Author Topic: JC's '75 cb550 cafe project (Read 9469 times)

mono · « **Reply #25 on:** August 20, 2013, 11:37:41 AM »

nice work! you really got a lot done fast. 2 things to comment on:

1. if you need a new brake piston, i can point you where to get one made out of stainless for about $40. my front brake was just a little pitted and would sometimes work but then inevitably start dragging again, so i replaced it.

2. I think everyone's shift lever leaks.

gspatc · « **Reply #26 on:** August 20, 2013, 08:11:34 PM »

Thanks Mono. The brake seems to be working well for now, but if it starts to give me problems again I'll definitely hit you up for that sourcing info.

gspatc · « **Reply #27 on:** August 24, 2013, 11:25:04 AM »

So I've got another problem that has left me scratching my head. When I bought the bike there was no speedometer cable installed, but the PO gave me a new one still in the package. That was one of the last things I was going to install when I put it all back together and it turns out it was too short so I had to order a new one. Not a big deal since I've had other things to tighten up since I got it running again. Here's the issue. I installed my new cable and the speedo is not working. I'm usually pretty good at trouble shooting, but I feel like I'm missing something. I know the drive gear on the front wheel is turning because I removed the cable from the speedometer side and went for a quick ride and the cable is spinning. I thought maybe the speedometer itself was broken so I tested it by re-attaching the speedometer and using a drill to spin the other end and nothing happened. I changed the direction of the drill and it ramped right up to thirty mph. I reattached that end back to the hub and went for a quick spin and NOTHING! I can only think of two things that could be happening. Either the cable is pulling out of the speedometer "slot" for some reason or the hub part is spinning the wrong direction (not likely). I'd appreciate any help or if you think I'm missing something please chime in.

gspatc · « **Reply #28 on:** August 24, 2013, 05:04:29 PM »

Well since I had some time this afternoon I thought I would see if I could come up with a solution to the speedometer problem. I ended up deciding to remove about half an inch of the vinyl sheath and then removed the barrel. I then took out the dremel and cut about half an inch of the metal that is underneath the vinyl off and then reinstalled and crimped the barrel. Hooked it back up to the speedometer and Voila! It works.

gspatc · « **Reply #29 on:** August 26, 2013, 06:26:29 PM »

I know this isn't the classified section, but I've got a couple things that I am looking to get rid of. If anyone in the greater St. Louis area is interested let me know. I really don't know anything about them except that they were installed on the bike at some point. The windjammer has had some kind of epoxy work done at some point to repair a crack or something and one of the turn signals is broken off, but could be reinstalled.

gspatc · « **Reply #30 on:** August 27, 2013, 12:08:56 PM »

Fairing is gone, but I still have the seat if anyone wants it. Just shoot me an offer. I like to barter too, so if you want to trade I'm open to that as well.

gspatc · « **Reply #31 on:** September 04, 2013, 10:14:36 AM »

Did the 550f's have a different rear brake foot lever design? The reason I ask is because I picked up a four into one exhaust from a guy off of CL for $10 and it prevents the foot pedal from being depressed.

wm6929 · « **Reply #32 on:** September 05, 2013, 07:20:18 AM »

Quote from: gspatc on September 04, 2013, 10:14:36 AM

Did the 550f's have a different rear brake foot lever design? The reason I ask is because I picked up a four into one exhaust from a guy off of CL for $10 and it prevents the foot pedal from being depressed.

Yes it did.

mono · « **Reply #33 on:** September 06, 2013, 09:11:40 AM »

Quote from: wm6929 on September 05, 2013, 07:20:18 AM

Quote from: gspatc on September 04, 2013, 10:14:36 AM
Did the 550f's have a different rear brake foot lever design? The reason I ask is because I picked up a four into one exhaust from a guy off of CL for $10 and it prevents the foot pedal from being depressed.

Yes it did.

if i recall correctly there was a thread a while back about an "awesome" modification job that someone's PO did to accommodate the F exhaust with the K brake lever.

If you want a 4-1 having to tinker, MAC makes a few that you can get for around $300 that fit nicely. I've had mine for 2 seasons now and it's holding up well - just some minor rusting where the headers meet the collector.

gspatc · « **Reply #34 on:** October 16, 2013, 10:45:49 AM »

It's been about 6 weeks since I've had the bike up and running and I have really enjoyed having. I took it to a vintage bike gathering a couple of weeks ago at a local brewery and it got a lot of attention which is always nice. It has been running and starting like a champ this whole time. Can you hear the "but" coming.

So this morning I go out to the garage to start it up and give everything the once over because I'm going to ride to work this afternoon and it won't start! The starter motor is engaging just fine, but I'm not getting any spark. I really hate to ask questions on the forum because you can almost always find the answer if you do enough searching, but I feel like I am missing something. Here is where I stand as of now.

I broke out the multi-meter and checked the voltage at the points. No voltage
I went back to the bullet connectors that the points connect to. No voltage

I had noticed that my neutral light wasn't on when I turned on the ignition so I think that may be an issue. I pull the headlight out of the bucket and check my voltage at the black wire that has 4 female bullet connectors on it and I'm not getting anything there.

