Topic: CB750K4. Light frame mod and performance upgrades.

[evanphi]

You can try adjusting the thread tension on the sewing machine. Also, try a thinner, less dense foam, and then stretch that over the thick, comfy foam.

[D-Ral]

I managed to get off work early, so I dropped by the fabric store and picked up some 1/4" foam in both low and high density formats to try. I also got some thin polyester to use as backing.

[D-Ral]

Seemed to work well until the thread jammed under the fabric again. I ended up breaking the gear that turns the bobbin teeth.

I could pay for the parts to fix my Singer, but I worry it will just happen again because it's not the right machine for the job. Or that the thread I'm using is #$%* or I'm using the wrong fabrics or all of the above. Or I could spend 200 bucks at an upholstery place. Either way, this is throwing my budget out of wack.

Ugh. How did I get from motorcycles to sewing machines? I think I'll take a break from the seat and concentrate on getting my foot controls mounted.

[evanphi]

Oh no! Broken machines suck. You can always try thrift shops. They usually have some kicking around. Most important thing is to go slow!

EDIT: And use a nice heavy needle!

[D-Ral]

Yeah. I ordered all of the gears on eBay for 20 bucks, which is pretty good. I'll do my best to rebuild it when they come in. If I haven't found an industrial machine locally to trade, I'll just give it a go again. I'm determined to make my own.

[evanphi]

Know any old grannies to hit up for some sewing advice?

[D-Ral]

Ha. My granny and mom told me I'd end up breaking my machine. That's the advice they had.

When I get  it fixed, I'll try the thinnest foam possible and I'll double check the thread I've been using. Plus, I'll get a leather needle and I'll move a lot slower. I think I was rushing it a bit.

[evanphi]

Plus, I'll get a leather needle and I'll move a lot slower. I think I was rushing it a bit.

Thar's what ya need. With the heavy vinyl and foam it creates a TON of friction for the thread. Might be possible to get waxed thread?

[D-Ral]

Yeah, I'll check that out. A fellow I met locally when I sold him some spare parts told me he uses a needle that is specifically for auto upholstery. Hmm. Another thing I'm going to check out is a roller presser foot. Seems like a good idea! I tried using a plastic foot, but that obviously didn't help much.

Another thing that I've noticed is that the longest stitch setting my machine has is 6 stitches per inch. Is that low enough?

[evanphi]

Another thing that I've noticed is that the longest stitch setting my machine has is 6 stitches per inch. Is that low enough?

Well you don't want to go too low because of all the material you're working with. Going too low will just cause you to sew through bunched up vinyl/foam, which can cause binding, as you've found out.

[D-Ral]

Finally finished grinding and sanding and then resized and mocked up my passenger mounts.



I contacted Rob at Bullit Customs on Friday. He told me my muffler and other stuff would be shipped out in the afternoon.

Also, for twenty bucks I purchased all new stainless hardware.



Not a bad price, I thought.

[Retro Rocket]

I would sit my foot on those rear peg mounts and make sure they don't interfere with your front foot pegs and controls, they look to be sitting quite low and forward,, nothing wrong with mounting the rear pegs a bit higher, have someone sit on the bike and check for comfort and position....

[snowman]

The stainless hardware you got, is it to replace all the bolts used on the frame and is it a prepackaged kit you bought?


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[D-Ral]

I would sit my foot on those rear peg mounts and make sure they don't interfere with your front foot pegs and controls, they look to be sitting quite low and forward,, nothing wrong with mounting the rear pegs a bit higher, have someone sit on the bike and check for comfort and position....

With the previous seat and stock pegs, the most comfortable position for me was if I had my toes as forward as heel peg but a set a little lower. Basically, I want the toe peg of my rearsets beside the brake spindle. As it is, if I mounted my pegs to the passenger mount, the toe peg would hit the spindle, so I need to space then out. And yeah, it would be a bit forward. However the spacer plate, or whatever you want to call it, will allow my more mounting options than just right on the mount for the passenger pegs. My idea is to make an aluminum plate, and drill 'speed holes.' I'll thread a few if them so the rearsets will have some adjustability. The plate will be about a half inch thick so the toe peg will clear the spindle.

