Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 145276 times)

MickB · « **Reply #550 on:** February 28, 2015, 10:18:13 PM »

Valhad thanks, I'll take a photo and send it along with the dimensions of each of the slots. If it's the one giddy up.

MickB · « **Reply #551 on:** March 01, 2015, 12:22:10 AM »

Valhad here are some photos with dimensions. I need male and female sides. The new loom has blade connectors thus my dilemma and need.

A connector that needs replacing.

Valhad · « **Reply #552 on:** March 01, 2015, 01:38:05 PM »

The sub-loom I have does have that connector. I also have a less nice loom (no wrap/tape on wiring, couple frayed wires) with that connector, if you don't want the whole panel sub-loom piece I'd lop the connector off and mail just that. Both panel-loom connectors are used condition, but totally intact - the complete loom connectors have a bit of greening from corrosion.

But, I don't have the main harness side one. At least, not that I have found yet. If you're interested in half of the solution, let me know.

MickB · « **Reply #553 on:** March 01, 2015, 01:44:15 PM »

Mate I'd prefer to just plug in and go, I see there's a difference to 500 vs 550 sub looms. I'd prefer the better one of the 2 your suggesting, but if the lop off is a good one I'll go with that, BTW which photo is it on page 1 of your for sale parts? So I can see, I need the middle connectors male and female ends.

MickB · « **Reply #554 on:** March 01, 2015, 02:05:40 PM »

Valhalla I'll tell you what, if photo 30 of your for sale stuff is for a 500, I'll take the loom and the male and female connectors, also the rectifier that has the red plug, save cutting it I'll take the rectifier with the plug attached (I hope the rectifier still works). Regards
Mick

Valhad · « **Reply #555 on:** March 01, 2015, 02:06:34 PM »

This is the sub loom I've got. I have two more of the same male 9 pin connector, but none of the female side that holds the blades.

This is the corroded one, obviously. The two that are essentially loose are less so.

MickB · « **Reply #556 on:** March 01, 2015, 02:08:55 PM »

I'll pm you

bryanj · « **Reply #557 on:** March 02, 2015, 05:00:29 AM »

The pin one is very early 500, the blade ones are later 500 and 550. Th eblock you want is the same on all later 500 and 550 mate

MickB · « **Reply #558 on:** March 02, 2015, 10:09:51 AM »

BJ thanks, I've worked out that I have 2 options with the parts I have.
1st Use the plate I've restored and because I have a 9 pin plug coming from the alternator I could cut a piece from a an old plate (has the small pin style) and rivet it to the restored plate. I would end up with two blade style plugs and a pin style in the middle slot.
2nd Rewire an older style plate with all pin style (I've all the pin styles male & female ends).

Both are options, I'll probably go with option 1, but I'm not entirely sure yet.
Because I have 2 different plates, either way I have to work out how to extract the female end of the pin style to order rewire it to the plate. Does anyone know how to get the female pins out? I've worked out the male ends, just push them out.

One issue I have is to ensure I wire up the plug to the rectifier correctly as it plugs into the alternator and they both have 3 yellow wires, I presume I had better make sure the correct male end yellow wire goes into the correct female or I'm going to have trouble.

I need to sit down and look closely as to the best course, and as I write this it's becoming clearer to the best option, I think - now there's an oxymoron.

Also because I'm getting close to the end I'm wanting to finish it, BTW new clutch rod came yesterday, it's as new!

Valhad · « **Reply #559 on:** March 02, 2015, 10:43:35 AM »

Quote from: MickB on March 02, 2015, 10:09:51 AM

One issue I have is to ensure I wire up the plug to the rectifier correctly as it plugs into the alternator and they both have 3 yellow wires, I presume I had better make sure the correct male end yellow wire goes into the correct female or I'm going to have trouble.

As one small bonus to ease your mind, the order of those three yellow wires shouldn't matter. As long as they all end up at the rectifier, you should be just fine.

MickB · « **Reply #560 on:** March 02, 2015, 11:33:08 AM »

I wondered about that, but that's great to know thanks very much Valhad.

