Topic: wheel bearing retainer questions

[jason41987]

well, i read through some guides that these retainers are a pain in the rear to take off at first.. i can see where the threads are peened together near the top of the retainer... so its my understanding i can either drill this out, or fabricate some sort of tool to force it to twist clockwise to loosen, but obviously takes more force to do so

so anyway, what i did was took a 2 foot long piece of steel, drilled 2 holes into it, then fixed two bolts into it so the tips of the bolts would fit into the recesses for the tool, allowing me to twist the steel rod.. however since theres no wheel on the hub, i cant hold the hub itself secure well enough to get that kind of force

so my idea is to take a 2x6 plank of wood i have laying around.. drill holes accordingly and then use the holes around the hub where the spokes attach at to bolt the hub to a block of wood, of which i can clamp down to a work bench while i use this tool to twist the retainer off.. anyone try this before? and do you think im going to have to drill the peened area out anyway? if so, about which size drill bit would i need?

but my real question is, whether i force it off, or drill the peened area out.. this was done to ensure the retainer doesnt come off on its own.. so what do people typically do to prevent this? re-peen it? loctite?

[BobbyR]

The answer is you must drill out the four staked spots. If you fail to do that you will bugger the threads and it will make re installation a problem. Just drill out the stakes and then you can use your tool to loosen the retainer.

The stales were put in there to hold the retainer from backing out but deforming the threads in those spots.  The deformed threads will tear up your good threads. Brute force is not the answer.

You homemade tool is exactly what most people use. Drill out those stakes and you will need much less leverage.

[CapeCafe]

the cleanest way to remove the retainer is to drill about 1/4 inch into the peens then use the tool you made to spin the retainer off.  Remember it is reverse threaded.  When you re-install, make sure to get it well started by hand and don't force it.  The threads are very fine and easily cross thread.  Use your tool to seat it back to the same position it was originally peened at, then drop some blue loctite into each drilled hole.

 

[jason41987]

interesting about the loctite.. what size drill bit should i use for this job?.. and i could just use the dimples left by the peening process as a center for the drill?

[Vinhead1957]

Mine was not reverse threaded! I tried clockwise and it didn't go far so I decided to rockier back and forth. Well guess what it came off counter clockwise 71 wheel

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dgcnhry1708avuw/Photo%20May%2002%2C%2012%2030%2058%20PM.jpg

[jason41987]

i have a '76 CB550F, and from what i could gather its either the original wheel, or atleast correct for this bike and from my understanding they all came off clockwise... i could be wrong though

[Vinhead1957]

I had thought that too before this one

[captain hopeless]

Drill out the old stakes. The tool I used to back the retainer out (after drilling the stakes) was a large bolt through a square washer, notched to match the retainer diameter (found the idea on this forum).

I re-staked using a 1mm punch and mallet to a depth of roughly 3mm on two opposite sides. I check it frequently and it hasn't moved.

[jason41987]

any idea what size drill bit should do the job?

[splitt]

I use a drill bit approximately the same diameter or on size larger as the punch marks. You don't need to take out much metal when you drill. Drill a little out, then try to turn the retainer

I use an adjustable pin wrench from Harbor Freight to turn the retainer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-pin-wrench-36554.html

[Bru-tom]

i used 10mm round bar to make my tool, nothing special and easy to make.

after a few attempts at making a tool and drilling the pop marks out... added heat and viola!



the handles were straight!





the helping hands...

[Brookesy in Oz]

Ha... i know where you're coming from with the last pic. Mongrel Job! Bearing Retainers... (mutter mutter) Mongrel Job!

[Bru-tom]

hahahaha, you can say that again! 

[jason41987]

well then, ill probably tackle this sometime next week as i work on other parts first... that pin wrench looks like an awesome idea, and as inexpensive as the materials to make a tool

[brandEn]

man you gotta make that last pic your avatar!

[Bru-tom]

well then, ill probably tackle this sometime next week as i work on other parts first... that pin wrench looks like an awesome idea, and as inexpensive as the materials to make a tool

i hope its strong enough mate, i used pipe extensions on either end of my tool and it was still very tight.

[Bru-tom]

man you gotta make that last pic your avatar!

hahaha, great idea

[bollingball]

any idea what size drill bit should do the job?

I just did this 10 minutes ago and 5/32 bit works fine for the (factory) punch marks. Also you will find some have right and/or left hand threads. I do not remember if this was a certain year change or a front to rear deal. But some are for sure different. Mine (78 750K) rear was right hand.

Ken

[jason41987]

you know.. it could be either one to be honest.. i know the hub i have fits the bike without modifications, i dont know which year its from though, when i purchased it, it came with a CB650 comstar on it that the previous owner must have later found out the sprockets didnt match and i dont think he ever made a spacer for them.. but i got a few extra wheels with it.. couple which appear to be consistant with the CB550, one CB750 rim with no hub, and the original comstar

the hub im using is the CB550 hub in very nice condition, i could easily polish the hub to look like brand new, spokes were bad though... the CB750 rim looked to be in decent enough condition, chrome has some pits, but no pits in the metal so im actually lacing the 2.15x18 rim to my CB550 hub since its a real pain in the rear to shop for 1.85x18 tires.. the 2.15 will allow me to go wider with more even wear and better performance.. but i wanted to replace the bearings in this hub before i did all that

one more question about the bearings.. kind of off-topic as its not relating to the retainer.. but i got a set of all balls bearings for the wheels which i believe are sealed bearings... so once i get the old ones out, i dont need to toss a hand full of grease on them, do i?

[jason41987]

well, i got the pin wrench and a 5/32 drill bit which seems to match perfectly.. so im ready to do this, my question though is are you sure about 1/4" depth? it seems a bit deep... has anyone measured how far they had to go to?

[flybox1]

2-3mm was all i needed to get past my punch marks 
K8 and K1 front rims were left handed, K8 rear was right handed..

[jason41987]

ok.. then i shouldnt have to go deeper than 1/8".. ill mark that off on my drill bit and drill in increments up to that point..

is there any risk of damage if you go to the full 1/8"

[flybox1]

the punch mark is there to fold the threads just enough to prevent the retainer from turning.  just replace the punch mark with a slightly larger drill mark, and you'll have all the folded material out so the retainer will spin.

[jason41987]

yeah.. i know the concept and how the peened sections crimp the threads together, and only go a couple threads deep.. was just wondering what the maximum depth was that i should have to go for it to be on the safe side

[bjbuchanan]

I suggest just the tip, works for me 

Tape off an 1/8" and see how that takes care of you, should be good enough