Author Topic: 1977 CB750k restore project (Read 34080 times)

mkoski · « **Reply #150 on:** May 11, 2015, 08:51:53 AM »

You are missing the oring in there, I would bet. She's really tiny, most people dont realize there is one in there.

dgilling · « **Reply #151 on:** May 11, 2015, 08:56:58 AM »

does that come with removing the screw? All I did to the carbs was remove the bowl and clean up the varnish and gum. there wasn't much since did a full rebuild a few years ago. could I have misplaced the oring that you speak off by removing the bowl?

mkoski · « **Reply #152 on:** May 11, 2015, 09:03:04 AM »

When I pulled my air screws out they stayed inside the hole. I would say pull your carbs off the bike, unscrew the screws and use a light to look inside the hole. If you cant see an oring in there, you will need to add them. If you can see an oring, get a piece of wire and pull it out for inspection. Realistically, you are going to need to get all new orings for those little guys if you want to stop leaks, I think

Davez134 · « **Reply #153 on:** May 11, 2015, 09:11:30 AM »

As far as the paint goes, did you heat cure it? As soon as you fix that leak, scuff and re spray that area. Then let the engine run/heat up and cool down a few times, making sure nothing spills on it. I use vht spray engine enamel, and the heat curing makes all the difference.

dgilling · « **Reply #154 on:** May 11, 2015, 09:42:38 AM »

Quote from: Davez134 on May 11, 2015, 09:11:30 AM

As far as the paint goes, did you heat cure it? As soon as you fix that leak, scuff and re spray that area. Then let the engine run/heat up and cool down a few times, making sure nothing spills on it. I use vht spray engine enamel, and the heat curing makes all the difference.

I didn't heat cure it. but I shot the paint months ago. I was hoping the engine heat would help with that but the carbs leaked right away.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #155 on:** May 11, 2015, 11:00:16 AM »

Heat curing (from running) helps cure over time, but baking (or hot boxing) before assembly helps harden the paint before it is subjected to chemicals, etc.

Powdercoat is more resistant to chemicals such as gasoline, but you are past that now since the engine is assembled.

dgilling · « **Reply #156 on:** May 12, 2015, 09:05:50 AM »

I'm such an idiot. I didn't tighten the bowls all the way. I guess after turning a couple hundred bolts you might miss one or two.

After I did that the leak basically vanished. however I could still see what appeared to be a very minor tear drop of gas forming on the same place.
I put the carbs in a bucket and turned gas on to them. This is the leak that I saw forming when it was on the bike and running too (after I fixed my main problem). I ordered an Oring kit, so I guess I'll open all of them up and replace them. I'm hesitant to do #1, 2, and 4 since they seem fine. last time I replaced them was about 5 years ago.

You can see the gas forming in tear drop fashion. it moves very slowly but still something I'd like to fix.

I pulled the carbs and started sanding. It didn't eat through the primer so I think I'll just sand and clean the best I can and reshoot on top of that. When I was sanding the paint acted like it had a good bond. Flybox and few other forum members were saying to use acetone, take it all the way down, and re-primer/paint to remove any toxins or reasons why the paint didn't have a good bond. I just don't think I want to do that. I feel like it would probably be the same outcome either way. Hopefully, I'll get some new paint on top of this stuff, run the motor, heat up the paint and get a better cure. Oh, and fix my leaky carbs.

calj737 · « **Reply #157 on:** May 12, 2015, 09:14:43 AM »

wipe down with Denatured Alcohol and repaint. No need to remove the primer.

dgilling · « **Reply #158 on:** May 13, 2015, 07:57:03 AM »

I got everything masked off and painted. Overall it wasn't that bad and didn't cost me too much extra time. the paint looks descent. There's no lines where I masked off which is good. i got a little bit of a splatter blast towards the end that is visible but over all no one will ever see it.

Now, install new orings in carbs, put everything back on, and heat that engine up to really cure the paint.

I'm basically waiting on the following before i can call it done.

I need to install the chain and remove some links, i don't have a tool to do that.
I need to weld the rear fender (will do that over memorial weekend with my Pops)
Cut front fender
Sand and paint both fenders
Install new seat, still waiting on the kit to come in from Vietnam.
add DOT fluid and bleed front brake.

