Topic: Prepping and painting the tank

[zenocchio]

I am about to start painting the gas tank and a bit confused on the different products on the market.
I prepped the surface and applied few layers of bondo

I then spray it with sandable primer. The first one in this pic:

But i still have some imperfection and the shop teller suggested me to go with a filler primer, the second one in the pic above.

I then plan to sand it smooth and apply colour. I decided to go with a two tone theme, gold and dark green. The idea is to spray with gold first and mask it and go with green.  The doubt that I have now is the material compatibility as the green is enamel paint. I heard it is more resistant to gasoline but will it work for my application? I am afraid that being thicker it will result in a #$%*ty paint job. I could go the other way around and paint the stripes in gold I the two paints are compatible. And to finish give a couple of coats of clear.

Can someone with more experience home me their feedback?

This is the bike:

[Markcb750]

the primary issue with the spray can product will be resistance to gasoline.   if you can bake it it will be a little better,

I have had some luck with Disk Brake caliper paints on motors, particularly of I give them several weeks to cure.  Low gloss.


Nice job on the motor!

[zenocchio]

the primary issue with the spray can product will be resistance to gasoline.   if you can bake it it will be a little better,

I have had some luck with Disk Brake caliper paints on motors, particularly of I give them several weeks to cure.  Low gloss.


Nice job on the motor!

Thanks mate!
the tanks fits in my kitchen oven, so ill bake it for sure 

[rb550four]

What type of imperfections do you have? Air bubbles in the filler? filler at different levels? Is is a filler issue?

Filler, always use more than you need it shrinks , never sand with lower than 100 grit, get it in the ballpark with 100 but wider than the space you wanted to fill.
Go to 220 on a flat surface if you want it to turn out flat(no rises) leave enough past the edges to use 300 grit,until satisfied.
 There is spot putty for air holes that  may show up, use sparingly, sand with 300 on a sponge lightly until satisfied.
  Filler type /sandable primer 3 coats or so ,wet sand with 400grit  rolled over a sponge and use water, if sqweeged it should come up flat ,the shiny spots are the wet spots( lower surface)  can be reprimed if shallow enough and resand smooth with 400 around a sponge, you can only build it up so much before it'll give you trouble so don't do it more than twice. Wet sponge it clean and let it dry . wipe it again before painting it just to be sure it's clean. use gloves keep skin oils off of it.
  Best to paint the tunnel first when it's hanging.IMPORTANT use the same manufacturer and grade /type paint for each color on your 2 tone for compatabilities sake. numberous light even coats/no drips.let dry for 48 hrs
tape. 1/8" green tapefor edges- easy to bend-very sticky- won't allow bleed through. fill in with blue painters tape (don't soak it in paint ,can bleed thru). shoot the 2nd coat the same way as 1st, depending on design,you may want to remove the tape for a clean line before it's dry ,so be sure if that's the case that you leave a key in the tape that you can easily get and peel so you wont have to dig around wet paint with a razorblade to get an edge to peel. Take the tape off carefully and leave it all alone for 24hrs. then clear coat many even coats. give it a week wet sand with1200 grit and buff it out. done. be sure that the paint is not touching the rubber on your cap or the gas will get behind it and lift it. Use quality paint-it's just too much work to go through to use cheap paint. Good luck.     This is what I do , I'm sure that there is other ways.

[zenocchio]

What type of imperfections do you have? Air bubbles in the filler? filler at different levels? Is is a filler issue?

