Topic: Carburators advice needed

[bomber]

Hello
So, I took bottoms of carbs off as they where leaking, one more then others.
All rubber orings needs replacement and one carb which was pissing petrol has over flow pipe cracked all the way.

Also, one looks rather sad, (see pictures) compared to others, surface inside looks very strange not smooth at all.
I tried carb cleaner but it doesn't seems to celan this strange residue.

Any ideas how to clean it? do I need to clean it?

[toytuff]

Complete rebuild needed.

tt

[Tews19]

Agree with TT. Off the rack clean and replace all o rings

[tomkimberly]

If you can find it, carb dip, if not, some lemon juice will remove that white corrosion.

Tom

[lucky]

Hello
So, I took bottoms of carbs off as they where leaking, one more then others.
All rubber orings needs replacement and one carb which was pissing petrol has over flow pipe cracked all the way.

Also, one looks rather sad, (see pictures) compared to others, surface inside looks very strange not smooth at all.
I tried carb cleaner but it doesn't seems to celan this strange residue.

Any ideas how to clean it? do I need to clean it?

That "residue" is aluminum hydrochlorate=corrosion.
You can spray it with WD40. Brush with a tooth brush.  It will all go away.

Also you can dip into phosphoric acid(a very mild acid).
That will stop the corrosion.

[bomber]

Thank you for advice,
I was considering total rebuild but it looks pretty complicated.
Also, any suggestions what to clean it with?
Simple Green is not available in UK, I found this:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/059910035?da=1&TC=SRC-degreaser
think it will do the job, ultrasonic clean for all 4 carbs cost over £100 and I cant quite afford it, also I'm concerned about sending carbs away, I gave bike to classic mechanic in London and I'm pretty disappointed as he told me he cleaned carbs...
No more moaning.
One more thing, I have pods at the moment as air box is missing, so not sure if re jetting is needed, and I have carb rebuild kits but they will have original size needles. Bike is running OK now but not as smooth or power full as I would imagine it should.
Think best is to clean carbs and put it together with kits I have, hope it will run... fingers crossed!

[iron_worker]

If you own a classic bike you will at some point need to either clean the carbs or pay someone to do it. I say dig in and do it yourself!

IW

[toytuff]

If you can find it, carb dip, if not, some lemon juice will remove that white corrosion.

Tom

Found here at Walmart and auto stores. Don't over soak.

tt

[greenjeans]

+2 for doing it yourself.   It really isn't that big of a deal.   Just make sure that every hole and passage is spotless.

If there is one thing I've learned over the years with these beasts...  clean/spotless carbs = happy CB.

If you look at things long enough, you'll find, that it only goes back together one way.   You can usually get away with using the old main jets, needles and
slow jets as long as they haven't been mangled by POs.   I like to use new float needles and seats - nobody like dripping carbs.

[TwoTired]

That "residue" is aluminum hydrochlorate=corrosion.

Before some "unlucky" reader absorbs this as gospel, I suggest the reader do an internet search, trying to confirm.

While I agree it IS corrosion, I was of the belief it was zinc oxide.  As the casting alloy contains zinc.  And, zinc oxide is indeed white.

I believe the "white stuff" can be dissolved in acid.  However, acid will also dissolve more of the base casting metal.  Since there is already a good amount missing, perhaps too much on the main jet holder,  I'd shop for another carb body.  There is a member here that does micro welding, on these carbs (Jim).  Quite possible that there could be material added/micro welded to the jet holder area, so it could be machined back to service dimensions.
I have one that is corroded to badly for service.  I simply found another carb set.

[bomber]

Nothing like it in UK I'm afraid...
Will give a go to the degreaser form machine mart...

If you can find it, carb dip, if not, some lemon juice will remove that white corrosion.

Tom

Found here at Walmart and auto stores. Don't over soak.

tt

[bomber]

Hello,
I like an idea of new carb, but was looking for a couple of months on ebay, and not much luck.
They do pop every now and then but go for a lot of cash and usually in USA, shipping costs are crazy...