DH · « **Reply #561 on:** March 02, 2015, 11:37:43 AM »

Just to let you guys know, and not to interrupt, I have the 9 pin connector block (both halves, main harness/stator harness) in the older pin style. If this will help you mick, let me know. Just throwin this out there...

EDIT....just checked, I only have the STATOR harness with 9 pin connector. I'm late for the party, so again, sorry to interrupt, but if you need that harness, it is intact, and available. I'm guessing it plugs into the sub harness? I already sent that to a guy in the UK, (trigger?) i believe. ...good luck either way, and hope you guys get it sorted.

MickB · « **Reply #562 on:** March 02, 2015, 06:06:02 PM »

DH thanks mate, I have the stator harness also with the 9 pins, as said I'm unsure of the best course, first prize would be the male and female 9 pin blade style plug, that's my preference but I can't find a replacement plug that size.

MickB · « **Reply #563 on:** March 02, 2015, 10:08:52 PM »

I do however have all the plugs for pins and I think it would be better if it was all the same. It's become clear - all pins.
The '73 had pins, why didn't I check this first? My engine number is CB500E- 2…, so it would've been released in Oz in '73.

MickB · « **Reply #564 on:** March 02, 2015, 10:16:46 PM »

Another issue, the clutch adjuster still has the old ball bearing in it and I can't get it out as the opening is very very slightly burred. Do I need to get it out, I do have a new ball?
The ball is trapped but the opening in the adjuster doesn't interfere with the clutch rod, there's plenty of room for it.

Also how much grease should I put around the adjuster where it slides into the case?

bryanj · « **Reply #565 on:** March 03, 2015, 04:09:11 AM »

If the ball is loose enough to turn its OK and as to grease quantity LOTS. If the engine number starts with a 2 it should have blade type connectors

MickB · « **Reply #566 on:** March 03, 2015, 05:03:57 PM »

Quote from: MickB on March 02, 2015, 10:08:52 PM

The '73 had pins, why didn't I check this first? My engine number is CB500E- 2…, so it would've been released in Oz in '73.

BJ my engine starts with 2 but was probably registered here in Oz in '73, what about the Workshop picture? It's confusing.

bryanj · « **Reply #567 on:** March 04, 2015, 12:24:30 AM »

Don't believe the pictures in parts books, they use the same one for years and just change the numbers

MickB · « **Reply #568 on:** March 04, 2015, 02:31:08 AM »

They sure fooled me.

MickB · « **Reply #569 on:** March 06, 2015, 08:36:03 PM »

Just a question is the cam notch facing (backwards -towards the carbies), in the right direction? Particularly for timing and when I do the tappets.

Bootsey · « **Reply #570 on:** March 06, 2015, 09:22:31 PM »

Hey Mick,
Doesn't matter which way the notch faces, as long as the marking on the advancer is lined up with the slot in the case & the notch is parallel to the head.
Rotate the crank 360 & the notch should face forward and be parallel, and again the notch & advancer markings should be lined up.
Then to do the valve clearances, you need to use a table in the manual to figure out which tappets to do when.

Good info & explanation here
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=140288.msg1589150#msg1589150

MickB · « **Reply #571 on:** March 06, 2015, 11:53:41 PM »

Thanks Bootsey, I thought that was the case after reading your build.

MickB · « **Reply #572 on:** March 08, 2015, 10:38:42 PM »

Peeled off all the POR Lacquer which dulled the covers down, pulled off the clutch and checked the plates, all plates are in spec and reinstalled with the correct orientation of the corks, and installed the clutch rod, and - drum roll -all gears were found easily, clutch is working well.

Gear lever looks a little low, will readjust after sitting on the bike and the cover needs re polishing to get my greasy hand prints off.

The side stand looks like it should sit in further, it's not bent.

MickB · « **Reply #573 on:** March 09, 2015, 03:33:19 AM »

Cal, well picked, you must get a magnifying glass out and check out the photo, yes I have to get a push in one not a screw in one.

MickB · « **Reply #574 on:** March 09, 2015, 11:09:39 AM »

Dead Eye Dick.

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 145276 times)

DH