Topic: My first bike: '78 CB750k

[fendersrule]

She will be Valley Green Metallic, almost sure of it.

I looked at your other bike Steve-o, and it didn't look green to me...maybe you had another color in mind?

I'm a green kinda guy. You don't see many green bikes around. When you do, they just kinda catch your eye!

[wheeliepop]

Mothers "back to black" works pretty good on saddles and rubber trim. I've had some good success with Ballistol also.

If you are trying to refresh rubber bits try soaking in xylene and wintergreen oil. 4:1. They will swell initially but don't freak out - the solvent will evaporate away eventually and leave the oil deep inside.

Incidentally, wiping down your sidewalls with xylene will clean up that weird new tire residue too.

Saddle looks great and nice work on the buckles!

[fendersrule]

Got the rear tire installed.

The only thing I greased was the axle shaft, and the obvious brake components.

I'm not supposed to have greased anything else, correct? Such as the brake hub, etc?

Also, looks like there's just one oil seal ring in there. There looks to be another spot for one on the other side (drum side), but I guess not.

[fendersrule]

Ok, already moved forward on the front sprocket. I'm going to trust my work on the rear brake/hub/wheel. Seems that everything locks in place real good, and it appears correct. I still think about all of those damn spacers on the axles (three of them). I suppose if any one of them were in the wrong position, then nothing would fit. Fair assumption? The repair manual doesn't make it extremely clear how exactly everything fits together, so I assume it would only fit one way.

We found some issues with the front sprocket area. Had to use an impact tool on the screws (of course). Here's what was beneath:


The bolt was lose. Great. Not only have I been driving it around without a master link, the bolt was lose on the front sprocket.


Removed the bolt with my fingers, and then found that the teeth wasn't fully on the sprocket.


Looks like there's a big ass washer back there. I then started to think that this bike was converted to the smaller sprocket/chain size.


After cleaning.


The spacer was 3mm.


The 630 Sprocket is on the bottom. This is indeed different.

So I guesss I'm not sure what to do. Here's some options.

Option A) Put new sprocket on without the spacer, which is stock. Once bolt is tightened, then there is some very small lateral wiggle with the sprocket.

Option B) Put the same spacer behind the new sprocket. However, the sprocket is only "halfway" seated on the teeth, but front sprocket gets tight when bolt is screwed in.

Option C) Get a thinner spacer.

The service manual mentions nothing about this topic, or even this area in-general. We tried Option B. But we found out that the spacer was adding too much because the chain wasn't completely parallel when looking at it running from the rear sprocket to the front sprocket. Not having a spacer would have made it much better.

Here's the new sprocket with the spacer in the back:


Here's the new sprocket without the spacer in the back:


Here's the rear of the sprocket:


Another thing I'm wondering about the sprocket: should the raised surface be installed like the above, or should I flip it to where the raise surface is towards the inside of the bike?

Help!

[fendersrule]

Seems like after some research, the front sprocket should wiggle side-to-side (but of course not front to back).

So I guess that solves that. That means the spacer can be removed.

Then it's just down to which way the sprocket is facing. I guess that just depends on which makes the chain more parallel.

[fendersrule]

Waited 10 days for this damn thing.


Roughly on and installed.


Hooked up the rear drum hub linkages.


Finished deep cleaning the right side exhaust pipes. Got them installed.

Will need to install the chain soon. Is there a step-by-step guide to chain replacement? The repair manual is pretty poor when it comes to sprockets and chains. I have random questions like, should I slide the wheel all the way forward, and then measure my chain slack at that, etc?

I installed the front sprocket without a spacer, with the raised edge facing towards the engine (I saw some responses on this from another thread). The "15" lettering winds up also facing towards the engine. Bad design.

Also, after tightening the front sprocket, there is no wiggle whatsoever. False alarm on that one. Even if there was, that's supposedly very normal.

My old front sprocket was a 14T. I bet this bike had the stock 630 setup changed out previously.

Things are coming to an end. Paint/body will certainly happen this winter because I'm going to run out of things to do. Glad I don't have to tear into the engine or fuss with the carbs.

[fendersrule]

[fendersrule]

I fixed all of the wiring issues. The culprit was in the switch. I also installed a new headlamp, and replaced the fuses as a good measure.

This was a couple days ago, when the left control was still hanging on the handlebars:








Just took it for a spin for the first time after redoing the brakes, sprockets, shocks, seat, and the chain. Rides really great. The shocks made a big difference. Feels more stiff and responsive. Need to fine-adjust the rear brake to get it just right. I want to make it difficult to lock it up, but I don't want a lot of play. This will iron out over time.

I guess I'm not going to be upgrading this thread for awhile. I've got a few random pieces of hardware on the way, but won't be worth an update. Going to be replacing the ignition switch, and replacing the side cover grommets. None of that is really worthy of an image.

