Topic: Swing arm bushing, cap, dust seal etc.

[mcswny]

I ordered some new Bronze swing arm bushings and plan to install this weekend. Should I plan on getting the other bits that hold them in? Numbers 14, 10, and 13 on the fiche provided? Or is it not necessary?

[70CB750]

You could reuse old ones - or if your new bushing is the flange type, not use them at all.

[mcswny]

You could reuse old ones - or if your new bushing is the flange type, not use them at all.

I got the non-Flange bushings for my K2. But can you use the flanged ones on a K2 without any additional machining?

And is there a quality/longevity difference between he flanged and non flanged?

[70CB750]

I used flanged bushings on F arm in K3 frame - the dimension was the same for all of them - there was little too much play between the frame and swing arm, so I used washers and after tightening it is perfect.

Lot of it depends on bushing's flange, they are all made within some tolerances.  It all goes together with some play - tightening the central bolt will eliminate the play, that's how it was designed, but the play should be minimal.

[Schnell]

10 and 13 will probably be reuseable, 14 will deteriorate upon removal. It's a felt dust seal. You could make your own.

[mcswny]

Thanks for the help guys.

[Schnell]

If you find part #10 unusable, I can mail you my old ones because I switched to the top hat style bushings and didn't need that part.

[mcswny]

If you find part #10 unusable, I can mail you my old ones because I switched to the top hat style bushings and didn't need that part.

Thanks Frank, I ordered the non-flange ones last night. However, I want the flanged ones out of simplicity sake. So I emailed to see if I can switch my order, if it doesnt go through and I need the felts, I'll PM you. Thanks.

tim

[mcswny]

Ooof this may be a stupid question but I've been searching and I can't seem to find the answer (I've only had 1 beverage I swear!) But do you have to take the exhaust off to remove the swing arm (cb750K2)

[Schnell]

I didn't, but I don't have original mufflers. Mine are low and out of the way enough. Original exhaust would probably be in the way. To reinstall the swing arm, I had to get my head under the rear fender. I had to remove the rear shocks. Maybe if your bike is up on a lift, you can work from underneath.

[mcswny]

I didn't, but I don't have original mufflers. Mine are low and out of the way enough. Original exhaust would probably be in the way. To reinstall the swing arm, I had to get my head under the rear fender. I had to remove the rear shocks. Maybe if your bike is up on a lift, you can work from underneath.

I have a lift, but I also have HM300s so I'll probably just take the exhaust off to make it a bit easier.

[mcswny]

I used flanged bushings on F arm in K3 frame - the dimension was the same for all of them - there was little too much play between the frame and swing arm, so I used washers and after tightening it is perfect.

Lot of it depends on bushing's flange, they are all made within some tolerances.  It all goes together with some play - tightening the central bolt will eliminate the play, that's how it was designed, but the play should be minimal.

Hey 70CB750, you jus use regular old HW washers? Just want to pick some up in case there's some play. Any particular thickness?

Got my swing arm off and cleaned tonight. Getting the old bushings off is next (fun!). And the new bushings should be here Friday. Hopefully riding by this weekend.

[70CB750]

I have a bin full of washers, I went through few till it felt right.  I wanted the swingarm to slide in with minimum play - not to force it in. 

[Schnell]

Loosening the nuts that hold the foot pegs on (is that the rear motor mount too?) eased the installation for me.

I would advise the purchase of the flanged bushings because of the ease of installation. Just bang them in until they seat. With the plain unflanged ones, you have to get them in to a specific depth. Even with heating the swing arm and freezing the bushings, I had to use a 4lb hammer to get the bushings in. I can't imagine having to set them to a certain depth. What happens if one goes in too far?

[70CB750]

Here is an easy way to do it:

[mcswny]

Loosening the nuts that hold the foot pegs on (is that the rear motor mount too?) eased the installation for me.

I would advise the purchase of the flanged bushings because of the ease of installation. Just bang them in until they seat. With the plain unflanged ones, you have to get them in to a specific depth. Even with heating the swing arm and freezing the bushings, I had to use a 4lb hammer to get the bushings in. I can't imagine having to set them to a certain depth. What happens if one goes in too far?

I ended up getting the flanged ones, which is good because the felt washers are toast. I got everything off last night. And am going to give taking out the old bushings a go tonight. Getting the depth right in the non flanged ones was what I was worried about

[mcswny]

Here is an easy way to do it:

Good idea, thanks!

[slikwilli420]

Im using a repro Dresda swingarm and noticed that with cups/seals, it is way too tight in the frame. My arm does have the flanged bronze bushings. Is there no concern about leaving those dust caps off with dust/dirt/road grime? If I can just space them on either side evenly to get the slack out, that would be much easier than having dust cups made or finding a replacement that works properly.

[mcswny]

Im using a repro Dresda swingarm and noticed that with cups/seals, it is way too tight in the frame. My arm does have the flanged bronze bushings. Is there no concern about leaving those dust caps off with dust/dirt/road grime? If I can just space them on either side evenly to get the slack out, that would be much easier than having dust cups made or finding a replacement that works properly.

I'm sorry, I'm not the best to help you with this probably. Maybe someone else can chime in?

[mcswny]

Loosening the nuts that hold the foot pegs on (is that the rear motor mount too?) eased the installation for me.

I would advise the purchase of the flanged bushings because of the ease of installation. Just bang them in until they seat. With the plain unflanged ones, you have to get them in to a specific depth. Even with heating the swing arm and freezing the bushings, I had to use a 4lb hammer to get the bushings in. I can't imagine having to set them to a certain depth. What happens if one goes in too far?

So when I was installing my collared ones I noticed there is a little ridge on the inside of the swing arm which I assume could catch and seat the non-collared bushings at their correct depth so there's no 4lb hammer guess work.

I had to have my fiancé hold the swing arm as I wailed on it with my rubber mallet.