[D-Ral]

The stainless hardware you got, is it to replace all the bolts used on the frame and is it a prepackaged kit you bought?


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I just made a list of every bolt I would need from the parts diagram and went to a local fasteners shop. Even got some extras. I'll probably need to go back and get some more that I have forgotten.

[snowman]

Thanks, the problem I'm having here in Montreal is all the fasteners shop I've contacted so far don't do retail or have a minimum buy, guess I will have to keep looking.


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[evanphi]

The stainless hardware you got, is it to replace all the bolts used on the frame and is it a prepackaged kit you bought?


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I just made a list of every bolt I would need from the parts diagram and went to a local fasteners shop. Even got some extras. I'll probably need to go back and get some more that I have forgotten.

Who did you do this with in Halifax? I'm having trouble in Saint John. Maybe they do mail order from Halifax?

[D-Ral]

It's called Transworld and they are on Waddell Avenue in Dartmouth. Super friendly staff.

[evanphi]

Cool thanks.

[D-Ral]

Alrighty. Haven't been updating much, but I've been doing #$%*. Sort of. I've decided against my previous idea for rearset mounts. I'll post up my new plan next time.

Currently, I'm working on my seat. Bought a new sewing machine, oiled and cleaned it all up and it works like a dream!

Decided to start by making a pleated seat cover. I originally wanted to add some panels to give it definition, but it seams (ha) easier to start this way.





So what next? How should I attach the pleated cover to the foam? Also, it looks like it'll be hard to do this without a panel of over the heel of the seat. I want cover the foam so that I can use Velcro to attach the finished seat to the pan. That way I can swap out a different seat later after I get some practice!

[evanphi]

Unless you want a super loose, sloppy fit, you need something solid to tack to. You could put snaps in the underside of your current frame rails/pan, and then on the pleated cover, but with that you have to get the snaps just right.

Maybe a secondary hard pan? Make a couple if you want to replace a seat in the future.
Easiest way to get it smooth and tight is staples/rivets into a hard pan. That one could then get bolted through to the hard pan you have on there now.

[D-Ral]

I hadn't even thought of a second solid pan. Good idea. However, if I use mild steel, will I not have to paint to prevent rust? Seems like a bit of a pain when you consider that this is all trial and error. I wonder if there is something else I could use... A pliable strong plastic, maybe.

[evanphi]

Yep, aluminium will work, or if steel is cheaper, just spray paint it!

[D-Ral]

I've been slacking on my thread. Surprisingly, I've managed to maintain motivation without documenting the build.

I find that I always accomplished less than expected when I spend day wrenching. My problem is that I get frustrated when I suddenly hit a wall. I don't like having a deadline, it's a little stressful. Anyway, usually I take a couple days and it's all good. Perspective is important. These are first world problems

Anyway, here is what I have been doing. I screwed my seat up, but I knew that would happen, as it was meant to be for practice anyway. However, a buddy of mine is just about to button up the engine on his KZ550 and all he needed was a seat. Rather than spend 200 bucks having one made, I told him I'd do one up for him. He was unsure at first, but after sewing up the top panel he was happy with it.

[D-Ral]

Similar to the pleated panel I had made for myself, I just made a sandwich of 1/2" foam and a cheap backing material.

In the meantime, he made a pan to bolt to his cowl, and shaped some closed cell foam. We predrilled holes for rivets and then sanded and painted the pan.

Next time, we will drill way more holes than we think we need. Especially around the turns.

We started at the middle of the seat on both sides and worked around the front using a heat gun. Then we did the back.





Looks pretty good! There are several mistakes, but I'm sure I'll iron them out when I do mine.