Filler, always use more than you need it shrinks , never sand with lower than 100 grit, get it in the ballpark with 100 but wider than the space you wanted to fill.
Go to 220 on a flat surface if you want it to turn out flat(no rises) leave enough past the edges to use 300 grit,until satisfied.
 There is spot putty for air holes that  may show up, use sparingly, sand with 300 on a sponge lightly until satisfied.
  Filler type /sandable primer 3 coats or so ,wet sand with 400grit  rolled over a sponge and use water, if sqweeged it should come up flat ,the shiny spots are the wet spots( lower surface)  can be reprimed if shallow enough and resand smooth with 400 around a sponge, you can only build it up so much before it'll give you trouble so don't do it more than twice. Wet sponge it clean and let it dry . wipe it again before painting it just to be sure it's clean. use gloves keep skin oils off of it.
  Best to paint the tunnel first when it's hanging.IMPORTANT use the same manufacturer and grade /type paint for each color on your 2 tone for compatabilities sake. numberous light even coats/no drips.let dry for 48 hrs
tape. 1/8" green tapefor edges- easy to bend-very sticky- won't allow bleed through. fill in with blue painters tape (don't soak it in paint ,can bleed thru). shoot the 2nd coat the same way as 1st, depending on design,you may want to remove the tape for a clean line before it's dry ,so be sure if that's the case that you leave a key in the tape that you can easily get and peel so you wont have to dig around wet paint with a razorblade to get an edge to peel. Take the tape off carefully and leave it all alone for 24hrs. then clear coat many even coats. give it a week wet sand with1200 grit and buff it out. done. be sure that the paint is not touching the rubber on your cap or the gas will get behind it and lift it. Use quality paint-it's just too much work to go through to use cheap paint. Good luck.     This is what I do , I'm sure that there is other ways.

thank you for the precious info, I will go with the same brand paint then. I will report back!

[lucky]

Once I took a motorcycle gas tank to a body shop and asked them about getting it painted.
It was bondo'd sanded and ready for primer.

The auto body man told me that it was not ready for primer.
When i asked why, he told me that the entire tank should be covered with Bondo,
not just the low spots, then sanded. He told me that before the Bondo sets up hard to work the Bondo while it is still soft the get it all shaped up, Then sand and primer it.

It made me upset but I did what he said and got a much better result.

As far as the issue with making the finish GAS proof, you can use that two part clear in those special spray cans. It works very well.
I put it over Rustoleum and it worked great.

[Retro Rocket]

Once I took a motorcycle gas tank to a body shop and asked them about getting it painted.When i asked why, he told me that the entire tank should be covered with Bondo,
not just the low spots, then sanded. He told me that before the Bondo sets up hard to work the Bondo while it is still soft the get it all shaped up, Then sand and primer it.

Well, i suppose he is entitled to his opinion but i would have to disagree, the less bondo the better...

[lucky]

Once I took a motorcycle gas tank to a body shop and asked them about getting it painted.When i asked why, he told me that the entire tank should be covered with Bondo,
not just the low spots, then sanded. He told me that before the Bondo sets up hard to work the Bondo while it is still soft the get it all shaped up, Then sand and primer it.

Well, i suppose he is entitled to his opinion but i would have to disagree, the less bondo the better...

The tank was new and was all clean metal. Lucky

[Retro Rocket]

Once I took a motorcycle gas tank to a body shop and asked them about getting it painted.When i asked why, he told me that the entire tank should be covered with Bondo,
not just the low spots, then sanded. He told me that before the Bondo sets up hard to work the Bondo while it is still soft the get it all shaped up, Then sand and primer it.

Well, i suppose he is entitled to his opinion but i would have to disagree, the less bondo the better...

The tank was new and was all clean metal. Lucky

Even more reason not to cover it in bondo..

[Vinhead1957]

The bondo that would be left after proper sanding would be minute. They use it on show car finishes to remove the slightest imperfections. Then use a primer/ filler to get it ready for paint. The wet sand and rubber Squeegy method points out imperfections that are corrected with sand/more coats cycle. The same method is used in the final clear coat with finer paper until its perfect. Some body men paint the primer with a contrasting color paint coat and wet sand to highlight the imperfections.

[Psychonaut]

Rattle can paint (lacquer) is not what you want for a tank. Gas or brake cleaner will kill it and it scratches very easily. Most auto paint shops can mix any color and put in a spray can for about $20-25. May sound like a lot but it is automotive paint, not rattle can junk. Prep is everything, don't throw away all that time with junk paint. You will #$%*t when it gets scratched or gas on it.  I don't know if you can, but if you can spray a clear acrylic urethane  over the rattle can you would be good. I don't know if that is something available pre mixed, I would think not. You will need a clear

As for primer. I always use the hi build (filler) primer.