After that I ride into the sunset.

dgilling · « **Reply #159 on:** May 13, 2015, 07:58:03 AM »

forgot the pics.

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #160 on:** May 13, 2015, 08:09:41 AM »

Quote from: dgilling on May 04, 2015, 09:26:11 AM

Does the brake hard line run on the inside or outside of the fender?

Did you get the hard line from the caliper corrected? It should look like this:

dgilling · « **Reply #161 on:** May 13, 2015, 10:51:10 AM »

Quote from: madmtnmotors on May 13, 2015, 08:09:41 AM

Quote from: dgilling on May 04, 2015, 09:26:11 AM

Does the brake hard line run on the inside or outside of the fender?

Did you get the hard line from the caliper corrected? It should look like this:

I did not move it yet but this info is extremely helpful. Thank you very much for the reply. I'm going to look at this tonight. One of my problems is I had to move the brake switch up to clear my headlight bracket. That changed the angle on the hose. Hopefully everything still works close to the same.

dgilling · « **Reply #162 on:** May 16, 2015, 11:59:57 PM »

this had to have been leaking because there was gas up in the hole

Found another source of the leak

Well I tried to avoid this but it had to happen. replaced all the orings from a kit.

And everything reinstalled and did a quick start to look for leaks. didn't see anything but I need to run it some more.

Snapped this off trying to get the hose off that hondaman gave me. I thought he said 5mm hose is stock size but it was super tight. it went on but, was obviously hard to get off. What size does every one else run?

Got the chain installed but didn't Measure twice, cut once. Miscalculated and cut too short. Anyone need a DID 530 chain with 102 links on the cheap?

about 3/4in of slack. Super tight.

dgilling · « **Reply #163 on:** May 19, 2015, 08:26:40 AM »

well the bad luck is increasing as we get so close to the finish line. I finally got my seat in from Vietnam (motorcycleseatsdirect.com) and he sent the wrong color.

I made a special request for black and it came in brown. in his defense he was very responsive and is sending a new one right away but it still has to come from overseas. I placed my first order on April 7th and got it yesterday. The quality looks good but the time frame is rough.

I'm hesitant to take the nice new leather and poke a bunch of holes in it but I guess the stock was done that way. I think I might need to put some 3m spray glue down too but he said I shouldn't have too. At least I have one to practice with unless someone wants a brown cover on the cheap??

I also got my ikon shocks in yesterday, and both of the lower shock bolt threads are stripped!! My stock bolt is in great shape (M10, 1.25) and won't thread at all. Instructions say to use the stock bolt. I tried other bolts with different thread patterns and none seem to work. I didn't force anything but looks like if I want to use my stock bolts I'll have to re-tap them myself. Really disappointed in IKON. I thought they would have been higher quality than that, that's why I went with them.

dgilling · « **Reply #164 on:** May 26, 2015, 09:40:44 AM »

I finally got out to my dad's house to do some welding on the rear fender. I pretty much destroyed the top part trying to remove it from the fender so we just welded two tabs on there. This made more sense for me too since my dad lives 6hrs away from the motorcycle. This gives me room to not be exact and I can fix it when I get home.

I got the original side plates off in pretty good shape and welded those on the chopped fender.

I chopped the front fender. things came out pretty good.

sanded and bondo for the fenders, now I can paint when I get home.

This is what the fender will look like mounted. We also made little brackets to hold the turn signals. Ignore the brown seat cover... I ordered black but it came brown and I'm waiting for the black to show up.

Front fender should look pretty good. I wish I would have cut it even on both sides but oh well.

I got my Ikon shocks in and I have to say i'm a little disappointed. Both mounting holes were stripped. Dave from Ikon mailed me a correct tap and I got them mounted but I thought I was buying a super quality shock... didn't really expect to have to tap things to make them work. shock also had some rust and chipped chrome. Overall, I'm sure I'll be super happy with the shock but I was disappointed in that.

the springs are really the only thing on the bike that is gloss black. I wanted the chrome but didn't want to spend the extra coin.

I got my new chain in after cutting the last one too short. I bought a 106 diamond chain. the shorter chain is absolutely too short. the 106 is absolutely too long. so does that mean I can only run a 104 length? seems like you should be able to run at least two sizes.

slack with 106 chain. swing arm is bottomed out all the way back.

