There's also some other fine-tune sort of things that will help make this more 'stable':
1. Make sure the hose clamps on the carbs and head are tight, and the hoses are not leaking.
2. Make sure the valve lash is properly set. I use .003" all around on the post-1975 bikes, instead of the .002" intake, to help reduce this tendency.
3. Think about replacing the tiny O-rings that are on the air-fuel adjust screws, when you have the chance. They are old and likely cracked from age, and a crack in just one or two can cause this symptom to become annoying.
4. Make sure the condensors are relatively new. They have a life of about 3-5 years, depending on miles. When old, they shift in value (less when cold, more when hot), changing the length of the spark duration from about 1.0mS cold to 1.5mS hot. Many who installed my ignition also reported that the cold-bloodedness was much reduced.
5. Check your sparkplug caps' resistance. For either 'pair' (1-4 and 2-3) of plug caps, they must be within 950 ohms of each other. And, none should be more than 11,000 (11k) ohms. If you replace them, use the 5,000 ohm (5k) variety instead, today. This will improve the overall spark performance, and they will last longer.
6. Consider using the ND sparkplugs #X24ES-U instead of the D8EA that is marketed today. This latter plug is colder than the original D8ES-L that was designed for the bike, which is not available anymore. The X24ES-U is a superior match.
7. If you still have the stock airbox, consider getting a K&N gauze-style filter element inside. This helps a lot. If yours has individual pod air filters, consider finding a stock airbox to replace them, or this problem will plague you forever.
