Topic: Best engine mods

[Nic]

Cheers mate, moolah is as usual, scarce. The Cycle X standard size ex valves are out of stock but should be available in a few weeks, I'm thinking to just put them in with new springs for a good solid result. Not wanting super performance but going for reliability with a tad better zip.

[Retro Rocket]

Cheers mate, moolah is as usual, scarce. The Cycle X standard size ex valves are out of stock but should be available in a few weeks, I'm thinking to just put them in with new springs for a good solid result. Not wanting super performance but going for reliability with a tad better zip.

Moolah is tight here as well, i'm going for balls out everything, I know, its a disease....   Talk to Mike about the valves as well, he may take a couple of days to answer but he will, he has one of my heads ATM, tell him i sent you...

Just thinking, ask Mike about stock size Manley valves....

[Schnell]

Cheers mate, moolah is as usual, scarce. The Cycle X standard size ex valves are out of stock but should be available in a few weeks, I'm thinking to just put them in with new springs for a good solid result. Not wanting super performance but going for reliability with a tad better zip.

Get new piston rings too, to completely seal up the combustion chamber, to go along with those new valves.

[Nic]

Cheers mate, moolah is as usual, scarce. The Cycle X standard size ex valves are out of stock but should be available in a few weeks, I'm thinking to just put them in with new springs for a good solid result. Not wanting super performance but going for reliability with a tad better zip.

Get new piston rings too, to max compression and min blow by, to go along with those new valves.

No worries, I've got 1st oversize pistons to go in. My original point about the 812 kit was that it's probably the cheapest way to get a good boost in HP, all this head work is way more expensive.

[nitrofish1]

I can clean up around the valves and new rings are not an issue, but once I buy a cam and springs that's 400 tied up in it already. A good mild port is another 400. Hence why I was looking at just a cam and springs.

I have yet to take measurements around the bearing surfaces, but so far there's no real noticeable play in them. Usually on the types of things I have to overhaul for work it's reached the trash point when there's a good amount of play between the mating surfaces.

The motor at this point is entirely apart, its going to be getting some fresh paint and fasteners. Lots of galvanic corrosion was present taking it apart, so all the fastener threads will be cleaned for a smooth reassembly.


Honestly, yes it's a 750 (736cc....), but I keep having this tiny little voice in the back of my head that says "Oh yeah, porting would make it go faster.... and so would this, and that, and this, and that..... its only another 200 dollars...." when the other side of my brain knows very well that it will be more than what I like to think of as "fast enough". Unfortunately my brain keeps drifting between the two extremes, when as like you all, moolah is scarce. Maybe I'll let that other side of my brain go wild when I purchase a big bore kit for something above 1000cc. I also realize that it's not going to be faster than its modern counterparts, but that does not bother me, nor cross my mind one bit, even as I was purchasing a non-running corroded pile of bike. My gf could not see the logic behind this decision, but I knew full well what the bike was, and it excited me. Yes, I'd rather buy something from 1975 that I have to put a year of work into rather than the newest sportbike. The PITA factor excites me, and it's much more satisfying. I'm creating a bike that is custom tailored to me, and how I would express myself if I were to build a bike. I'm no noob to building engines but I also need to show some restraint, especially when I know that the payoff for spending thousands of dollars is comparable to a bike from the same era that I could go purchase for a thousand dollars, right now. Now I just need to stop that other side of my brain from speaking lol.


Another question, is that Cycle X 4-2-1 exhaust system really way too loud to where I'd get in trouble for noise ordinances, or should I just go for it lol

[nitrofish1]

I'm asking the exhaust question because I'd like it to be loud but not ruin the mid range power curve by going with an open header.

[Retro Rocket]

I have no experience with Cyclex's exhaust but i imagine you could wrap the baffle with fiberglass matt and quieten it down a bit more. And by the way, i gave in to the voices years ago....

[Nic]

This is my first 750 since 79, in the good ol days I tinkered with big bores, cams and alloy rods and the faster the better. These days I'm thinkin a stock 750 will be plenty fast but, as I pull this down and that down I just keep finding things that need doing, so now I pull out the valves and I find that some clown before me has re-faced all the valves past their limits ( the guy I bought the bike off said the top end had been re, er, built? not by a long shot)  you could shave with the edges of the exhaust valves, shaking head now, so I need to buy all new valves,  do I spend a bit more and put in some bronze guides, the ones in there feel decent but why not the voice says, I can not block it out
The thing's 40 years old so it's no surprise that a lot of stuff is worn out, I just wish I spent what I had saved on the motor FIRST, I went and bought all the crap rubber stuff n all the things that I could have got one at a time when I should have spent on the motor first up. Now when I get into the motor I don't have the dough.

[Retro Rocket]

My opinion is , if you are changing valves then do the guides as well, won't cost much more and it saves a future pull down to do it anyway....    You know, better to be safe than sorry...

[nitrofish1]

I have no experience with Cyclex's exhaust but i imagine you could wrap the baffle with fiberglass matt and quieten it down a bit more. And by the way, i gave in to the voices years ago....

Well, for now I need to resist the voices, and ride with a few upgrades.

[Nic]

My opinion is , if you are changing valves then do the guides as well, won't cost much more and it saves a future pull down to do it anyway....    You know, better to be safe than sorry...

Yeah, that's what I keep hearing in my head