This is with the 102 chain. It was so hard to get on and had about 1/2 of slack.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #165 on:** May 26, 2015, 09:59:55 AM »

I'm surprised on the quality control issues on the IKONS. I've had mine for about 5-6 years and they've held up well. They should be better.

dgilling · « **Reply #166 on:** May 28, 2015, 03:49:42 PM »

I replaced my petcock last night. the gasket was almost completely corroded away. Overall I say the filter looked pretty good for being close to 40 years old. There was some particles caught in the filter and it was really hard to get out because it had hardened and got stuck. I cut the bottom with a razor and pried it out piece by piece. New one sealed up fine with no issues.

I started the bike for a good length of time as well. seems to idle and run great. No leaks showing at carbs either.

Got the new chain installed. I'm a little concerned that the chain doesn't track straight. It seems to want to shift off the sprockets but I feel like the wheel is straight. How do I make sure the chain is tracking straight and what is my tolerance for this?

This weekend gotta get the fenders primered and painted. then I can install them add brake fluid and basically call it done till I get my other seat cover in.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #167 on:** May 29, 2015, 05:28:23 AM »

Looks like things are really beginning to come together.

dgilling · « **Reply #168 on:** May 29, 2015, 07:27:33 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on May 29, 2015, 05:28:23 AM

Looks like things are really beginning to come together.

Home stretch now. Bleed the front brake last night. All that's real left is fender paint and install.

dgilling · « **Reply #169 on:** June 04, 2015, 09:28:03 AM »

Getting super close. Here's a sneak peak. obviously still waiting on the black seat cover. I got the fenders painted last night and will install them with the rear turn signals and the tail light. After that it's pretty much done. I'm still dealing with some chain alignment issues, and I need to do a once over on all the bolts to check the torque specs, grease the zerts on the swing arm, and sync the carbs. Hondaman said to wait though till after brake in to sync.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #170 on:** June 04, 2015, 10:00:20 AM »

Sweet. Definitely excited to see it with the fenders to give it that finished look. Congrats.

dgilling · « **Reply #171 on:** June 04, 2015, 10:30:10 AM »

The fenders really make the seat look better. I was kind of bummed on the seat appearance but after I put the rear fender on it looked much more even. I still think that if I was to do it over I would have chopped the frame and ran a smaller flatter seat.

When I get the black seat cover in I'll take it out and get some really nice pictures.

dgilling · « **Reply #172 on:** June 05, 2015, 09:14:17 AM »

I installed the painted fenders. forgot pics of the front though. The front looked off-centered. I couldn't tell if it was the wheel or the fender but I'm assuming the fender. I couldn't find the normal rubber grommet and collar hardware so I'm assuming that's what is pulling the fender to the non drive side. I just installed it with normal bolts and larger washers.

Here's the rear fender. I used the stock mounting holes for the tail light, they just happen to line up.

the Hot Rod black is a really hard color to shoot the same color at different times. Things came out a really good match to the tank.

I can't wait to get the black seat in and wrap the cover tighter. I'm not a super fan of the seat look casue the pan is so big and hangs over everything. I wish it was closer to the same width as the frame. Things are basically done at this point though. I'll mess with the chain alignment some but will probably take it for her first spin today if it quits raining.

AintNoEasyWay · « **Reply #173 on:** June 05, 2015, 09:31:41 AM »

Nice. Think you'll eventually change the seat after you spend some time riding?

dgilling · « **Reply #174 on:** June 05, 2015, 11:07:12 AM »

Quote from: AintNoEasyWay on June 05, 2015, 09:31:41 AM

Nice. Think you'll eventually change the seat after you spend some time riding?

Probably not. I might if I could bolt on a different seat pan to the original mounts. But I'll probably just ride it like that for a long time. Overall, the seat is comfortable, fits a passenger (which doesn't happen much), and will probably look slightly better with the black.

More ride, less wrench. The overall goal of the rebuild was "just better". I think I achieved that and I'll just ride it now. It isn't, and doesn't have to be perfect.

News:

Author Topic: 1977 CB750k restore project (Read 34080 times)