So now I think I better start from the beginning of the circuit and trace backwards.
I checked the voltage coming off the ignition switch. 12 volts, good
If I'm getting 12v there I should be getting it at the headlight bucket, I unwrap the harness from the bucket to just past the ignition lead so that I can check the connection where it branches off.
1 wire of the branch goes to the rear stop switch 12 volts, good
1 wire of the branch goes forward to power the kill switch, neutral light, turn buzzer, (not installed), and one other that I'm drawing a blank on now because I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me.
I'm getting 12v where that branch is soldered together, but nothing in the bucket connector up front.

On a whim I disconnect the three male bullet connectors and retest. 12v, YEAH!
I plug in the kill switch connector 12v, Yeah!
There are two connections left when I plug one of them in. 12v, Yeah!
When I plug the other in 0, Nothing, WTF
Unplug it 12v

What the hell is going on! I can not figure this out for the life of me. Any guesses educated or otherwise would be greatly appreciated. I know it's got to be a simple fix.
unplug that line

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #35 on:** October 16, 2013, 11:18:31 AM »

Sounds like a bad kill switch.

mono · « **Reply #36 on:** October 16, 2013, 11:30:58 AM »

that switch isn't hard to take apart and check the connections on. stupid question: it's not OFF, is it? i only ask because i've done that ("WHY WON'T YOU STAAARTTT?

oh. because the kill switch is off..." *slap*)

gspatc · « **Reply #37 on:** October 16, 2013, 12:06:38 PM »

I'll double check when I get home, but I'm pretty sure I checked that earlier.

I should be able to test if it's the kill switch by simply completing the circuit with a jumper wire correct? I can't think of any reason that would damage anything can you?

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #38 on:** October 16, 2013, 02:01:00 PM »

Yes, a jumper should work fine. It's a simple binary on-off switch and not fused, so bypassing has the same effect as setting it to on.

gspatc · « **Reply #39 on:** October 17, 2013, 04:18:33 AM »

I tried a jumper and re-tested. I'm getting 12v at the coils and 12v down at the points, but still no spark at the plug. I can't believe that my coils both went bad at the same time. Could it be the points?

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #40 on:** October 17, 2013, 08:38:53 AM »

Could be bad condensers.

gspatc · « **Reply #41 on:** October 17, 2013, 05:47:10 PM »

FIXED! and you guys are not going to believe what the problem was. So as I was sitting at work all day thinking about the problem I was getting a little frustrated. I came home, broke out the multi-meter and started testing everything again......and again, and again. The thing that was really throwing me was the fact that the neutral and oil pressure light had stopped working. I kept trying to figure out why that would be happening. I was also having a really hard time believing that both coils or both condensors had magically gone bad in the span of a week. I decided that I should double check the points adjustment so I broke out the test light. Wouldn't you know it. With the jumper wire completely bypassing the kill switch the test light was not lighting up at any point in the cycle. HMMM. Maybe I should go back everything with the test light. When I got to the power feed in the headlight bucket it wouldn't light up. That's strange I thought. I was sure I was getting 12V there. I checked it with the multi-meter and sure enough 12V. HUH? How is that possible? I started to think that maybe that wire had a short in it.

So I take off the protective covering from the wiring harness and right there in the middle is a branch of that plain black wire with some old non-factory electrical tape on it. That broke off more than peeled off and low and behold I found the problem. At some point some yahoo spliced that wire for no good reason that I can think of and didn't bother to even solder it together. The wires were so corroded that they practically broke off when I unwound them. I trimmed them back, fixed them the right way and re-checked the circuit. Wouldn't you know it I have GREAT spark now! I took the jumper out and plugged everything back in the way it should be and I'm not kidding when I say it fired up about 1 second after I hit the start button.

Long story "short" (pun intended) I think the wire was connected just enough that it would pass 12v through, but as soon as there was ANY draw on the circuit it just couldn't handle it. Not even the draw the test lamp put on it. Put everything back together and took it for a quick spin to test it out. I very well might be imagining things, but I swear the bike performs better. Anyways thanks for all the helpful hints. There is NO way anyone could have figured this out without actually being here, but I sure do appreciate the hints. I will definitely be filing this little experience away to double check with my test light if everything seems to be working when it isn't.

mono · « **Reply #42 on:** October 18, 2013, 11:51:59 AM »

congrats! that's good to hear !

Oette · « **Reply #43 on:** October 19, 2013, 12:39:26 AM »

If you have still issues with oil running from the shift lever, you can replace the seal within minutes like the following.
Remove everything so the shifting axle stands alone and use a scriber and a small hammer to tap 2 small holes at 180 degree into the seal's metal ring. You really need just a slight tap here. Drive 2 thin wood-screws just some windings into the holes. Now you can pull the seal out of the engine easily with long nose pliers. To get the new seal in, clean the shifting axle, put some motor oil on it and push the ring right in front of its case. Finally do the same with the old seal to prevent damage to the new seal when using a pipe to push the new one carefully into the engine.

Be careful, some oil may come out of the bore for the axle when you pulled the old seal...

News:

Author Topic: JC's '75 cb550 cafe project (Read 9469 times)