Topic: MLS gasket

[bert96]

 I'm in the process of rebuilding my 750 K4.I want to install an MLS gasket and i would like to know what is ''the things''to do.I know i have to install it dry but other than that...so please,if you can help me...


Bert

[Don R]

They seal well to a smooth surface and remove relatively easy. I've even reused them on my 567cid big block drag engine. Multi layers of steel sandwiched with a coating of some sort.

[mcswny]

I used a Cycle X MLS gasket on my rebuild this winter with stock studs. They say you don't need to re-torque after like with other composite gaskets but after 500 miles I had a down weekend and decided to pull the engine and re-torque just to be cautious and I found I was able to snug the bolts down a little bit more to get them to spec. Rather be safe than sorry I guess. But 1500 miles later, dry as a bone.

FYI I installed COMPLETELY dry.

[iron_worker]

Ken at Cycle X told me they seal well and don't require a re-torque but the surface *has* to be flat. Have your head and cylinders machined to be sure. He also said you don't need to run the 8 smaller dowels on the oil return holes or the rubber packing. Only the 2 alignment dowels are required (on the outside corners) and of course the o-rings on the oil feed ports. The gasket has built in raised edged around all the cylinders and oil ports that should act like an o-ring when compressed. He did also say to install dry.

Last year mine leaked but when I tore it apart I found it was because my sleeves had shifted when I had a new sleeve pressed in (due to gouging one ...  ). This winter I had it machined flat again and put it all together. So far no leaks but I don't have a lot of miles on it yet. I'm much more confident this time though. lol

IW

[mcswny]

Ken at Cycle X told me they seal well and don't require a re-torque but the surface *has* to be flat. Have your head and cylinders machined to be sure. He also said you don't need to run the 8 smaller dowels on the oil return holes or the rubber packing. Only the 2 alignment dowels are required (on the outside corners) and of course the o-rings on the oil feed ports. The gasket has built in raised edged around all the cylinders and oil ports that should act like an o-ring when compressed. He did also say to install dry.

Last year mine leaked but when I tore it apart I found it was because my sleeves had shifted when I had a new sleeve pressed in (due to gouging one ...  ). This winter I had it machined flat again and put it all together. So far no leaks but I don't have a lot of miles on it yet. I'm much more confident this time though. lol

IW

Was told the same thing, just had a free weekend and also wanted to time-sert the rocker shaft bolt holes (2 of mine stripped and in a rush still threw the engine together because i wanted to ride)

[andrewk]

If you have the head and cylinders surfaced, be sure to check alignment dowel fitment, and make sure the head will sit all the way down.

I'd also save some extra $$ and do cylinder studs/nuts at the same time.  The extra few ft-lbs don't make much difference, but the higher tensile strength does.  Stock studs are -just- adequate, IMO.

[bert96]

Thanks guys for all your responds.

Bert

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