Topic: have my rear wheel bearings been replaced? Pics in last post

[pjwalsh]

Hi all,

I am just about to replace my rear wheel bearings due to them failing after apparently being replaced a year and a half ago by my local mechanic. I could be wrong but to me it looks like the retainer has not been removed before.

What do you guys think, has it been removed or am I just being worried over nothing?

Thanks all,

Pat

 

[drjeffreys]

i do remember the factory dimples being alot cleaner than that. I drilled mine out slightly, and after somehow got them to lineup again upon tightening and re-punched them.

[bjbuchanan]

Nah, he didn't replace that outer one. Too clean and clearly isn't oversized punch holes you would recognize if you have done the job yourself.

 He probably replaced the inners with the collar setup, if anything was done. The rear wheel has that third bearing and dust seal attached to that outer retainer

[Bodi]

It's been a long winter without seeing any wheels: did the factory do 4 punches? I remember 2.
The retainer drive slots look very clean... but with the right tool there's very little damage done removing and reinstalling it. Certainly none I've done using home-made drivers look that new.
So change the bearing - you'll be happier knowing for sure it's new. If the old one is sealed only on the outside it's probably original, few would remove the inside seals when putting new bearings in. Are you sure the opposite bearing is new?

[pjwalsh]

Then im guessing nothing was done at all and i was charged for it, i only had the wheel down at a different work shop to have the sprocket hub bearing replaced. I asked them what they thought of the inner bearings as i thought they felt rough when i turned them with my finger but they said they were ok.

Ill be replacing them for sure, thanks fellas!

[jpfrk2001]

Im going to piggy back in this thread. I have a question.

I tried removing my retainer, and it does NOT want to come loose. I then read about the punched dimples. I have to look at mine again and see if mine are that way.

Came from a 1978 CB550K

How tight are these retainers from the factory? Any tips or tricks?

[Johnie]

Mine had 4 dimples. Looks like yours were not moved. Retainers can be a bugger to remove if you do not use a proper tool to bite the recess. I have used a large screwdriver and hammer to break it loose, but you have to be careful or you will mess up the slots trying to get it off without a tool. Do a retainer search and you will see what some guys use for a tool.

[bjbuchanan]

From home depot get a 3$ thing of 3/8" flat stock. Harbor freight or the like, a 5mm bolt, short. Drill holes in the stock. If you think ahead you can have a front and rear in one tool, end for end.

 Retainer usually have 4 dimples, use 1/8 drill bit and just get down in a bit, not super precise.

 I replaced the outer seal but it was a real pain in the d!ck. Rammed an awl in there to budge it up

[Puntas13]

If you do it the right way it will look unmolested.

[bjbuchanan]

If you do it the right way it will look unmolested.

Disagree. It won't look hacked but you can definitely tell someone was there. My peens are now 50% larger than stock just due to having to drill them out initially for removal, definitely not stock AND done the 'right' way

[pjwalsh]

I have been a bit slow with the removal of the bearings as I was waiting on the bearing retainer socket to arrive.

Anyway I have had to bend the tangs on the bearing spacer to get the bearings out and I'm not sure if I will need to get a new one or if I'm able to reuse the slightly mangled old one.

What are your thoughts on the spacer and can anyone confirm weather these are the original bearings that were supposedly replaced, because to me they look very old and the fact that the spacer had been untouched also tells me that these were not replaced and I was charged for it.

I will post some pics when I figure out how to get them off my new phone!

Thanks Gents,

Pat 

[Johnie]

Those are the original bearings. Same as the ones in all of my 750's that I replaced. So he was pulling your leg. You will get sealed bearings now. Those tangs need to be carefully bent back and you will be fine. That is standard practice with those.

[pjwalsh]

I think I might have bent them too far. The tangs wont stay in place now so will the tangs now just rattle around in side the hub? Should I just get a new one and be done with it?

I think I will be going down to the work shop and questioning them about there lack of professionalism and taking my money for something they didn't do!

Thanks Johnie
 

[bjbuchanan]

Don't get a new collar, just bend the tangs as close to regular as possible. The way the bearing stack works is that the inner part of the bearing will be squished to that collar on both sides. The wheel rotates on the outer portion of the bearings when put back together

With the whole thing together, you tap the bearing so that it just starts to squish that collar. I take a medium sized flat head screwdriver and see if I can get the collar to shift just a little with some pressure. You don't want it cranked down and you don't want it rattling. Not exactly precise but that is how its done.

Try peening the tang ring to the end of the collar. I had the issue with my front wheel. A not so gentle tap and the ring sorta stays in place. In the wheel it won't matter anyway, they just help to locate the collar when doing the job. My trick is to put the axle in so it is up facing you. Put the collar in, then tap in to place (using the old bearing) the new floating bearing so it just gently traps the collar.

[pjwalsh]

Thanks BJ

[pjwalsh]

Hey BJ its not the collar is I'm worried about it is the tang ring. The tang ring won't sit fast a the end of the collar, won't this just end up floating around inside the hub and creating an annoying noise?

[Dunk]

Doubtful, but if you can't get the whole ring with the 3 tangs to stay put at the end of the collar... I'd try using a punch on the part that sits around the collar and see if it stays. If not a dab of superglue or epoxy should keep it in place. If the tangs are bent out to be touching the inside of the wheel hub I doubt it'd move around anyhow, or if you'd even hear it over the exhaust, road noise, etc...

[pjwalsh]

Cool, sounds good to me. Thanks for the help fellas!

[Tews19]

I'm doing the same thing right now on my K1. Do you need the rings at each end? The part with the 3 prongs? 

Btw. Original bearings. I would bring the bearings and wheel down there when you go. Demand a refund. That is ridiculous for them to attempt to get one over on you. For all you know those bearings could have failed while riding and someone may have been seriously injured....

[pjwalsh]

I've been thinking thinking the same thing Tews, I'll be re using mine as I assume it is to stop the bearings from being pressed to far into the hub. I'll be calling the workshop tomorrow to see what they say about it!

[Johnie]

I would not call up the shop, but stop in with those bearings. Let them know if they had changed them they would have been the sealed not these old unsealed bearings.