There are a few carb function charts on the web, you should take a look at one. I don't have a URL at the moment.
Carbs must be absolutely clean and should be roughly synced. All intake and exhaust equipment has to be installed. Float levels must be set to spec.
It's sweet if you have a brake dyno and EGA available.
If not, you do plug chops: you need time, an open road with no speed limit or no police, and a few jet sets or enough time to wait for new sets. You start with WOT at mid high RPM: WOT at redline is an unusual condition for a street bike and you will run into carb choking issues with stock carbs... so trying to tune it there generally doesn't work best. Warm up the motor thoroughly then do a high gear roll-on for as long as you can - I think 30 seconds is minimum - without getting into the top 10% of redline rpm. Use the brakes if you need to. Shut off the kill switch, pull in the clutch, and roll to a stop. Pull the plugs and check the insulator color.
First get the mixture at WOT good: light tan plugs or just over adiabatic (slightly rich) on an ega. That is all main jet, so you can only swap the mains until it's right.
Then you mark the throttle at 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 open. Do a plug chop or dymo/ega run at each. If they are relatively consistent (all lean, ok, or rich) you can shim the needles if needed to get it right. If not, you will need to change (near impossible since these needles aren't stocked in different profiles) or modify the needles. Modifying isn't really hard, you just thin each needle down a bit where they are lean. You can mark where the needle enters the emulsion tube at 1/2 throttle if it's lean there for example, and then thin it down for a few mm below that mark. I use brasso or solvol on a rag with the needle in a drill press, a few seconds squeeze where it's too thick removes a few thou. A micrometer can check actual diameters for matching once you get close.
From 1/4 throttle down things get complicated: the needle, pilot jet, airscrew, and slide cutout are all involved. The cutout is not fun to modify so get the best idle and roll-on you can with what you have unless you are very handy with a milling machine for increasing the cutout... I haven't found a good way to make a smaller cutout. Tuning is easiest with the stock intake system: using pods changes the intake airflow quite a bit - and getting good tuning with pods becomes much more of a chore (there are many experienced members here that will say it is not possible, and it's definitely close to impossible).
Although counter intuitive, it's not unusual to need smaller pilot jets with overbored and better breathing engines... you may also be OK with what you have or need larger. The airscrews on most Keihin street carbs have a limited travel that actually does anything. If you've opened them over 1 3/4 turns or closed them past 3/4 turn you should probably change the pilot jet size and try again.
If you use an EGA, the mixture should be fairly rich at idle and low throttle unless you have accelerator pumps: this helps reduce stumble at low rpms. Setting it close to adiabatic will have it stalling when you try to rev from idle. Accelerator pump carbs don't have this problem as badly but I've found that the idle is better when a bit rich anyway.
You can also adjust float level to change mixture, it affects low rpm/low throttle operation more than high rpm/open throttle. I think this, like cutout mods, is pretty much a last resort.
