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/penny-bizarre/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

[Boulevard_beck]

You've got a few people still following along for the ride. But, if you end up buying this jacket, you might really be on your own: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-50s-LEVIS-Big-E-SUEDE-Western-Denim-Jacket-Small-/230809603000?pt=UK_Men_s_Coats_Jackets&hash=item35bd530bb8 

[BrockSamson]

hahaha!  I was actually looking for something with a lot of tassels.   

[BrockSamson]

So APE... well Jay got right back to me.  Glad to see everyone was correct about their service being great:

"We have made this clutch kit since the the early 70s and have never heard on a problem installing it in any model 750 sohc.   The last couple of years did have a plate with wider tabs, but ours has always work without issue. "

Can't argue with his knowledge and experience.  Told him to send it on over.  Will update here once that installation is complete.

[BrockSamson]

Got the parts from APE and they arrived very quickly.  I am delaying the installation of the clutch because I was trying to do this as cheaply as possible and at first decided I would attempt to do this without replacing the clutch cable, clutch cover gasket, etc.  I thought about it over the weekend and I really don't want to leave a weak link and have something else to blame for improper clutch functionality.  Also if I started hemorrhaging oil because I choose not to replace a gasket I would be really upset with myself.  I also picked up another steel plate just in case the double thick plate in my 77 causes a fitment issue (Jay/APE assured me this wouldn't happen but I don't want to gut the clutch and not have a backup plan).  I also am going to swing by Sears and get a proper craftsman impact screw driver as is suggested by a few people. 

Joker also has a nice billet tach cable plug that I am going to get for when I remove my tach.  I have no plans to restore the bike and I am fully going cafe with it and those are two items I can remove while still maintaining safety.  I decided I am going to maintain my turn signals, I know all the hand signals.. that isn't the problem I am just worried about other drivers not understanding my intentions to change lane... or just not seeing me and ultimately laying me out across the pavement.

I am also thinking of removing the notification lights (neutral, oil, blinker, etc.)  and either not having them at all or going with a more minimalist approach with maybe the option joker offers.  I would install an oil pressure gauge into the galley if I removed the setup entirely.  When I take the gauges off I am going to see how everything looks and make decisions after that.  I think ultimately if it doesn't look odd I would just like to maintain the notification lights... I just wonder if it will look goofy.

BTW I am still looking for an ignition switch option that isn't a piece of Sh|t.  The one I got from VintageCB750 is complete garbage, but still functions if I reach in and hold the back end of it together and turn the key.  If anyone has suggestions could you send me a link?

I am also considering just installing a multi position switch to replace the ignition all together.  Given that it takes someone 15-20 minutes to completely replace the ignition I seriously wonder if removing it entirely really increases the risk of having my bike stolen.  Also from what I understand the bad guys aren't exactly chomping at the bit to get their hands on our bikes, its more the modern sport bikes that are at the top of the list.

Well there is my update.  As always, I appreciate any comments or criticism. 

[TrueSpin]

For the ignition switch, I had the same problem with replacement internals.
I use the replacement switch puck with the original plastic shell now, and no more problems.

If you don't have the original shell, I recently picked up a complete lock set from anoter forum member and can send you the shell for a few bucks over shipping.

[BrockSamson]

 

I like what I am hearing.  Are you saying that I can use the original plastic shell and utilize the new internals and new key?  I had to replace because I lost my one and only key. 

[TrueSpin]

Wait, wait. What did you buy? I had a problem where turning the key did nothing because the two copper contacts inside the switch puck were so gummed up and half melted they wouldn't touch anything. I bought a new puck and shell to replace the bad parts, but the shell failed in about 3-4 months in the way you describe. I replaced the shell with the original, and haven't had any problems since.

As long as what you bought is the same big lock cylinder with the steering head lock in it, you can swap out the plastic shells with your original and you should be good to go.

I assume you bought this: Ignition Switch with fork lock and keys - OEM Ref. # 35100-377-003/007,
35100-422-017

Fits: Honda CB750K (1977-78)
CB750F (1976-78) Supersport,
CB750A (1976-78) Automatic
Part #: 12-0051

If so, pop that bottom plastic trash off, keep the puck, and get the same plastic shell from your OEM switch.

[BrockSamson]

Update:

I received my new clutch and encountered a lot of issues.  It is still in work and here is the thread where I received advice for that:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=109380.25

There are a couple frozen links in my chain and I am worried about safety so I ordered a new chain and sprockets.

I ordered an RK Racing Chain 530XS0Z1 X-Ring chain.  From what I read I know a regular HD chain would get the job done just fine with proper care.  I read about what O/X-Ring chains do and how they retain the lubrication and it didn't seem like bull#$%* to me.  Also read about 750 guys using them with good results.  I did purchase Blue Label after reading a thread from TT who explained black is great for the regular chains but could degrade the oil retainers on an O/X-Ring chain.

