Topic: 1st time chain rivet. Anyone with experience?

[grasscutter]

After having replaced countless chains over the last 20+ yrs, I've always used the clip link style, due to not having a rivet tool.

Decided to by one and start using rivet style chains from now on.

Bike is one of my 1982 CB650's.
Bought an RK 530 x-ring, which had a hollow nose master link included.
Those of you who use rivet style chains will know what I'm talking about.
The 2 choices are solid nose or hollow nose masters.

The tool I bought was the basic Motion Pro PBR.
Instructions were straight forward.  Chain went together easily. 
Riveting went good.  I think...

So here's my question:
-Based on the pics, did I mushroom the hollow nose rivet enough?
There are no guidelines exactly stating how much to mushroom it. 
**And on my last torque down of the tool, the handle snapped off. 

Appreciate feedback from those of you who use Rivet chains and Rivet tools.

[andrewk]

Looks adequate to me.  I hate that damn tool.  Bought the DID one last year, never looking back.   The idea is to rivet it enough to press the side plate into the o-ring but not so tight it binds.

[onepieceatatime]

I have only done one, but it looks good from here. I broke the pin on my tool (one without a brand mark), contacted the seller, and they sent a new pin.

[flybox1]

Looks good, and probably is good if there is no binding at that link(smooth movement)
I hate rivet tools. It's such a fine line between good and to friggin tight you have to get a new rivet

[grasscutter]

Appreciate the feedback.
Yes, that's the parameters I used as well.
Kept checking it, and when I was done, it flexed smoothly with no binding.

Thanks for the suggestion on the DID brand.
I'll look into it.

[nccb]

When I did mine, I was checking to make sure the master link was the same thickness as the others.

[Johnie]

I do all my x-ring masters with the rivet flairing tool. Yours looks good. Did you put the spacer in between the links before you flared it? Hope so...

[grcamna2]

It's easy enough to go too far on the flaring;once the flare is created,there's No way that side plate'll come off...even a small flare works just fine.

[PeWe]

The rivets look OK, plate cannot jump off which is most important.
Hollow rivet links easier than solid. I know since I bought a very good chain, DC 530 X-link Gold with solid link...VERY solid! I broke one cheap tool (DID copy) when trying to rivet it.

I found out later that one of the only toolss to use is a WHALE riveting tool with which you have to hammer the solid rivet which will look exact as the other riveted links. I bought the complete set with cutting and riveting solid links AND add-on tool for hollow links just for sure.

http://www.kawaschrauber.de/shop/product_info.php?pName=whale-chain-cutter-kettenwerkzeug-ketten-trenn-und-niet-werkzeug-520er-bis-532er-kettenteilung-f%FCr-vollnieten

[Black 750K8]

After having replaced countless chains over the last 20+ yrs, I've always used the clip link style, due to not having a rivet tool.

Decided to by one and start using rivet style chains from now on.

Bike is one of my 1982 CB650's.
Bought an RK 530 x-ring, which had a hollow nose master link included.
Those of you who use rivet style chains will know what I'm talking about.
The 2 choices are solid nose or hollow nose masters.

The tool I bought was the basic Motion Pro PBR.
Instructions were straight forward.  Chain went together easily. 
Riveting went good.  I think...

So here's my question:
-Based on the pics, did I mushroom the hollow nose rivet enough?
There are no guidelines exactly stating how much to mushroom it. 
**And on my last torque down of the tool, the handle snapped off. 

Appreciate feedback from those of you who use Rivet chains and Rivet tools.

Why did you change? Did you have a clip master fail from no fault of your own? If you have a flat do you want to go through all the extra steps to change your tire on the side of the road at 2am? I have used the clip style sense 1967 never have I had one fail on me. Can you tell I like the clip style better I just don't see any reason to change. Now I have that said it looks like your press is good enough but no matter how many people say yes you will have it on your mind going down the road. Not so with the clip that you have used over 20 years.

[andrewk]

You can remove the rear wheel with the chain intact, even with the chain guard on still, with the bike on the center stand.  Just did one yesterday.

I have no qualms with the clip style- I've lost a clip twice (once was my fault, once wasnt) but they're an adequate design.  I went with the rivet style because that's what the best chains are using.  I appreciate not needing a chain adjustment every 500 miles more than the ability to unclip the chain I guess.

[Johnie]

Correct, you can get the tire off with the chain intact. I went with the solid because I had a brand new clip break in half while snapping it in place. Also saw posts from guys who lost a clip while riding...not safe. Not saying the clips are bad...just I feel better with the solid link.

[grcamna2]

grasscutter,I like the rivet style for heavy & hard performance riding(dragstrip,etc.) and I think you can get by very nicely with the Quality master links w/ clip style that're being provided in the RK & some D.i.D. O-Ring chains,it all depends on the fit of the side plate.
The newer style Quality O-Ring chains w/ clip type masters should have a strong press fit side plate in the master link that you need a tool like you've bought to install it(just like your rivet style style master link side plate)correctly before you install the clip;are you able to fit an O-ring chain with it's extra width in your model ?

[grasscutter]

Agreed. 
Not being able to change a tire with a solid chain is an often quoted misconception!
People forget bikes come from factory with solid chains.

What are you guys taking about with a 'clip plate' used with the master plate?
Or something or other...

I used all the parts the RK chain came with.
I followed the order in which the diagram showed them to be pressed together upon install.
Install went smooth.

Can you all enlighten me on this 'mystery plate'??

[grcamna2]

grasscutter,
do you mean my wording 'press fit side plate' ?

[74750k4]

Before you press the plates together with the rivet, measure the other plates first with your caliper (and a cheap one will work). Get an idea how close you are getting, before you over do it.

[grcamna2]

+1

[Johnie]

Here is a pic of the "press fit side plates" for you. You slide them in between the rollers so you do not go to far and crush the o-rings. They used to come with the rivet plate, but I see my new x-ring chain does not have them. Must be a way to cut back cost. I happen to have an extra set I saved here. You can just measure and fit it without the plates like k4 mentioned.

[CrankyOldGuy]

You can remove the rear wheel with the chain intact, even with the chain guard on still, with the bike on the center stand.  Just did one yesterday.

I have no qualms with the clip style- I've lost a clip twice (once was my fault, once wasnt) but they're an adequate design.  I went with the rivet style because that's what the best chains are using.  I appreciate not needing a chain adjustment every 500 miles more than the ability to unclip the chain I guess.

I am not understanding this part  .... if you have a rivet style .... "appreciate not needing a chain adjustment every 500 miles ... ".  How does this work?

Harry O.

[andrewk]

The extended period between chain adjustments is a function of the o or x-ring type chain, not the master link style.

I was only saying that I wanted a good HD chain, and they all use rivet style master links, so it's a concession I was willing to make.  An o or x-ring chain with a clip style master link will also not need adjustment as often.