Author Topic: U.S. Stock vs Euros (Read 5574 times)

nccb · « **on:** January 02, 2014, 09:51:52 AM »

Just incase anybody wanted to see the difference between these two bars, here are some pictures. I know Andy has several good shots while they are on the bike, but here are some with the bars on the workbench so you can see them together.

You know, just for curiosities sake and not because I just want to post pictures

nccb · « **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2014, 09:52:37 AM »

On the bench:

Deltarider · « **Reply #2 on:** January 02, 2014, 09:59:14 AM »

The lower is a real motorcycle, the upper is... well, I don't know what. I guess it is an attempt to persuade people to ride that shouldn't. People that wanted a new toy or needed to sit up and beg. Could fat bellies be the reason?

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #3 on:** January 02, 2014, 10:01:15 AM »

Even if you have a belly the Euro's are more comfortable to ride.

andy750 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 02, 2014, 10:35:44 AM »

Very nice comparison!

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #5 on:** January 02, 2014, 10:49:20 AM »

Nice to see the difference.
US spec reminds me of my youth.

jerry h · « **Reply #6 on:** January 02, 2014, 12:46:28 PM »

Thanks for the pics

Been thinking about switching mine over for a while - so what brand/part number are the euro's you have? They look nice. I was going to order the David Silver K2 Euro bars, but they are now out of stock. I'd like to get some pre-drilled.

nccb · « **Reply #7 on:** January 02, 2014, 12:59:48 PM »

Quote from: jerry h on January 02, 2014, 12:46:28 PM

Thanks for the pics

Been thinking about switching mine over for a while - so what brand/part number are the euro's you have? They look nice. I was going to order the David Silver K2 Euro bars, but they are now out of stock. I'd like to get some pre-drilled.

Actually, these were the bike master brand. It wasn't hard to drill them out, truly wasn't, but it would have been nice to have them pre-drilled to save some time.

Bailgang · « **Reply #8 on:** January 02, 2014, 02:30:31 PM »

Quote from: Bankerdanny on January 02, 2014, 10:01:15 AM

Even if you have a belly the Euro's are more comfortable to ride.

+1, I loved the euro bars I had on my 550. I thought they were the perfect compromise between the factory bars and drag bars. It's all personal preference I guess but the euro bars suit me perfect.

fendersrule · « **Reply #9 on:** January 02, 2014, 02:33:25 PM »

Winner: Euros.

'77-79 CB750's have bars that are too high. These bikes look much better with K1 bars.

Keep in mind that CB750 bars are NOT equal. They differ by most years. What years are we looking at?

nccb · « **Reply #10 on:** January 02, 2014, 02:44:34 PM »

The stock bars shown are off of a K4

Sgt.Pinback · « **Reply #11 on:** January 02, 2014, 02:53:02 PM »

I think mine is something between those two and probably stock EURO K0:

kghost · « **Reply #12 on:** January 02, 2014, 03:06:59 PM »

I have one of each on my 2 K2's

Neither is really a bad bar......its the stupid crazy bars that get me like buckhorns or ape hangers or Z bars

The Euro is shorter with a bit more downward bend.........gets you leaning forward more into the wind at highway speed.

The taller US spec seems to be a bit more comfortable around town and at slow speeds

lucky · « **Reply #13 on:** January 02, 2014, 03:13:14 PM »

Quote from: Deltarider on January 02, 2014, 09:59:14 AM

The lower is a real motorcycle, the upper is... well, I don't know what. I guess it is an attempt to persuade people to ride that shouldn't. People that wanted a new toy or needed to sit up and beg. Could fat bellies be the reason?

When the bikes first came out there were no fat bellies.
There were no chain resuraunts.
Everyone had to serve in the military service.
There were no computers,no games and no big flat screen TV's.

nccb · « **Reply #14 on:** January 02, 2014, 03:19:54 PM »

SGT Pinback, those look tall for european style bars. Is the bike from Germany or US? I have no idea what Honda thought to make the bars so much higher except that the roads over here are a lot different (Longer and straighter) than those in Europe or Japan?