I figure the next update I do is when the body work begins. Probably in a month or so. Thanks guys for hanging out along the way. Time to go spend some time away from the bike. What you've seen is a little over a months work, so I've been cooking.

Mr. Freeze: The ignition switch plastic piece (repair kit) is on the way. What needs to be removed in order to replace it?

[fendersrule]

Just did a quick photoshoot. Probably the last I'll ride it. 36F here...brr...

1978 Honda CB750 Restoration

[fendersrule]

I still can't tell if those handle bars are stock, would anyone know? Either way, they fit my long ass arms really good. I don't think I could ask for more comfortable bars.

[Stev-o]

Looks good, but time for paint!  Do you plan to outsource?

If you don't plan on riding for awhile, what precautions do you have in mind so it will be ready?
Keeping the tank full reduces the chance of condensation and rust. Drain the float bowls? Battery tender??

[fendersrule]

Great question. Is there a nice checklist somewhere of what to do for winter storage?

The tank will have to be emptied for body work. I plan to only outsource the actual act of spraying/cutting the top coat. Im handling the rest, which is 90% of it.

Basically, my next steps are:

1) Drain the tank completely. Is there a guide to cleaning the tank as well since now would be the best time for it?
2) Remove the tank badges, pin striping, lid, and lock.
3) Perform some metal work. There's a nasty dent around the fuel door that I'll have to handle with a stud puller.
4) Skim coat with regular professional filler, sand, rise and repeat. Start building with 2k urethane. I don't think I'm going to strip the tank, so I will only epoxy prime the bare metal areas from metal work. Finish by wet sanding with 600 grit, and finish with epoxy primer. Scuff it, and drop it off at a local shop. It will be show-bike paint quality. Probably will opt for two-stage.

Side covers is mostly the same steps, but I'm going to be using different filler for that to assure flexibility.

I want the same factory pin stripping on the tank only, but I don't want that hideous blue stripe that's in there. Anyone have any ideas?

[Stev-o]

Can't help you with a list for winterization, no need for it down here, I ride all year.  Search.

If your tank has rust inside, would be a good time to "Works" it or use vinegar and nuetralize  After that procedure, use a nice coating of two stroke oil to stop rust. 

As far as paint and striping, the possibilities are limitless. Have you visited the Inspiration thread?

[fendersrule]

Started on the body work.

Before:



After:


Here's the nasty dent that needs to be worked out:



And here's me doing it:



Finished:


Going to be removing the battery tray, center stand, and the side stand for blasting + powdercoating.

Should have the side covers and tank in Epoxy in the next few days.

Need to see about getting the same tank decal, but without the ugly blue line.

[Stev-o]

Nice work n the dent. You a "body man"?!

Here for the decals, with or w/o blue.  And most guys shoot clear over the decals.


http://knkcycles.com/honda-cb750-decals.htm

Or here, but call em, Honda prevents them from having the decals on their website?

http://www.reproductiondecals.com/default_frameset.html?content.html~main

[fendersrule]

Yeah. I'll have to call the first place and see if they can omit the red or the blue line. Shouldn't be a problem if they produce them. I just want the black and gold color.

[fendersrule]

Thanks for the compliment. I've done some body work in the past on some restorations. Also painted my dads car which is now treated as a show car.

Bikes go by so much faster!

[fendersrule]

A lovely Christmas present:

NOS style baby.

Ready for blasting + powder-coating:

[fendersrule]

Parts are bike. An exceptional powder coat job.





There were a couple rubber insulations that were baked off of the battery tray. Are they needed? How can I replace?

[fendersrule]

The taillight housing had some pretty bad rust. I did the best I can by vinegar soaking with a wire brush. I'm going to install it as-is, but in the future I may prep and paint this.

Before:


After:


I'm going to be rust treating + undercoating the underside of my rear fender in the next few days.

Progress has been very slow here due to the temperatures. My gas tank is blasted and the metal work is complete. Gotta wait until the temperature warms up so I can epoxy and begin the filling.

[fendersrule]

[Stev-o]

How did you apply the dip?

[toytuff]

Be ready for a fight when you install that center stand! Wow, I fought that thing for hours and used a floor jack to get it on. It was terrible!

Now that I scared you the bike is looking great. I love those 77/78 K models. Most don't.

I have a box full of stuff so let me know if you need anything. Best to PM.

tt

[iron_worker]

My stand went out like butta! A trick to getting the spring on (which I learned from here) is jamming pennies or washers between the coils of the springs. If you put in enough it will elongate the spring so you can easily get it on. Then just pop them out and it shrinks back down onto the hooks.

IW

[toytuff]

My stand went out like butta! A trick to getting the spring on (which I learned from here) is jamming pennies or washers between the coils of the springs. If you put in enough it will elongate the spring so you can easily get it on. Then just pop them out and it shrinks back down onto the hooks.

IW

Tried that, didn't work.

tt