That white stuff makes taking out a float valve a mission imposible...
Will try good old vinegar tomorrow and dipping in degreaser.

That "residue" is aluminum hydrochlorate=corrosion.

Before some "unlucky" reader absorbs this as gospel, I suggest the reader do an internet search, trying to confirm.

While I agree it IS corrosion, I was of the belief it was zinc oxide.  As the casting alloy contains zinc.  And, zinc oxide is indeed white.

I believe the "white stuff" can be dissolved in acid.  However, acid will also dissolve more of the base casting metal.  Since there is already a good amount missing, perhaps too much on the main jet holder,  I'd shop for another carb body.  There is a member here that does micro welding, on these carbs (Jim).  Quite possible that there could be material added/micro welded to the jet holder area, so it could be machined back to service dimensions.
I have one that is corroded to badly for service.  I simply found another carb set.

[tomkimberly]

Hello
So, I took bottoms of carbs off as they where leaking, one more then others.
All rubber orings needs replacement and one carb which was pissing petrol has over flow pipe cracked all the way.

Also, one looks rather sad, (see pictures) compared to others, surface inside looks very strange not smooth at all.
I tried carb cleaner but it doesn't seems to celan this strange residue.

Any ideas how to clean it? do I need to clean it?

That "residue" is aluminum hydrochlorate=corrosion.
You can spray it with WD40. Brush with a tooth brush.  It will all go away.

Also you can dip into phosphoric acid(a very mild acid).
That will stop the corrosion.

Please don't use phosphoric acid as the carb bodies are made of zinc and will disolve away right before your eyes.

[lucky]

Thank you for advice,
I was considering total rebuild but it looks pretty complicated.
Also, any suggestions what to clean it with?
Simple Green is not available in UK, I found this:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/059910035?da=1&TC=SRC-degreaser
think it will do the job, ultrasonic clean for all 4 carbs cost over £100 and I cant quite afford it, also I'm concerned about sending carbs away, I gave bike to classic mechanic in London and I'm pretty disappointed as he told me he cleaned carbs...
No more moaning.
One more thing, I have pods at the moment as air box is missing, so not sure if re jetting is needed, and I have carb rebuild kits but they will have original size needles. Bike is running OK now but not as smooth or power full as I would imagine it should.
Think best is to clean carbs and put it together with kits I have, hope it will run... fingers crossed!

   

 I could save you a lot of hell with jetting the carbs but first you will have to say what year the carbs are and what kind of exhaust and it the exhaust has baffles.

[lucky]

That "residue" is aluminum hydrochlorate=corrosion.

Before some "unlucky" reader absorbs this as gospel, I suggest the reader do an internet search, trying to confirm.

While I agree it IS corrosion, I was of the belief it was zinc oxide.  As the casting alloy contains zinc.  And, zinc oxide is indeed white.

I believe the "white stuff" can be dissolved in acid.  However, acid will also dissolve more of the base casting metal.  Since there is already a good amount missing, perhaps too much on the main jet holder,  I'd shop for another carb body.  There is a member here that does micro welding, on these carbs (Jim).  Quite possible that there could be material added/micro welded to the jet holder area, so it could be machined back to service dimensions.
I have one that is corroded to badly for service.  I simply found another carb set.

I know what the "white" is because in is the same problem inside airplane wings when left untreated.

[reddyvv]

Please don't use phosphoric acid as the carb bodies are made of zinc and will disolve away right before your eyes.

Those carbs are made of aluminum. Do you mean to suggest a zinc coating? I would stand corrected, but I don't think any carb bodies have zinc coatings.

[Smoke Detector]

From one of your photos it appears you also have a broken leaf spring holding in main jet (only has one side). They are no longer made so a set of used carbs may be your best bet. +1 on carb cleaning yourself, go slow and do one carbs at a time if you want, so as to keep a correct example for reference as you go. Photos and google search on this forum are your friends.