Carver · « **Reply #15 on:** January 02, 2014, 03:39:37 PM »

I just fitted euro bars on my bike. Im not gunna put them on yet because the PO put on a HD rear wheel and shorty shocks so it has a bobber feel to it.

Chachi · « **Reply #16 on:** January 03, 2014, 07:22:12 AM »

I was going to ask which bars you have as I just put on the DSS repros and they look a little different than yours. Makes sense why now (Bikemaster).

http://www.davidsilverspares.com/parts/by-part-number/partnumber_31695/

Don R · « **Reply #17 on:** January 03, 2014, 07:43:50 AM »

Remember, many of the 750's were being converted into highway cruisers with windjammer fairings. There weren't any Goldwings yet.
Euro bars don't fit them, Honda even changed their own bars to work with the fairings. The US has big long straight roads and we often spent a lot of time on our bikes. Look at how many of us have removed fairings, bags sissy bars and luggage racks. I had all that, mine are naked now but on a long trip a jammer would still make the ride easier. I have K0 bars on mine.

Sgt.Pinback · « **Reply #18 on:** January 03, 2014, 08:30:22 AM »

Quote from: nccb on January 02, 2014, 03:19:54 PM

SGT Pinback, those look tall for european style bars. Is the bike from Germany or US? I have no idea what Honda thought to make the bars so much higher except that the roads over here are a lot different (Longer and straighter) than those in Europe or Japan?

The bike is 3/70 German.

I wonder if this bar is the original Euro version the KO came with.

Schnell · « **Reply #19 on:** January 03, 2014, 11:50:51 AM »

Quote from: lucky on January 02, 2014, 03:13:14 PM

Quote from: Deltarider on January 02, 2014, 09:59:14 AM
The lower is a real motorcycle, the upper is... well, I don't know what. I guess it is an attempt to persuade people to ride that shouldn't. People that wanted a new toy or needed to sit up and beg. Could fat bellies be the reason?

When the bikes first came out there were no fat bellies.
There were no chain resuraunts.
Everyone had to serve in the military service.
There were no computers,no games and no big flat screen TV's.

Ahhh, the good old times, eh Lucky?
No Internet forums either.
Those were the days.

Maurice · « **Reply #20 on:** January 03, 2014, 11:59:56 AM »

Quote from: lucky on January 02, 2014, 03:13:14 PM

Quote from: Deltarider on January 02, 2014, 09:59:14 AM
The lower is a real motorcycle, the upper is... well, I don't know what. I guess it is an attempt to persuade people to ride that shouldn't. People that wanted a new toy or needed to sit up and beg. Could fat bellies be the reason?

When the bikes first came out there were no fat bellies.
There were no chain resuraunts.
Everyone had to serve in the military service.
There were no computers,no games and no big flat screen TV's.

Wait... The higher bars are what cause fat bellies?

A bit related, anyone know why some models had single front rotor while it seems its euro counterpart always had dual? Aesthetics? Fat bellies? Don't have any example off the top of my head but I seem to recall that cb750 in the 90s or early 2000s had dual front discs in Europe and US models (nighthawk?) single.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #21 on:** January 03, 2014, 12:59:21 PM »

As far as I am aware all our "sports" bikes had dual disks. It was usually customs like #$%*e...errr Nighthawks,CM etc. had singles and more often than not a drum rear.

Schnell · « **Reply #22 on:** January 03, 2014, 01:31:56 PM »

So when switching bars that require internal wiring routing, is it best to disconnect the hand controls ends, or the ends inside the headlight bucket and on the bikes frame?