So as you can see I will be doing the 530 conversion.  I do not anticipate any problems as many people have done it and its very straight forward. 

I am getting really anxious to get back on the road and I hesitated to get the chain and sprockets because I didn't want anymore bike downtime... but I don't know anything about the chain, its age, brand... so it seems like it would be smart to put on a new part. 

[lucky]

I read about pods and their issues,then I found the velocity stacks and went that route instead before I even ran it(actually the pods were interfering with the choke linkage on the carb). Nothing different about my choke other than a custom cable mount to clear my speedometer. Bike runs great with the stacks (in my opinion) just some minor rejetting and fine tuning required (I'm still running abit rich but I'll sort that out come spring).

The jetting for velocity stacks and pods would be almost exactly the same.

[lucky]

Ok I need help.  I am a bit confused about float bowl height and measuring it.  I have searched and searched and blah blah blah and I got conflicting wording on how to properly measure. 

**NOTE** I am using a tape measure that has centimeters on it.  This not by any means accurate, I am still waiting for the more accurate measuring tool to come into the mail.

In the first picture you can see how I am measuring the float.  It is perfectly parallel to the carb.  Also this is where separation from seating on that valve begins to occur.  Right where the red arrow is pointing.  This is how I **think** I am supposed to measure this.  I am supposed to be at 14.5mm and it looks like I will be right on once I have the correct tool... at least in the ball park.

The second picture is me measuring with the float bowl pushed down.  I read somewhere that this is how you are supposed to measure and from the lowest point.  Not only does this not make sense it does not seem to line up with the actuation of the valve.  Also, its damn near impossible to take a picture of with two hands. haha.

Am I doing it right in the first picture?  Also, how do I adjust.  I can not figure out what the hell would adjust that.

Thanks!

Yes you seem confused.
Here is a photo that will help.

Here is a trick for this year of carbs.
When the top of the float is .570 thousandths or 14.5mm to the carb body a straight edge will lay right across the idle jet and the tops of the floats when the carbs are upside down.
Make sure the float needle pin is not depressed. Lay the carb on its side if necessary.

Thats it you are done.  The straight must line up with the top of that idle jet with out pushing the float up or down and you can adjust the tang to get that to happen if needed.

[BrockSamson]

Ha, thanks for the advise lucky.  I actually worked that all out a long while ago.  Those pictures would have been very helpful at the time.

The engine currently runs fantastic.  Just the clutch problem right now.   

[BrockSamson]

Worked through my clutch issues... FINALLY.  The APE clutch kit is great and I currently have no issues after 30-ish miles.  Shifts smooth, neutral is easy to find and absolutely no slip.

I switched to Rotella T oil, its oil and works.

During this time I also wrapped my headers and painted the tank, seat and side covers with the flat black truck bed liner.  The tank came out terrible, it was hard to prevent the runs so I will need to fix it.  From a couple feet away you do not notice... but I know its there.  Overall though, I like it.  I like that I can just spill gas or dump fluids on it and there is really no worry.  Also, given as much as you need to work on these antiques and having to take the seat and tank off... its nice to have something that will stand up to be moving around a lot.

Finally I picked up stainless hardware to replace the screws that easily strip.  I am very happy and installed most of them (I don't want to do the valve cover).  I used anti-seize after reading a few posts about what stainless hardware can do in different metals. 

All buttoned up and back from a recent ride.



What is next:
-I have a new X-Ring RK chain and JT sprockets for my 530 conversion. 

-New muffler/baffle for my exhaust.  I get a bit of a rattle and its louder than I like.  I like very much the CycleX reverse megaphone muffler that Lucky and some other people have used around here.  I hear it can be a bit a loud though.

-Get Hondaman's updated fuse set.  Mine is iffy looking and I like the idea of having modern fuses.


I am going to hold off on doing anything to the bike for a week so I can get riding time in.  I have had so much down time and would really like to get some miles on her before I have to do the chain and sprockets.

[xnoahx]

Nice looking build.  I like your front fender

[liPPy]

Bike looks good and I'm glad you were able to get the clutch issue sorted out.

Lossa also do a reverse cone muffler - Looks almost identical to the CycleX one but is a bit cheaper.
No idea how it performs but it looks nice! http://www.lossaengineering.com/shop/lossa-brand-reverse-cone-muffler/

[faithful489]

I was about to buy pods for my 77' but happened across this thread--and I'm glad I did. You always hear the pods make everything "so much easier" especially because they take up less room. And yes, they look pretty dang cool. I'm gonna opt for the stock box, so I need to figure out how to clean and maintain it.
Thanks guys.