[tomkimberly]

Please don't use phosphoric acid as the carb bodies are made of zinc and will dissolve away right before your eyes.

Those carbs are made of aluminum. Do you mean to suggest a zinc coating? I would stand corrected, but I don't think any carb bodies have zinc coatings.

Sorry, but those carbs (in fact, most carbs too) are make from a zinc alloy by die casting and will be destroyed by any acid stronger than lemon juice or vinegar.

Tom

[Gman]

Bomber,
+1 on doing the carbs yourself.  I have a 76 550k and tackled the carbs last summer.  First one was time consuming, second one, not as bad.  By the last one, I could have put it together with my eyes closed.  And, now I have a much better understanding of the inner workings, so when I read about the slides or clips or jets, etc., I know exactly what is being discussed. Finally, there is an immense satisfaction for taking something that is beat and making it function/look new again.  (Or nearly new  ).  It really wasn't that bad - just stay organized.  Do one at a time and keep the pieces for each carb together.  You can do it and there's lots of help here if you do get stuck.  Dig in!

Cheers,
G

[bomber]

I started with bucket of degreaser, then started taking it a part.
Took loads of shots.
Think I made mistake by separating linkage... I'm not sure if I'm taking it a part as intended...
I have to separate carbs as there is so much crap in small spaces around them.

Would love step by step instructions for my CB550F3 (papers say it is F form 1976  but engine number suggest that it is F3 1977) Carbs are Keihin 069A

I have cheap pods one for each carb and bodged 4 to 1 exhaust with... Lazer can, I intend to keep it this way as I have no cash to put it back to original.
Would carb rebuild kit with jest as supplied work? I read loads about re jetting pods being a nightmare 

[TwoTired]

Would carb rebuild kit with jest as supplied work? I read loads about re jetting pods being a nightmare 

Stock jets will work, but not well with the induction and exhaust mods.  Without a dyno or a test track, all you jetting choices will be guesses.  Maybe you are lucky?

069A carbs have  #98 mains and the slide needle in the 2nd groove from the top.  If you refuse the stock induction set up and keeping an open noisy pipe, then you will likely need to go to 105 mains and put the slide needle clip in the 4th notch from the top.
You will also probably need to screw the pilot screws inward about 3/4 turn out from fully seated.

Changing the slide needles requires a brand new vacuum balance.  Make plans.

[tomkimberly]

The only things you should use from the kits you buy are the rubber parts and the float needles. Re-use all the brass.

Tom

[bomber]

The only things you should use from the kits you buy are the rubber parts and the float needles. Re-use all the brass.

Tom

Hmmm not sure about this idea, float valve and needle have to use new as old one has different shape
Bike didn't run that well before so I like to try it with new bits.
I'm going to try get stock air filter on so that might help with sticking to stock stetup.

[bomber]

I know it is not a carb- should i sent new thread- but question is relevant as I like to use it rather then pods and hopefully it will be easier to set carbs.

This is my air box 
Or rather bits plus extras which i dont know what to do with
Rubbers needs replacement for sure
I'm missing
-spring clip which pushes filter in No 5
-bottom part of the filter No 19-22
- top bit No11

plus screws to hold it together

I was looking at it today and i noticed that new filter I got doesn't fit very well to the hole it should cover, should there be another rubber which holds it in right spot? Am I missing it? See arrow on my snap.

If I get rubbers (easy to buy) then I can put it together on the bike, question is would it work well without the bits I'm missing? Of course I will place it in the right spot with some kind of spring but bottom wil be open and so wil the top...

Any advice much appreciated.

[bomber]

I made good progress with cleaning, they are looking much better on the out side.
Cleaned all the mud but the stains from petrol are still there, I'm not to fussed about it, my aim is to have them working well.

I havent tried yet wd40 or vinegar on the inside, all the passages I could blow with air, on 2 carbs I took a part seemed fine, I'm not sure if i need to soak them any more.
I would love a compressor... to blast air properly thru it all.