[Retro Rocket]

The bondo that would be left after proper sanding would be minute. They use it on show car finishes to remove the slightest imperfections. Then use a primer/ filler to get it ready for paint. The wet sand and rubber Squeegy method points out imperfections that are corrected with sand/more coats cycle. The same method is used in the final clear coat with finer paper until its perfect. Some body men paint the primer with a contrasting color paint coat and wet sand to highlight the imperfections.

Been painting since 1979...

[zenocchio]

Thanks guys I really appreciate you input. So is the 2k clear coat the way to go?

[Retro Rocket]

Thanks guys I really appreciate you input. So is the 2k clear coat the way to go?

Yes, 2k is generally far more resilient and impervious to fuel spill damage to paint.... By a reputable brand, cheap paint is like cheap parts, you get what you pay for...

[rb550four]

I ve seen on those tv chopper shows, like OCC and jesse james, when a tank is made in house ,it'll usually get a full bondo treatment because it's pretty imperfect and not just stamped out, which brings me to a mustang tank that I bought new from the factory with stretch marks, weld marks and other striations that required a  Bondo coat before I could even think about primer. Wasn't happy then , am happy now. That skim coat lasted well so far.    Correction it wasn't actually "BONDO", it was the lime green type autobody filler, that sanded nicely, I like that and the GOLD one, easier to work with, holds up well.
   I don't use spray cans if I don't have to, so I'm only used to a 3 part clear coat, set up that can be shot. If you are able or set up to go this route it is far superior to rattle cans in every way, if you try it you'll never go back.

[Vinhead1957]

1979 got a few years on you! There is production and then this is perfection. Most of the bondo is sanded off. You should agree then

[Retro Rocket]

1979 got a few years on you! There is production and then this is perfection. Most of the bondo is sanded off. You should agree then

Yes it should almost all be sanded off, but with a relatively good tank there's no way in hell i would even consider covering the thing in bondo, I hate the stuff and would rather lead wipe, never ever seen anyone completely cover a tank in lead so why bother doing it with bondo. I live in a very humid environment and have seen many a bog {Aussie for bondo} job fail, so the less the better, especially on a tank that can swell in the heat and shrink in the cool of night helping the bondo fail....  If i had a tank that was so bad it needed to be fully covered i would just buy a new one...   

[Vinhead1957]

So there is a few lead men left? In the states a lot of old body men never made it to old! Even in the electronics manufacturing leadmen tell no tails. It is not used often here.

[Retro Rocket]

So there is a few lead men left? In the states a lot of old body men never made it to old! Even in the electronics manufacturing leadmen tell no tails. It is not used often here.

Its definitely a dieing art but there are still some around, I had a very good one locally but he recently went to NZ and set up shop there..
He wasn't a fan of bondo either and had all the old school tools to hand shrink metal without heat, he was an artist....

[Vinhead1957]

Today the metal is so thin it takes to much effort to attempt that kind of work and the industry wants new replacement parts. Money rules in all aspects industrial arts as it was once called is fading

[Retro Rocket]

Today the metal is so thin it takes to much effort to attempt that kind of work and the industry wants new replacement parts. Money rules in all aspects industrial arts as it was once called is fading

Yes, i agree, thats why i love old cars and bikes, they were made of real metal....

[Nic]

leadmen tell no tails.

Good one.

[kghost]

Just so you know......

I'd not recommend that you bondo, paint, and then stick it in the oven.

If you do....use a very low heat.

Otherwise you'll be looking at cracks in the paint where the bondo is very shortly.

I know this as I have done it.

[lucky]

Rattle can paint (lacquer) is not what you want for a tank. Gas or brake cleaner will kill it and it scratches very easily. Most auto paint shops can mix any color and put in a spray can for about $20-25. May sound like a lot but it is automotive paint, not rattle can junk. Prep is everything, don't throw away all that time with junk paint. You will #$%*t when it gets scratched or gas on it.  I don't know if you can, but if you can spray a clear acrylic urethane  over the rattle can you would be good. I don't know if that is something available pre mixed, I would think not. You will need a clear

As for primer. I always use the hi build (filler) primer.

YES...You can buy 2 part GAS PROOF clear paint now in a spray can.

It is a special spray can.
You push a button on the bottom of the can to activate the hardner.

It is gas proof and works very well. It costs about $17.00
I personally tried it. I tested it.

[zenocchio]

Done!