Topic: Front Brakes Squeaking

[timmangan]

I recently changed the front brake pads on my cb550 four.

Unfortunately, I undid the tension spring (I now know that wasn't necessary)

But now the front wheel keeps squeaking. I keep adjusting it but cant seem to get it right.

Right now, it doesn't squeak unless I apply my front brakes, but if I apply them hard it doesn't squeak.

Is there another way to fix this, other than adjusting it after each ride?

Cheers

[Wobbly]

It has nothing to do with the spring. Take pads back out, clean any dust out inside the caliber, and use brake cleaner spray. Apply a little bit of brake grease on the back of the pads, reinstall.

[flybox1]

Be careful on the type of grease you use on the back of the pads.  Use tested, high temp silicon grease, like the Dow corning brand.  Brake heat can melt grease and cause all sorts of pad contamination and brake failure.
Cures for pad squeal.
Teflon pad between brake pads and caliper/piston.
Chamferred leading edge of brake pads.
Cleaned, deglazed, or cross drilled rotors, or any combination of these....
Good, properly set stationary pad gap, and controlled hard braking to bed new pads.

[timmangan]

Ah, I see.

What is that spring for?

Also, it was squeaking just when I was rolling without applying the front brakes, then I adjusted the spring and the squeaking stopped until the brakes were applied, that was what made me thing it was the spring.

Ill take the pads out and clean and grease them (the back of them

[Wobbly]

The spring is returning the caliber.
Don't forget: Take front wheel of the ground, tighten the adjuster bolt until the brake pad starts to touch the disc, then turn it back one half turn. 

[timmangan]

beautiful, thanks mate

[flybox1]

The only thing the spring does is maintain the stationary pad distance in relation to the rotor.  If it squeals, again, after it is adjusted properly, and the brakes applied, then the stationary pad is not the issue.  The pad on the caliper side is hanging up and not properly retracting.  You'll need to service the caliper, piston, and the piston seal, and possibly the master cylinder.

[dave500]

spin the wheel as you adjust that screw with the spring,i use silcone on the stationary pad around its edges to stop squeal,if you need to the piston activated pad can be done aswell,the silcone will flex enough to allow movement,stops all the squeal mostly,some brands just squeal more than others,try deglazing the disc with a large flat sharpening stone and soapy water.

[Dave-and-his-550]

spin the wheel as you adjust that screw with the spring,i use silcone on the stationary pad around its edges to stop squeal,if you need to the piston activated pad can be done aswell,the silcone will flex enough to allow movement,stops all the squeal mostly,some brands just squeal more than others,try deglazing the disc with a large flat sharpening stone and soapy water.

I recently fixed my leaking front brake by replacing the piston ring and cleaning out the caliper etc. I have new brake pads that have been on the bike for a few months, bike hasn't been ridden much.

Just a few questions about deglazing the disk: Is there a certain grit sandpaper that works well for this? Should I sand in a circular motion respective to the disk? Or just left to right over the entire disk or something similar?

[RAFster122s]

Red Scotchbrite can deglaze the rotor/disk.

[70CB750]

The squeak comes and goes, just nature of the beast.

[BobbyR]

spin the wheel as you adjust that screw with the spring,i use silcone on the stationary pad around its edges to stop squeal,if you need to the piston activated pad can be done aswell,the silcone will flex enough to allow movement,stops all the squeal mostly,some brands just squeal more than others,try deglazing the disc with a large flat sharpening stone and soapy water.

Dave, what type of silicone do you use and where do you put it? Is is the rubber sealant or is it the grease.

[HondanutRider]

Instead of applying hi-temp grease to the back of the stationary pad, I would use a hi-temp silicone gasket material (the type usually used for replacing or repairing gaskets).  This stuff should remain flexible but gels up and acts to both dampen vibrations and stick the pad in place.

Also, on the metal sides of the friction pad pucks I would use a light coating of anti-seize compound, which should keep the metal-to-metal contacts lubricated so the pads can slide in their housing on particularly the outer side of the caliper, as well as able to withstand the heat being generated.  I'd use the anti-seize here instead of grease. 

I'd use a very little bit of high temp grease (e.g. dielectric grease or Dow Hi-temp Silicone Brake grease) on top of the piston in the caliper where it would be exposed from the caliper body and before it contacts the back of the outer pad.  This is to keep debris and moisture from damaging the exposed portion of the piston and the top cylinder surface.

[dave500]

any sort of silicone bobbyr

[HondanutRider]

any sort of silicone bobbyr

What I've successfully used in the past was put out by Permatax and what they call "sensor -safe ULTRA GREY RTV Gasket Maker"  It's rated up to 329 Celcius.