Topic: Bolt at Bottom of Forks

[Tiek101]

I need some help.  I am trying to disassemble my fork (750K5) and the bolt on the bottom (damper rod bolt?) will not come out.  It was tight at first and I figured it was coming out but now it just turns and turns.  I cannot get the fork tube out of the lower leg.  ...any suggestions?  Thanks

[Gordon]

Put the spring and spring retaining bolt back in the top of the fork and try again.  Sometimes this will put enough pressure on the works to keep it from spinning while removing the lower bolt.  Others have suggested inserting a wood dowel into the top fork tube to acheive the same effect.  I've used an air-powered impact driver before with good results due to the speed it turns.

[Tiek101]

Thanks!  I'll give it a try.

[putnaja1]

I'm getting ready to tackle my forks as well..  When putting this bolt back in- do you just put the springs and caps back on, and use like a 3/8" impact gun to tighten the bolt?  Or the broomstick trick, and tighten to a specific torque?

Jason

[BobbyR]

You need the rounded end of a broom handle tapped ever so gently into the inner tube. I spun the thing till it was a blur. Tapped the broom handle in and it was out in seconds. You also use the handle when you tighten it up.

[Ernie]

its never a good idea to tighten any nuts or bolts with an impact gun, pneumatic or electric

[Tiek101]

I put the spring back in and it worked like a charm.  Thanks for the advice.  Looks like I need new fork tubes, they are pitted pretty bad.

[Gordon]

its never a good idea to tighten any nuts or bolts with an impact gun, pneumatic or electric

Good point, and thanks for saying it!

[jaknight]

     I have recently rebuilt my front forks.  I removed the complete fork/tube assembly and held the tube in a vise with leather padding.

     The bottom bolt came out easily by using an allen wrench by hand.  I also would never install/torque with a drill motor or pneumatic driver of any kind.  It is relatively easy by hand with an allen wrench.  With proper setup in a torque wrench, you can go for exact settings if you want.  Really tight by hand, it ain't gonna go anywhere.

     It's a fairly simple deal.  Make sure you have the new seals proper side up for installation.  Oil them before you install.  In fact, just be sure and oil up everything as you reassemble........

     ~ ~ ~ jaknight ~ ~ ~

[putnaja1]

its never a good idea to tighten any nuts or bolts with an impact gun, pneumatic or electric

Yes- You are right..     Of course, there are things you can get away with..

I honestly think you can get an accurate feel for air powered impact guns.  I used to get away with tightening with my 3/8" impact gun (air powered), because it wasn't super strong to begin with, and you can adjust the strength too..  I'd always start bolts by hand, then give it a quick blast of air just to zip the bolt all the way in (but not to tighten), then I teeny tiny blip (maybe two or three impact hammer hits) to tighten.  This method was varied by application too..  I was able to consistenty tighten things like the pump into an automatic transimission, valve covers, etc. after I "learned"..  I rung off a lot of bolts before I learned!  :-) 

It's been a lot of years though- probably best I am no longer in the shops, and I don't have a home compressor!

[dpen]

I too have found that you can accurately tighten things with a rattle gun.

Of course it took me the first five years of my trade to almost perfect it.

If you ain't a top mechanic - don't risk it.

[dusterdude]

its never a good idea to tighten any nuts or bolts with an impact gun, pneumatic or electric

huh?

[750k5]

The correct method to remove the allen head is to use your impact tool.  Get an allen head to fit it, and fully assembled turn the fork over, and give the impact a rap with the hammer, and it will come loose..