HondanutRider · « **Reply #23 on:** January 03, 2014, 02:14:18 PM »

I'd first disconnect the wires at the bucket and then remove the bars with the controls still mounted (after first removing the mirrors, cables, and brake caliper). You might want to remove the grips while the bars are mounted. Then you can tackle disassembling and removing the switches with their wiring that routes through the bars.

nccb · « **Reply #24 on:** January 03, 2014, 02:28:50 PM »

What HondanutRider said. I accidentally twisted my wiring to much when trying to initially remove the throttle cables and broke a wire that I had to resolver to the starter button. Take your time and disconnect the throttle cables from the carbs before trying to remove them from the grip. Don't be a jackass like me

Sgt.Pinback · « **Reply #25 on:** January 04, 2014, 02:07:33 AM »

Quote from: nccb on January 02, 2014, 03:19:54 PM

SGT Pinback, those look tall for european style bars. Is the bike from Germany or US? I have no idea what Honda thought to make the bars so much higher except that the roads over here are a lot different (Longer and straighter) than those in Europe or Japan?

I just had look in my K0 "Fahrer-Handbuch" (owners manual).

The (my) German version came with that tall bar.

In the parts list there is only one bar listed for all K0´s and areas. From K1 onwards there were different bars for the areas.

Bailgang · « **Reply #26 on:** January 04, 2014, 03:08:09 AM »

Quote from: Schnell on January 03, 2014, 01:31:56 PM

So when switching bars that require internal wiring routing, is it best to disconnect the hand controls ends, or the ends inside the headlight bucket and on the bikes frame?

I've changed the bars on a couple bikes that had internal wiring in the bars and what I did was I numbered each wire and it's connection before I disconnected them in the bucket, it made sorting them out when it came time to wire them back up so much easier. Pulling the wires out of the old bars and into the new bars is a PITA but it's not a big deal so long as you're patient.

Deltarider · « **Reply #27 on:** January 04, 2014, 09:00:50 AM »

Pinback, could you please post us a picture of the small blinkers only you in Germany had?
They were my taste and had so much more style than the later ridiculous big ones.

Sgt.Pinback · « **Reply #28 on:** January 04, 2014, 09:30:51 AM »

My pleasure,

with "Hanomag" tail light and "egg cup" signals:

BTW delta,

you are collecting Kogas and Gazelle? Me vitus 979 and MOTOBECANE Profil3

Deltarider · « **Reply #29 on:** January 04, 2014, 10:59:22 AM »

Love the aerodynamic blinkers, the tractorlike rearlight is not exactly my taste.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #30 on:** January 04, 2014, 11:07:07 AM »

If the orange was shaved down to half the depth I would like them, as they are now, no.

Deltarider · « **Reply #31 on:** January 04, 2014, 11:27:23 AM »

Quote

If the orange was shaved down to half the depth

Yeah, would be nice, like: http://www.polo-motorrad.de/de/blinker-oem-honda-cb-750k6-style-gerundetes-gla.html
Polo has quite a collection.

Raul CB750K1 · « **Reply #32 on:** January 05, 2014, 06:52:56 AM »

FWIw, My 1971 K1 (General Export) has the very same handlebar than sgt. Pinback. I even dropped the bike a few years back and bought the very same through DSS. Pricey but originality doesn't come cheap.

I have a 1993 CB Seven Fifty (european version of the american Nighthawk) and I notice the difference very much when I switch from one to another. The Four has higher, wider handlebar. I should say that at the beginning it feels a little awkward, just like if you were riding a cruiser. The position doesn't call for "spirited riding" even when you know you can go fast with a 750. After some miles you forget about the riding position.

Never noticed anything wrong regarding the position until I got the Seven Fifty. Until then, the Four was, well, as perfect as it can be. For spirited riding I have the Seven Fifty; by now I will keep the Four stock, but I admit that an slightly lower and narrower handlebar would look great.

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #33 on:** January 05, 2014, 08:53:42 AM »

Thanks! hoping to put something like these on my 350f.

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Author Topic: U.S. Stock vs Euros (Read 5574 times)

fendersrule